Number one, I'm trying to be legitimate here. If you've been wrenching on cars as long as it sounds like, you'd know what I am talking about. In order to keep the fluid moving, what pushes it? More fluid. The water pump can not, I repeat, CAN NOT push air. Hence why it's called a WATER pump. That is WHY you don't want air in the cooling system. Not only that, how will a plugged heater core cause the temperature of the coolant in the engine fluctuate that much? The heater core is not a part of the main cooling system anyways. It's kind of like a motorcycle with a sidecar. It's there, but it doesn't have to be for everything to work right. And to get all the air out, you simply fill the system. Like you stated earlier, coolant is heavier than air, thus as you add coolant to the system, the air escapes. Any more questions?

 

woops 1 more thing I thought of


have only seen this once.

you can start up truck and watch it untill the TS oppens (with cap on)

watch to see that the TOP or BOTTOM hose is NOT collapsing when the TS opens

as you know the flo is from botton to top

when the TS opens the pump starts pulling water it will be pulled from botton of rad and be pushed to the top hose and it will sometimes collaps one hose

they used to sell hoses with a spring in them VERY bad never get a hose that has a spring in it

Good luck and let us know what you find out


Thx

 

Well to be totaly honest yes u can Push air.... as you may know you dont need water or coolant in the RAd to operate the engine.... in fact most in your exzample motorcycles are what's called air cooled..
if you do run one with out water and it reads hot. the ts will remain open ( if there is one) and it will be (pushing air) it's rathar a pull not a push. look at the water pump and notice how it's mounted... as you know or hopefully know an engine WILL NOT run counter clockwise.
the flow goes from botton to top. And if you add anything to a cooling system like a heater core you damn sure better have fluid running through it OR it will remain cold.... OR very HOT.......

and the heater core IS VERY MUCH A PART OF THE COOLING SYSTEM... that's where it's mounted and there is water of fluid running through it that makes it a part of the system... LOL at that one...

If you have ever lived in a HOT climate you will know that when a water cooled engine runs a little hot you allways turm the heater on to release some of the heat off the engine......


(((how will a plugged heater core cause the temperature of the coolant in the engine fluctuate that much? )))

I have explaned that one.... there NEVER totay colged they jsut cant pass enould water... If you were driving in your car and someone dumped 2 gallons of cool water in your RAD do you thinik it would have any effict ?

any questions

 

Alrighty. Here is the description from my Ford Bible. Read up and learn something.

Filling the Cooling System

To fill the cooling system, install the cylinder block drain plug(s) and close the radiator draincock. Disconnect the heater outlet hose at the water pump to bleed or release trapped air in the system. When the coolant begins to escape, connect the heater outlet hose.


Notice you have to bleed the system. Just like brakes. Your brakes will not worth worth a crap if you dont have all the air out of the system. Just like the cooling system.

 

ok Your right.. I didn't mean to come here and get anyone upset..

and for that I'm sorry.....

 

Go ahead and bleed your rad...

However that's a new one on me.....

 

What? Air cooled engines have fins on the side of the heads to allow air to pass through them, to keep them cool. And I never said you had to have coolant to operate the engine. But you do have to have the appropriate amount of coolant to keep the system at a constant, steady temperature.



Again, What? How is the water pump supposed to keep pumping coolant if there is an air bubble in the system? It's not going to move the air bubble, unless there is pressure behind it. If the water pump is spinning freely in air, it's not going to build up enough forward pressure to move that air bubble.

Yes it is, but it's not going to make the temperature of the coolant in the engine change dramatically. If your truck is running 195 degrees and you crank up the blower motor for the heater, the coolant temperature may drop a few degrees (5-10 max), but not enough to keep the engine cool.

Read my above statement. I know this. Ohio does get hot in the summetime you know...


Spellchecker, anyone? Unlike you, there is no room for 2 gallons of water in MY radiators. Judging by your previous post stating that you ran a whole year off of 1 gallon of water, you must have room.


Yes. Have you any idea what you're talking about? Like I said, a clogged heater core will not, and I repeat will NOT cause the temperature of the coolant IN THE ENGINE to change that quick, that much.

 

Son I'm Not here to teach you science....as you may or may NOT know there is no such thing as cold... ( I'm not sure your ready for that one) there is only an absant of heat,, any time you have less heat in anything the hotter substance will be forced into that void ANY TIME. ANY TIME you take anything and change it's proptery from one state to another it can only reach that state NO futher Period....

take water..... it's bolingpoint is 212f at that point it changes from a liquid to a gas it CAN NOT reach any futher tempture it cant reach 213f
if freezes at 32f it can NOT get any colder than that.... IT CANT....

I really wish you could explane how air is heaver than water..
belive it or NOT that 's what your trying to explane here.

and I really belive it gets hot in OH....

 

What? You're making 0 sense. Water can reach higher temperatures than 212 degrees.

SO basically what you're telling me that whenever my trucks temperature gets up to 220 degrees, all the water evaporates, which leaves me with nothing but air in the system? Give me a break, Son.

And air is NOT HEAVIER THAN WATER! Please show me where I have said this. What I have been trying to put into your head is that a cooling system CANT function properly if there is air in the system. It has to be a closed system with water/coolant or Kool-Aid for all I care. It can NOT have air in it. If there is air in the system, it will pull coolant from the reservoir and replace the air with said coolant.

 

I'm going to offer this as a suggestion; pull your t-stat and make sure it is a stock rated unit at the least. If you noticed this problem right after the thermostat was replaced, then chances are, it may be t-stat related. Me personally, if I changed my t-stat, and then the temp conditions changed suddenly, I'd take a close look at the part that was replaced....just something to look at...good luck.

 

Blurry, that is a beautiful Avatar you have got. That is an incredible picture.

 

Please review some science: physical states are determined by temperature AND pressure. The triple point is where three of the four states exist at the same time. Water has a triple point of 0 Celcius and 612 pascals. Plasma exists beyond the critical point.

It can. Each pound of pressure allows for three extra degrees F. The normal 15 psi cap allows for an extra 45 F. The addition of glycol also increases the boiling point thus further raising the purposed 212 limit.

Depotops:

If you review this and the small block forums you will find more information about previous troubles of similar situations.

Mike
Chemist

 

No fluid lost...

Reading this over I will check what you've all suggested.

I'll post my findings.

 

It can. Each pound of pressure allows for three extra degrees F. The normal 15 psi cap allows for an extra 45 F. The addition of glycol also increases the boiling point thus further raising the purposed 212 limit.


Mike
Chemist[/QUOTE]

LOL so you think it can reach cloder temps than 32 f ?...........

it's ok a ton of people dont understand this

 

Thank you sir.