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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

1990 Transmission Problems Help Please

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Old Jan 19, 2007 | 10:10 PM
  #16  
grndlzrd's Avatar
grndlzrd
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Joined: May 2006
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From: Alabama
i agree the tv is out of place
 
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Old Jan 19, 2007 | 10:31 PM
  #17  
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broncobasher
Tuned
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 394
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From: 13th Colony
Hmm, don't change tranny fluid? Reckon, you shouldn't change the engine oil either using that logic. Oh darn, I forgot to change the engine oil at 5k and it has been 10k, so I guess I just want change it, might knock some carbon loose.

If changing it knocks scale loose and it clogs up, then it was probably not far from burning up the clutches anyway.

Think about it, the reason you have to change the fluid is that the clutches are wearing just like your break pads do. Ever noticed that brake dust on your rims? That is in the fluid and it just gets worse. Changing the fluid keeps the clutches clean so that that they grip better (reduces slippage). If you are worried about knocking scale loose, change it a couple of times over 2 or 3K miles and to flush the scale out of the system. Then resume the manufacture recommended intervals.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2007 | 11:41 PM
  #18  
handyman43358's Avatar
handyman43358
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Joined: Aug 2004
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From: West Mansfield, Ohio
Well, see if this helps. This is from the Ford Bible that I got from a very good friend here on FTE...

Throttle Valve (TV) Control Cable Adjustment


Service Adjustment Procedure

Two methods of TV system adjustment are available.

1. TV cable adjustment with engine off.

2. TV control pressure check and adjustment procedure with engine on.

The Throttle Valve (TV) Control Cable System consists of a cable attaching stud on the throttle body throttle lever, the TV Control Cable Assembly, the External TV Control Lever on the transmission, and the Cable Mounting Brackets at the throttle body and transmission. As the throttle body lever is moved from idle to wide open throttle (WOT), the TV control cable pulls the transmission TV control lever from idle to WOT. Return of the cable and transmission lever towards idle is accomplished by the return spring on the transmission end of the cable assembly. This spring and the end of the cable assembly is protected by a flexible rubber boot. The transmission external TV control lever actuates the internal TV control mechanism which regulates the TV control pressure. The travel of this lever is controlled by stops internal to the transmission.

The TV control cable is set and locked to its proper length during initial assembly by pushing in the locking tab at the throttle body end of the cable assembly. When the tab is unlocked, the cable is released for adjustment. The take-up spring at this end of the cable automatically tensions the cable when released. With the slack taken up and the locking tab pushed in, the take-up spring plays no part in the operation of the system.



Under normal circumstances, it should not be necessary to alter or readjust the initial setting of the TV control cable. Situations requiring readjustment of the TV control cable include maintenance involving the removal and/or replacement of the throttle body, transmission, or TV cable assembly.

When the TV control cable is properly set, the transmission TV control lever will be at its internal idle stop (lever to rear as far as it will travel) when the throttle body throttle lever is at its idle stop.




TV Cable Adjustment with Engine Off

Note: At accelerator pedal WOT, the transmission TV control lever will not be at its WOT stop. The wide open throttle position must not be used as a reference point for adjusting the TV control cable.


Idle Speed Affect on the TV Control Cable

The 5.0L (302 CID) EFI Engines use an air By-Pass ISC that does not affect throttle position. Therefore, idle automatic setting does not affect TV Cable adjustment.


TV Cable Adjustment Procedure, Retention Spring

1. Set parking brake and put selector in N (do not put selector in P).

2. Remove the protective cover over the cable linkage (F-150-250 and Bronco vehicles only).

3. Verify that the throttle lever is at the idle stop. If it isn't, check for binding or interference in the throttle system. Do not attempt to adjust idle stop.

4. Verify that the cable routing is free of sharp bends or pressure points and that the cable operates freely. Lubricate the TV lever ball stud with Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or -K (ESA-M1C75-B) or equivalent if necessary. Check for damage to cable or rubber boot.

5. Unlock the locking tab at the throttle body end by prying up with a small screwdriver to free the cable.



6. A retention spring must be installed on the TV control lever at the transmission, to hold it in the idle position (as far to rear as the lever will travel) with about ten pounds of force. If a suitable single spring is not available, two V8 TV return springs may be used. Attach retention spring(s) to the transmission TV lever and hook rear end of spring to the transmission case.



7. With the TV cable locking tab unlocked and the retention spring in place, rotate the transmission outer TV lever 10-30 degrees and return slowly.

