5.0 mods?
#1
5.0 mods?
I have a 92 F150 Flareside with the 5.0L and the E40D. Are there any easy modifications that can be made to this engine? Are there any tuner chips for a truck this old? I'd rather not crack the cases and change out the cam or anything just yet. I'm just looking for small improvements. Thanks.
#2
Originally Posted by Skinsfan6
I have a 92 F150 Flareside with the 5.0L and the E40D. Are there any easy modifications that can be made to this engine? Are there any tuner chips for a truck this old? I'd rather not crack the cases and change out the cam or anything just yet. I'm just looking for small improvements. Thanks.
#3
#4
Originally Posted by dhag911
exhaust is a big one headers and true duals is probably the best (with a high flow cat or no cat) i like mine has a really nice sound and not real loud
bbk headers true duals no cat with glass packs and a K & N filter (the cone kind)
that is the best place to start
bbk headers true duals no cat with glass packs and a K & N filter (the cone kind)
that is the best place to start
#5
Originally Posted by Skinsfan6
Yeah I have a SI/DO Flowmaster on it and I did notice a slight difference off idle believe it or not. I might look into headers. I decided not to go with true duals because they'd be expensive and hard to route under the truck without sacrificing some ground clearance. Anyone know of any high flow cats? Are there any O2 sensors behind the cats that would make menot able to remove it?
#6
Originally Posted by Skinsfan6
I have a 92 F150 Flareside with the 5.0L and the E40D. Are there any easy modifications that can be made to this engine? Are there any tuner chips for a truck this old? I'd rather not crack the cases and change out the cam or anything just yet. I'm just looking for small improvements. Thanks.
#7
Trending Topics
#8
Mass air conversion allows you to do just about any modification to the engine and the computer can adjust to make it work.
There really aren't any big power adders that would be worth the money. Heads, cam, intake packages, superchargers, NOS is where the power is. There are some combinations that I have heard of that will work with the speed density system but if you are going to go that far you might as well do the mass air conversion and put heads, cam and intake on.
19lb fuel system works fine unless your going to supercharge or go with a really radical cam, big port heads etc... The 24lb injectors will give you more power in these applications.
The 5.0L Ford Dyno Tests book by Richard Holdener has every combination on just about every 302, 347 some 351 and a couple stroker engines with over 2000 dyno pulls. Great book for finding your best power adders.
It really put the parts in perspective for me. Most mods I was thinking of getting net hardly any horsepower and cost hundreds of dollars. Get the book and then decide.
There really aren't any big power adders that would be worth the money. Heads, cam, intake packages, superchargers, NOS is where the power is. There are some combinations that I have heard of that will work with the speed density system but if you are going to go that far you might as well do the mass air conversion and put heads, cam and intake on.
19lb fuel system works fine unless your going to supercharge or go with a really radical cam, big port heads etc... The 24lb injectors will give you more power in these applications.
The 5.0L Ford Dyno Tests book by Richard Holdener has every combination on just about every 302, 347 some 351 and a couple stroker engines with over 2000 dyno pulls. Great book for finding your best power adders.
It really put the parts in perspective for me. Most mods I was thinking of getting net hardly any horsepower and cost hundreds of dollars. Get the book and then decide.
#9
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Ottawa, Ontario
Posts: 31,020
Likes: 0
Received 1,025 Likes
on
804 Posts
Originally Posted by tripndrag
The 5.0L Ford Dyno Tests book by Richard Holdener has every combination on just about every 302, 347 some 351 and a couple stroker engines with over 2000 dyno pulls. Great book for finding your best power adders.
As stated, there a lots of "trick" products on the market that claim to add 20hp and increase fuel milage, but the reality is these things are mainly smoke and mirrors that do not alter the basic character of the motor. They do not perform equally on all motors, and the cost of running premium fuel for a chip for example, will quickly destroy any milage improvement.
There are some things that can be done to give a slight performance boost, advance the timing a couple degrees, install an electric fan, headers and a free flowing exhaust, 1.72 roller rockers. All of these totaled will make a pretty dramatic difference, but it still won't make power like a 351, so everything is relative.
#10
Originally Posted by Conanski
Cool.. I'll have to pick up a copy.
As stated, there a lots of "trick" products on the market that claim to add 20hp and increase fuel milage, but the reality is these things are mainly smoke and mirrors that do not alter the basic character of the motor. They do not perform equally on all motors, and the cost of running premium fuel for a chip for example, will quickly destroy any milage improvement.
There are some things that can be done to give a slight performance boost, advance the timing a couple degrees, install an electric fan, headers and a free flowing exhaust, 1.72 roller rockers. All of these totaled will make a pretty dramatic difference, but it still won't make power like a 351, so everything is relative.
