Went through overflow
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From: Bethel,Ak
Went through overflow
I went through some overflow and possible suckup some water into the engine.
The motor quit but started again. It now has a loud noise from the upper part of the engine mostly from near the dist. I pulled off the valve covers to see if any pushrods or valve are bent or loose, they were all tight. Any thoughts, Thanks.
The motor quit but started again. It now has a loud noise from the upper part of the engine mostly from near the dist. I pulled off the valve covers to see if any pushrods or valve are bent or loose, they were all tight. Any thoughts, Thanks.
Post Fiend
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From: Lexington Mo
If yo think you may have water in the engine, pull you're oil dipstick, and oil filler cap see if you have any milky looking crud.
After you went through the water, the engine died, then started. If you are hearing noise around the distributer cap, remove the cap and take a peak. You may have gotten some water in the cap, wich would be why it died. Spray wd40 in the cap. It will help with getting moister out. See if that'll start it and get rid of a noise.
Bob
After you went through the water, the engine died, then started. If you are hearing noise around the distributer cap, remove the cap and take a peak. You may have gotten some water in the cap, wich would be why it died. Spray wd40 in the cap. It will help with getting moister out. See if that'll start it and get rid of a noise.
Bob
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From: Bethel,Ak
There was no water or moister in the dist. The engine is still making the noise near the front. Could it be a lifter that is collasped enough to still move the push rod?
Any other suggestions please.Thnxs
Any other suggestions please.Thnxs
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Joined: Mar 2001
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From: So Cal
Maybe you "hydraulic'd" your engine? That's BAD. You would have to be in really deep water to do this, say driver window level or you made waves at head light level. Guys who buy after market cold air ram intakes sometimes discover this phenomenon, not nice.
If you suck in enough water to partially fill a cylinder, when the engine runs, the water won't compress so it will hammer the pistons, piston rods and crank journals, usually won't hurt the valves or pushrods. A loud knocking might be a symptom of this.
What kind of noise does it make? Does it vary with engine speed? Is your air filter wet? Is there water in the airbox? Might be too late to check this since water will dry out over time.
Good Luck, hope I am wrong,
Jim Henderson
If you suck in enough water to partially fill a cylinder, when the engine runs, the water won't compress so it will hammer the pistons, piston rods and crank journals, usually won't hurt the valves or pushrods. A loud knocking might be a symptom of this.
What kind of noise does it make? Does it vary with engine speed? Is your air filter wet? Is there water in the airbox? Might be too late to check this since water will dry out over time.
Good Luck, hope I am wrong,
Jim Henderson
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From: Bethel,Ak
The water did not get over my 33's. Was traveling on our frozen river up here in AK.The K&N Filter had slush on the bottom of it and the top was a little wet. The intake tube did not have standing water in it just moister. My engine is a 1997 460 if that helps any. The noise is not a heavy knock of a conrod and it does speed up with the engine but does not get real loud.
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From: Bethel,Ak
Finaly changed my oil no water in it. When i cut the oil filter open to check I found tiny bits of aluminum with bits of sands. Wondering if i should check the timimg gear and chain to make their ok also the cover. Any other suggestions. THXs.
Hotshot
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From: iowa
tiny bits of aluminum would indicate a piston problem, run a compression check and report the results.
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From: Bethel,Ak
Well i was dumber than a yard duck. I changed my rotor and cap and the noise went away but i am going to still check my compression. Strange thing about it still was running very smooth. Starting, idleing and revving smooth. Go figure.
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From: Bethel,Ak
Okay fianally ran a compression check here are the results. #1 130 #2 150 #3 150
#4 150 #5 150 #6 160 #7 155 #8 162 psi. The engine still has a noise but it is not there all the time. It sound like it is from #1 cyl but it is real hard to tell even with a stehtascope. Any suggestions Thx.
#4 150 #5 150 #6 160 #7 155 #8 162 psi. The engine still has a noise but it is not there all the time. It sound like it is from #1 cyl but it is real hard to tell even with a stehtascope. Any suggestions Thx.
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From: So Cal
The #1 compression is a tad lower than would be usual. Most manuals recommend something like less than 10% variation amongst cylinders. #1 is about 20% lower than the others. Depending on how many miles you have this may be "normal" or you may have damaged a piston ring or valve.
YOu can check for what kind of damage by squirting about 1 table spoon of motor oil in the cylinder and re running the check on that cylinder. If it is the ring the compression should go up. If it is the valve it should stay about the same.
A slightly bent valve could cause lower readings and some noise. I would worry over the long run about the bend causing damage to the valve guide.
If you have a damaged ring it could scorfe the cylinder wall leading to more leakage over time.
If you do have a bad ring I would suspect it is minor since a broken ring will drop a lot more compression.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
YOu can check for what kind of damage by squirting about 1 table spoon of motor oil in the cylinder and re running the check on that cylinder. If it is the ring the compression should go up. If it is the valve it should stay about the same.
A slightly bent valve could cause lower readings and some noise. I would worry over the long run about the bend causing damage to the valve guide.
If you have a damaged ring it could scorfe the cylinder wall leading to more leakage over time.
If you do have a bad ring I would suspect it is minor since a broken ring will drop a lot more compression.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson