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I am having trouble figuring out the wiring for the brakes. I can not locate a switch that would activate the brake lights when I press the petal. I found 1 black wire that will activate the brake lights if 12v is applied but where do I hook it up to? The guy had a trailer brake rig that this wire was hooked to. When this thing was installed it did work the brake lights, but I am not sure if the brake petal ever did. I have located a 2 plug harness right by the master cyliner. 1 hot 1 ground lead. 1 wire went to a valve that is in-line with the brake lines. The other lead had nothing plugged in. I am not sure if this valve has anything to do with the brake lights. I figured it activates a warning light upon brake failure, although I do not seem to have that light on the dash cluster. Where the heck is the brake light switch? Can I install something aftermarket if I do not have one? Note, It also looks like the standard master cylinder was swapped out for a power assist 2, reservoir type.
1964 F100's (or any other Ford truck of that vintage) did not have a brake warning light. The only brake switch a 1964 has is the brake light switch in the master cylinder area.
You should have a single stage master cylinder with two female threaded outlets at the front. The lower one is for the brake line, the upper one is where the switch screws in.
Someone may have installed the wrong master cylinder with only one outlet.
C1AZ-13480-A is the part number for the switch..it has a two prongs for the loom to plug on.
The MS has 2 outlets, brake line in each. Mounted on the frame, near the front is a valve/switch(?) with 2 leads and brake lines also connected in-line. One was connected to what looks like an OEM 2 prong connector (12v and ground) on the firewall by the MS. The other was hanging loose. Also is a black wire by the firewall, also loose. The black wire, when connected to 12v will activate brake lights. Is the valve/switch mentioned reponsible for activating the brake lights when the brake petal is pressed? In other words, are the brake lights activated by a pressure switch instead of a mechanical switch.
Please forgive my ignorance. If I had documentaion on what was original, I would be good to go!
That is exactly it. You may need to trace the black wire to where it originates from. Most likely you will find a splice where it replaced the original brake wire coming off the brake line pressure switch. The wires should be should follow like this... 12v power wire off the fuse block through the fire wall to the pressure switch then another wire from the pressure switch back to the tail lights via a frame harness. Best way to figure out the right color wire is to look at the pig tails on the brake light housings. You might have three wires on each pigtail. One for the brakes, one for the turn signal/tail light, and possibly one for the tail light housing ground. With the headlights on, the power wire for the turn signal/tail light is interupted by the flasher to make it blink. All you will need to do is identify what wire does what to properly set them up without pulling your hair out. I would tell you what color wires do what but I can't find my head light wiring diaghram. Seems I lost that one page some where in my move a little over a year ago.
Originally the brake light switch was controlled by pressure of the fluid in the master. But now you have a swapped in dual system. Originally, the switch on a dual set up mounted to a bracket that was part of the brake pedal..under the dash. It's mechanical....look at the pedal...all the way to the top.
Where the switch is now, I have no idea. Is there a brass brake differential valve where the four lines go? This would be on the left side (originally on trucks w/dual systems) near the left front wheel. Someone might have added a pressure switch there.
That brass valve has a switch, but it's for the low brake fluid warning light, not the stop lights.
Thanks Bill. yes, left front, on the frame is a pressure switch yoe describe. I already tried 12v in brake light out from it and it did not operate the brake lights. There is nothing on the petal. I will spend more time fishing around today for a switch. Maybe I can retrofit some the of electrical switch to the petal.
That is exactly it. You may need to trace the black wire to where it originates from. Most likely you will find a splice where it replaced the original brake wire coming off the brake line pressure switch. The wires should be should follow like this... 12v power wire off the fuse block through the fire wall to the pressure switch then another wire from the pressure switch back to the tail lights via a frame harness. Best way to figure out the right color wire is to look at the pig tails on the brake light housings. You might have three wires on each pigtail. One for the brakes, one for the turn signal/tail light, and possibly one for the tail light housing ground. With the headlights on, the power wire for the turn signal/tail light is interupted by the flasher to make it blink. All you will need to do is identify what wire does what to properly set them up without pulling your hair out. I would tell you what color wires do what but I can't find my head light wiring diaghram. Seems I lost that one page some where in my move a little over a year ago.
I have the brake light wire identified, that is not the problem. The switch is. Where exactly is the brake switch on your truck. What does it look like? I did confirm that there is a low brake pressure switch on my system. It was wired and the wiring is not original. I have no idea why it was installed since it seem to serve no function.
If you open up the 57-64 disc brake swap article or my gallery you will see exactly where mine is and what it looks like. I used a brass tee fitting to install the pressure switch inline since my new dual master cylinder didn't have a place to install it. Yours could be under the cab or since you had the brake controler in your truck it might have had it's own switch integrated.
Now that you mention it I could have tapped my proportioning valve since I only use one of the front brake line ports or installed a modified brake line fitting on the opposite side to accept it. Oh well I am not going to monkey with the system I have now since it works.
I did look at the pics. I see the switch which confirms that I have the same switch, hust in a different place. I also found a pic of a low-pressure switch which only has 1 lead. Therefore I conclude my brake switch is bad..1 on order!