As stated, there a lots of "trick" products on the market that claim to add 20hp and increase fuel milage, but the reality is these things are mainly smoke and mirrors that do not alter the basic character of the motor. They do not perform equally on all motors, and the cost of running premium fuel for a chip for example, will quickly destroy any milage improvement.
There are some things that can be done to give a slight performance boost, advance the timing a couple degrees, install an electric fan, headers and a free flowing exhaust, 1.72 roller rockers. All of these totaled will make a pretty dramatic difference, but it still won't make power like a 351, so everything is relative.
#11
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...150-302-a.html
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...15&autoview=sku
This one is the pricey extreme cooling one. I imagine this one will cool no matter what
the conditions. If you do a lot of stop and go and or heavy pulling in summer, I would go with this one.
I installed the mustang version one which doesn't cool as well, but it has never given me a problem unless I do a lot of stop and go in the middle of the summer. As long as you keep moving, it works great for me. It has never gotten over midway on the gauge anyway. I am cheap, so I went with the $125 option.
http://store.summitracing.com/egnse...k=KeywordSearch
I think the pro-form one is made by Flex-a-lite, only cheaper. It is the one I bought.
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...15&autoview=sku
This one is the pricey extreme cooling one. I imagine this one will cool no matter what
the conditions. If you do a lot of stop and go and or heavy pulling in summer, I would go with this one.
I installed the mustang version one which doesn't cool as well, but it has never given me a problem unless I do a lot of stop and go in the middle of the summer. As long as you keep moving, it works great for me. It has never gotten over midway on the gauge anyway. I am cheap, so I went with the $125 option.
http://store.summitracing.com/egnse...k=KeywordSearch
I think the pro-form one is made by Flex-a-lite, only cheaper. It is the one I bought.
#12
Originally Posted by broncobasher
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...150-302-a.html
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...15&autoview=sku
This one is the pricey extreme cooling one. I imagine this one will cool no matter what
the conditions. If you do a lot of stop and go and or heavy pulling in summer, I would go with this one.
I installed the mustang version one which doesn't cool as well, but it has never given me a problem unless I do a lot of stop and go in the middle of the summer. As long as you keep moving, it works great for me. It has never gotten over midway on the gauge anyway. I am cheap, so I went with the $125 option.
http://store.summitracing.com/egnse...k=KeywordSearch
I think the pro-form one is made by Flex-a-lite, only cheaper. It is the one I bought.
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...15&autoview=sku
This one is the pricey extreme cooling one. I imagine this one will cool no matter what
the conditions. If you do a lot of stop and go and or heavy pulling in summer, I would go with this one.
I installed the mustang version one which doesn't cool as well, but it has never given me a problem unless I do a lot of stop and go in the middle of the summer. As long as you keep moving, it works great for me. It has never gotten over midway on the gauge anyway. I am cheap, so I went with the $125 option.
http://store.summitracing.com/egnse...k=KeywordSearch
I think the pro-form one is made by Flex-a-lite, only cheaper. It is the one I bought.
Last edited by ehonda; 01-20-2007 at 06:54 PM.
#13
It should come with its own thermostate switch....it doesnt have anything to do with the motor....all you do is ground it and connect it to a power source....preferably a full time hot wire and the fan will cool the motor if the key is on or not...the unit will kick on and off by itself and little hint....if you mount it directly to the battery like I did ...use some battery anti corrosion spray on it...
#14
Instead of going with an electric fan, just switch yours to an aluminum.
I grabed the old fan off my 91 nite, and i had a huge improvement in performance going from the heavier style new fan to the older style 5 blade.
Running an aftermarket aluminum fan will improve for cheep.
Good headers, and good exhaust.
Underdrive pullies will get you a few more ponies, but they are really expensive.
Convert to the cone type filter, its a really easy mod, somebody wrote one in the articles section of the websight.
I grabed the old fan off my 91 nite, and i had a huge improvement in performance going from the heavier style new fan to the older style 5 blade.
Running an aftermarket aluminum fan will improve for cheep.
Good headers, and good exhaust.
Underdrive pullies will get you a few more ponies, but they are really expensive.
Convert to the cone type filter, its a really easy mod, somebody wrote one in the articles section of the websight.
#15
I used the provided thermo switch which you just stick in the radiator. It then has a temperature switch on the control box (mounted to the fan) so you can tune the temperature to what you want. You can tap into the AC pressure switch on the accumulator to make it come on when you turn on the AC. Seems like there was an additional input for the AC or a manual switch for turning it on.