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Code 212, IDM & ground issue

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Old Jan 22, 2007 | 12:13 PM
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Code 212, 212= Loss of IDM input to EEC or spout circuit grounded.

Anyone have any ideas where to start ? 4.0. 185k. I think I've changed the plugs twice, MAF @ 120k, just did the alternator.
Reading all the different posts. I'm thinking. Plugs, plug wires, 02 sensor and TPS. Then see if I still get any codes.
Oh yeah I'll see if I have any corrision on the ICM harness connection.
 

Last edited by ckutter; Jan 22, 2007 at 12:27 PM.
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Old Jan 28, 2007 | 07:58 AM
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Well the connector looked brand new. Still had Dielectric in it.
I picked up the tune up stuff yesterday. Plus a PCV valve. But come to find out NAPA has a gadget to test the ICM. Takes about 5 minutes to run a stress test and give a print out.
I assume this will tell me if the tach lead in the ICM (IDM) is dead.
Where abouts would I find the spout connector on my 95 4.0 AWD ?
 
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Old Jan 28, 2007 | 11:37 PM
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Well I found the spout gadget. Cleaned it out and taped it back up.
But I broke the #6 plug trying to take it out. . Dandy. That took and extra hour.
But the new plug wires look nice and tidy.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2007 | 02:23 AM
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also check and clean plug and socket on ECU/PCM mounted upper left firewall behind master cylinder vac. brake booster....clean with electrical spray and coat contacts with silicone dielectric grease or silicone spray.....these often get water leaks down from outside vent grille

first pull ICM and have tested
if OK then obtain a Ford Service manual or Service CD with the EVTM electrical vacuum tech manual section and troubleshoot ICM wiring to PCM for shorts to ground and intermittent opens...the wiring cable between ICM and PCM has a braided grounded shield-if cable becomes physically damaged crushed worn thru the shield can ground the wiring circuits 335 & 253

the spout is circuit 325 between ICM and PCM
 
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Old Jan 29, 2007 | 11:37 AM
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Well it tested out OK. Tach signal good. The only thing out of spec a little was the Coil Peak Voltage #1, 327v, #2, 310v & #3, 327v. The test spec is >273v.

What does mean. The spark plugs still looked good. But gapped way over .065.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2007 | 11:42 AM
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Another thing. My plug wires didn't match the diagram in the Chilton Manual. They match the opposing cylinder like the diagram. But not the same order.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2007 | 02:21 PM
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what year 4.0L? i'll check my ford service cds...you want fig 2-35 for 4.0L V6 OHV....the wires 1<>5, 4<>3, 2<>6 can be switched and engine will still run fine due to opposing 2 plug firing of Ford 4.0L OHV EDIS system....people either mix up engine cyl. orientation or ICM/coil pack orientation...actual fixed firing order of engine crank piston configuration, PCM and ICM/coilpack is 1>4>2>5>3>6 and cannot be changed by owner/used, hard programmed in PCM

i would correct the spark plug wiring now, makes future troubleshooting easier when the mixup has been forgotten
can really confuse troubleshooting on EEC-V OBDII '96 and newer systems that can tell one which cyl. or plug is not running correctly

the ICM is good...
is your engine/van having any driveability problems? or is it only the intermittent code and CEL?

are the plugs Motorcraft or Autolite double plats and how many miles on them? are the plug wires Motorcraft? how old?

use plenty of dielectric grease on all plug wire connectors...use antiseize grease on plug threads and O2 sensor threads
 

Last edited by 96_4wdr; Jan 29, 2007 at 02:28 PM.
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Old Jan 29, 2007 | 03:58 PM
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1995 4.0 AWD. I have the CD. The plugs had probably 120k miles. Same as the plug wires.
The driveability issue is that studder 3-4 shift. I was thinking it has been the transmission. But now after after reading, it looks like it is the TPS. It acts the same as the problems I have with my 914's. I should have thought of it. But I thought it was digital with no moving pieces. But it looks like it has a spring pot just like the old Bosch stuff. More modern and sealed. But the same theory.
Did the lots dielectric. Did the anti-seize on the plugs. But it looks like I'll have to fire up the torch to get the O2 sensor out. We'll see if 24 hours with the PB Blaster broke it free.
Back to the plug wires. I can put them back to match the diagram without having to do anything with coil packs ?
 
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Old Jan 29, 2007 | 04:30 PM
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yes on plug wire and coil pack

time for new plugs double plats if you can find them or iridium fine wires with the plat tipped ground side lug....only Motorcraft or Autolite in the 4L EDIS
time for new plug wire also, Motorcraft

is it 3rd>OD or is it TC lockup shudder? lockout the OD and see if it still shudders

sure it's the TPS? TPS will show up also in steady state fixed throttle when you hit the SWEET stop, up>down>up>down
put a long lead on the TPS back into the cab and monitor with a DVM while driving...shudder with TPS voltage steady=problem elsewhere

3 ft pipe wrench makes all O2 sensors bow to the Big Dog Wrench
 
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Old Jan 29, 2007 | 04:42 PM
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Denso Iridium wires also meet the Aerostars strict requirements. I agree, you probably need to replace the plugs and wries, and the coil pack may have issues too.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2007 | 01:17 AM
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khanty,
are those Denso Iridiums you mention their top plug line or a line of plug wires....
have you ran the Denso Iridium plugs? if so, was the heat range correct for no ping in the 4.0L?....these 4L can be a pain for pinging with no spark knock sensor dynamic timing adjust by the PCM
no problemo in the winter time here, there is so much ethanol and benzene in our winter Pac. NW gas it wouldn't ping in a 351C at 13.5:1....summer gas can be a problem, some brands I can no longer use in the Aero.....
 
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Old Jan 30, 2007 | 08:11 AM
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The new plug wires are the new Belden Max from NAPA. Plugs are Autolite DP.
I did get the O2 sensor out. Broke it free with a pipe wrench. Not much space for that. Finished with Vice grips and a pipe. Took a while, but I got it.
Found that my small pipe wrench is broken, back is begining to split. So I had to use the next size I have. Hence too big.
Plus I found that some of my "Vice Grips" are made in China. And with the soft steel, the edges had rounded. Hence not bite.
So it looks like I need a new set of vince grips and a new small pipe wrench.
New O2 is in and ready to be wired up to night. I think I'll road test the tune up before I switch the plus wires back where they belong. I've changed more parts than I like to into between road tests. TOOO many variables now.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2007 | 08:22 AM
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is it 3rd>OD or is it TC lockup shudder? lockout the OD and see if it still shudders

I'll try that when I get it out for a test drive.

sure it's the TPS? TPS will show up also in steady state fixed throttle when you hit the SWEET stop, up>down>up>down
put a long lead on the TPS back into the cab and monitor with a DVM while driving...shudder with TPS voltage steady=problem elsewhere

up>down>up>down

I have the same event after hard braking at about 25 miles per hour too. We have a couple 90 degree section corners on the way home. 65 down to 25. The shift up studders too when you hit the sweet soft after the kick down to accelerate back up to speed.

Thanks for the time, and info. If the new TPS doesn't cure it, I'll hook up the meter with my long test leads. The shudder is what started this project.
I do think this will be a forever rig for us. So I think I'll order the $60 code reader with the screen.
 

Last edited by ckutter; Jan 30, 2007 at 08:26 AM.
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Old Jan 30, 2007 | 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by khantyranitar
Denso Iridium wires also meet the Aerostars strict requirements. I agree, you probably need to replace the plugs and wries, and the coil pack may have issues too.
I can't belive I said that. TYPO ALERT.

Denso iridium plugs do have to correct spec, both heat range and gap. They last a lot longer than double platinum too. Iridium is a better conductor of heat than platinum. It can withstand more heat, and is also a better conductor of electricity. I have tried them, and they work perfectly. Assuming they don't ever gt fouled, they should last 80 - 120 thousand miles per set. I would check them at 60 - 80 however, because I don't want them to seize in place.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2007 | 06:15 PM
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ckutter,
glad you got the O2 sensor changed...luckily the Aero's are not too difficult to get to...some of the imports and dual exhaust V8s can be a real pain, exhaust pipe unbolt and drop

disconnect the neg- batt. lead for 5>10 minutes to clear KAM in PCM so new O2 sensor is relearned quickly along with other changes...drive 10<20 miles to relearn your unique style...shift parameters for auto are also learned and stored in KAM for 3>OD and TC lockup in KAM

don't bother measuring variable voltage out of new TPS...if the new one doesn't solve it=problem is elsewhere....sometimes sensor wiring is crushed during services and intermittent shorts to ground=engine, chassis...another possibility

you can also monitor the v. changes on the leads from the PCM to the tranny for the TC lockup and 3>OD shift....pulled to ground potential to actuate....other side of shift solenoids is feed constant key on batt 12v.
will tell u if shift corresponds to shudder
 
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