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Old Jan 21, 2007 | 12:21 AM
  #1  
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From: Hesperia, So Cal
viton hoses

ware can i buy about 30 ft? i need to convert my 6.9 over so i can use B100..... Dustin
 
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Old Jan 21, 2007 | 11:19 AM
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From: Tillamook, Or.
FWIW
These guy's are right down the road from me, but then, that's most of the way up the coast from you.

http://www.greaseworks.org/viton

Maybe a backup source if nothing else.

Best
 
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Old Jan 23, 2007 | 12:47 AM
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I have a 6.9 myself and I was seeking viton lines and o-rings to replace those on my truck so I could run bio and I got a hint from someone on these forums but i forgot who and they told me to simply go to my local hardware store and buy some of that cheap braided clear line hose they sell there and use that instead. It is the BEST thing I have ever done for my truck. It is bio-diesel safe and its clear so you can check and see if you have air in your lines or you can see the quality of fuel running through your lines. Its AWESOME.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2007 | 09:27 AM
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Wow, that does sound good but it brings to mind some questions. DO you know how it will respond to heat and/or other oils? Do you know the material name?
 
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Old Jan 23, 2007 | 11:20 AM
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man i sure do not know the material name. you can call your local hardware store though they will know exactly what you are talking about. they sell this stuff in a clear hose and a clear braided line, but I was told to get the clear braided. I have the stuff running from both of my tanks and then all throughout my entire engine. its great cause I can take a peak anytime and see if I have air in my lines (i have had problems with this in the past) so it makes it real convenient. i have been running bio now for like 8 months and the lines are still crystal clear they havent even clouded up or anything.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2007 | 11:43 AM
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From: Kent WA
I'd bet money that clear braided hose is vinyl...
 
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Old Jan 23, 2007 | 07:27 PM
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From: Hesperia, So Cal
i was told not to use the clear stuff, because eventualy itll wear away with b100, but if it alright, ill have to go get some, did you also use it for your return line?
 
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Old Jan 23, 2007 | 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by DNewton
i was told not to use the clear stuff, because eventualy itll wear away with b100, but if it alright, ill have to go get some, did you also use it for your return line?
FWIW, I've had a piece of the clear stuff without any reinforcement in it hooked up as the return line between the #1 injector and the fuel filter since I bought my truck. No signs of the fuel doing anything to it at all.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2007 | 09:13 PM
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From: Hesperia, So Cal
1. what does FWIW mean?

2. so ill be fine if i hook up the braided vinyl clear line hose for all return lines and fuel lines?
 
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Old Jan 23, 2007 | 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by DNewton
1. what does FWIW mean?
FWIW = For What Its Worth
...and a few more common shorthands are...
IIRC = If I Recall Correctly
LMAO = Laughing My *** Off
ROFLMAO = Rolling On Floor Laughing My *** Off

Originally Posted by DNewton
2. so ill be fine if i hook up the braided vinyl clear line hose for all return lines and fuel lines?
Seems like it. My piece of clear tubing is only 4 months old - which is why I said FWIW. Dunno' about the long-term yet....
 
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Old Jan 23, 2007 | 09:31 PM
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well, if its cheap, i dont mind having to replace it.........but then again, i havent had to replace all the hoses yet, so i dont know how much of a pain it is......
 
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Old Jan 23, 2007 | 09:40 PM
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From: Kent WA
Originally Posted by DNewton
well, if its cheap, i dont mind having to replace it.........but then again, i havent had to replace all the hoses yet, so i dont know how much of a pain it is......
OK, well, you've gotta replace all the o-rings under the return caps (the piece on the injector where the return hoses attach). If you don't they will leak air once you disturb them.

The o-rings are a profile # 111. Anyplace that sells butyl rubber o-rings can sell them to you for a few cents apiece. Each injector needs two. When removing them, remove the bottom one first. With the top one still in place the bottom one will "roll" right over the top one and not fall into the groove. Likewise, when installing them, put the top one into its groove first and then the bottom one will just "roll" right on over it and down to the bottom groove.

Assemble the hoses and return caps as an assembly and install them that way after the o-rings are in place. Put a little oil, grease, or vasaline on the o-rings after they are in place and it will make pushing the caps down over the new o-rings a LOT easier.

Good lick with it....
 
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Old Jan 23, 2007 | 09:44 PM
  #13  
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From: Hesperia, So Cal
ok, so get butyl rubber o-rings with the profile #111?
 
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Old Jan 23, 2007 | 10:03 PM
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From: Hesperia, So Cal
another question, what size hose will i need?
 
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 01:13 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by DNewton
ok, so get butyl rubber o-rings with the profile #111?
Yup, that would be the direct replacement item. You could always see if they have # 111 o-rings in viton rubber as an upgrade....
 
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