8. Push down on the locking tab until flush.



9. Remove the retention spring(s) from the transmission TV lever.




TV Control Pressure Check and Adjustment with Engine On

NOTE:
This procedure requires the use of TV Pressure Gauge with Hose T86L-70002-A or equivalent. The results of the adjustment procedure depend on the accuracy of the pressure gauge. The pressure gauge should be checked (and recalibrated if necessary) approximately four times a year or when the following occurs:

a. The needle will not return to 0 psi under no pressure.

b. The needle goes past 0 psi (negative side) under no pressure.

c. Bumping or dropping a pressure gauge.

1. Attach TV Pressure Gauge with Hose T86L-70002-A or equivalent to the TV port on the transmission. On some applications it might be easier to use the TV Pressure Fitting Service Tool No. D80L-77001-A.

2. Remove the protective cover over the cable linkage.

3. Insert the tapered end of the Cable TV Control Pressure Gauge Tool T86L-70332-A between the crimped slug on the end of the cable and the plastic cable fitting that attaches to the throttle lever. Push in gauge tool, forcing the crimped slug away from the plastic fitting. Make sure gauge tool is pushed in as far as it will go.



4. Operate the engine until normal operating temperature is reached (approximately 5-10 min. with transmission in park). The transmission fluid temperature should be approximately 100-150°F. Do not make pressure check if transmission fluid is cold or too hot to touch.

5. Set parking brake and place shift selector in N (neutral). With gauge block in place and engine idling in neutral, the TV pressure should be 33 ± 5 psi. For best transmission function, set the TV pressure as close as possible to the mean (average) pressure using the following procedure.

NOTE:
Do not check or set TV pressure in P (park).

6. Unlock the TV Cable Locking Tab at the throttle body bracket. The adjuster preload spring should cause the adjusting slider to move away from the throttle body and the TV pressure should increase.

7. Push on the slider from behind the bracket until the TV pressure is 33 psi. While still holding the slider, push down on locking tab as far as it will go, locking slider in position.

NOTE:
An increase of 1-2 psi is possible when transmission is shifted from NEUTRAL to a forward gear. This is considered normal and no compensation should be made.

8. Remove gauge tool, allowing cable to return to its normal idle position. With the engine still idling in neutral, TV pressure must be at or near zero (less than 5 psi). If not, reinstall gauge tool. Repeat Steps 6 and 7 but set the TV pressure to a pressure lower than previously set but not less than 26 psi. Remove gauge tool and recheck TV pressure to determine if it is at or near zero.




Hope this helps a little. This is all the info I've got on adjusting that TV cable.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2007 | 03:48 PM
  #19  
spankydxm's Avatar
spankydxm
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Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 94
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Originally Posted by andym
That is probably some of the worst advice I've read in a long time. It defies all logic and reasoning, and flies in the face of every owner's manual ever printed.

Jas88, I have a 90 Bronco with the original E4OD - 127k on it so far. Fluid and filter flush every 15k.

I know , I know.....I didnt like to say it but it has worked for me in the past and alot of old timers also told me this...how in the hell can so many old people never change their trannys oil in their vehicles that are from the 1950-72 era yet they still run like new....I guess it goes back to the saying "if it aint broke dont fix it"

Originally Posted by andym
I have a 90 Bronco with the original E4OD - 127k on it so far. Fluid and filter flush every 15k.

My father has over 220,000 miles on his 97 F-250 E40D and it runs like a champ and pulls a 16 foot tool trailer behind him everyday...Do you know he has never changed his trans fluid....at that mileage..I wouldnt think that truck would be running....he also gets oil changes it 7000 mile intervals ..."usually when he cant take me bitching at him anymore for not changing it regularly"..
If you keep your fluids to the levels they need to be...you should be good to go for a long time...if you tinker with things,things will happen
 
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Old Jan 20, 2007 | 03:52 PM
  #20  
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spankydxm
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Joined: Apr 2004
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Sorry but just a question....Have yall never heard the saying "if you replace one replace the other" in reference to engines and trannys...I dont abide by this but I bet some people on here do or atleast knows someone who does .
 
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Old Jan 21, 2007 | 09:42 PM
  #21  
00bucker's Avatar
00bucker
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From: south of Hotsprings ar
Thanks I will Check the Manual
Rick
 
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Old Jan 22, 2007 | 12:42 AM
  #22  
quaddriver's Avatar
quaddriver
Cargo Master
20 Year Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,512
Likes: 8
From: Cook Forest and Irwin PA
if the fluid aint low then I bet he didnt loctite the filter bolts, she came undone, sucked air, wiped out a pack or two now you are screwed. futzing the tv cable aint gonna fix it, once you get the slack out, it stays out.
 
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