Maximum power Minimum money
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From: Venezuela
Maximum power Minimum money
Hi guys I have a stock F150, 1991, 4.9L + E4OD + 4WD, after read a lot of post regarding power improvements for 300's, I have a very simple question:
In your opinion, Which modification will give more power with less money???
Port Job, Rocker replacement, Injector recalibration, High pressure fuel regulator, Performance chips, Throttle body, Intake/exhaust, etc...
In your opinion, Which modification will give more power with less money???
Port Job, Rocker replacement, Injector recalibration, High pressure fuel regulator, Performance chips, Throttle body, Intake/exhaust, etc...
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The two best is..
1. Chip/programer (about $400, good for 20 hp)
2. Drop the muffler (cost is up to you, good for 2-5 hp)
3. Nitrous Oxide Injection (about $400, I would go with the 75 hp version for engine longetivity)
1. Chip/programer (about $400, good for 20 hp)
2. Drop the muffler (cost is up to you, good for 2-5 hp)
3. Nitrous Oxide Injection (about $400, I would go with the 75 hp version for engine longetivity)
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Originally Posted by Beechkid
The two best is..
1. Chip/programer (about $400, good for 20 hp)
2. Drop the muffler (cost is up to you, good for 2-5 hp)
3. Nitrous Oxide Injection (about $400, I would go with the 75 hp version for engine longetivity)
1. Chip/programer (about $400, good for 20 hp)
2. Drop the muffler (cost is up to you, good for 2-5 hp)
3. Nitrous Oxide Injection (about $400, I would go with the 75 hp version for engine longetivity)
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From: Lathrop, MO
Without a port-n-polish in the head, headers are not going give you much noticable gain.
Assuming the our engine is healthy here are my suggestions:
Swap the dual cats for a high flow single with 2 1/2 to 3 catback and high flow muffler.
Replace the paper element airfilter with a higher flowing element. Stay away from the FIPK kits since most of them draw the heated underhood air.
So will argue this one, but...
Upgrade to a hotter coil and 8mm plug wires. Open the spark gap to .055.
If you haven't recently, replace the O2 sensor and check that the EGR is functioning correctly.
Without going into the guts of the engine, these changes will be your best bang for the buck. You'll get more horsepower and torque for the money spent. As well as improved fuel economy if you drive conservatively.
Stay away from power adders like NOS and forced induction unless you plan on a major overhaul to handle the added stress.
Assuming the our engine is healthy here are my suggestions:
Swap the dual cats for a high flow single with 2 1/2 to 3 catback and high flow muffler.
Replace the paper element airfilter with a higher flowing element. Stay away from the FIPK kits since most of them draw the heated underhood air.
So will argue this one, but...
Upgrade to a hotter coil and 8mm plug wires. Open the spark gap to .055.
If you haven't recently, replace the O2 sensor and check that the EGR is functioning correctly.
Without going into the guts of the engine, these changes will be your best bang for the buck. You'll get more horsepower and torque for the money spent. As well as improved fuel economy if you drive conservatively.
Stay away from power adders like NOS and forced induction unless you plan on a major overhaul to handle the added stress.
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
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From: Venezuela
Thanks you all!!!
Also Crewchief for that info, just a question, I live in Venezuela, here there are not too much shops who knows a lot about Port & Polish Jobs. I guess I can doit my self, but I need some directions.
Is there any Web page or site where info about this issue is available? My pocked can handle a Crane Cam, maybe a coil & cables, I'll take care about head job if I can find the right info.
Also Crewchief for that info, just a question, I live in Venezuela, here there are not too much shops who knows a lot about Port & Polish Jobs. I guess I can doit my self, but I need some directions.
Is there any Web page or site where info about this issue is available? My pocked can handle a Crane Cam, maybe a coil & cables, I'll take care about head job if I can find the right info.
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Heck ive done porting & polish jobs with a gasket set and a drimel. Of course if you have a basic understanding of how everything works together than you should be good. But I used a gasket for the headers and intake mani I was going to put on and drimeled out just about to the size of the gasket port and then cleaned it all up. Of course you dont want to go to big to fast cuz remember metal doesnt replace itself. Go easy and see how that works for you and the specs on your motor and then go from there.
Last edited by Hobbybigred; Jan 16, 2007 at 08:08 PM.
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Originally Posted by Beechkid
The two best is..
1. Chip/programer (about $400, good for 20 hp)
2. Drop the muffler (cost is up to you, good for 2-5 hp)
3. Nitrous Oxide Injection (about $400, I would go with the 75 hp version for engine longetivity)
1. Chip/programer (about $400, good for 20 hp)
2. Drop the muffler (cost is up to you, good for 2-5 hp)
3. Nitrous Oxide Injection (about $400, I would go with the 75 hp version for engine longetivity)
But just to note. If you wanna do that to your motor dont expect for it to last longer than a few months. I6 arent made for alot of power they were built to last. But if your looking to turn your I6 into a drag truck dont count on it. Its gonna cost you a crap load of money and then a lot more headaches down the road. I know to many pl doing that crap to I6's. If you want power swap it with a 302 or do like I do and have a I6 and a 302.
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Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Coal Region
i have to dis-agree with SRcrewchief, if u look up SilverStreaks dyno thread u will see headers added a significant gain across the board. that was with no other major mods (he did have an igintion and injector upgrade)...