Gentlemen,

I need some ideas. I am working on replacing the front bed panel on my 49. I am using the front bed panel from a 2005 GMC. Here’s the deal, the GMC bed panel has several structural stampings in it and is basically at three different levels (if viewed in profile).

I will have to cut the GMC panel down to size and break the edges at 90 degrees to create mounting flanges. That’s fine and dandy when dealing with a flat piece of sheet metal.
Any ideas on how to do it on something like this?

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The only thing I can think of right now is to make some cuts at each of the transitions and bend each level separately. (I tried to include a simple line drawing created in Word but it doesn't seem to want to make the transition)

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Any thoughts? Thanks

Bobby

Heres what I'm messing with;
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...135828.520.390

 

Bobby
I can't see your pic well enough.
If those transitions go into the area that needs bent you will have to make cuts and different size/angle bends to line everything up.

I would be getting out the Ol' cardboard for some quality mockup time to Imagineer everything out.

I think. Therefore, I'm confused!

 

If like Dick says, the stamped areas extend into the flange area, your only practical solution IMO is to cut off the panel shot and weld an angle to it. (My spot welder is dynamite for that -- bring it over!)

The only other way (a lot more trouble) is to grind off the raised bead (if that's what it is) in the area to be bent, so you'd have essentially a shovel-shaped hole at the end of the bead. Then bend the edge, bringing the hole up against the bead (it will match the contour ?) and throw some weld metal there.

 

That is going to be a difficult thing to accomplish. You could cut in at right angles to the bend at the end of each level and bend the flat sections. The transitions is where thing will get dicey. As dick says get some posterboard and cut a model to get an idea of what will happen. does the flange need to continue across the transitions? How wide does the flange need to be? If it is narrow and the transitions gradual you could make a hammer form to bend it in one piece. If it is a wider flange with gradual (i.e. < 45*) you might be able to use a stretcher to expand the metal in the transitions or use a cross peen hammer and dolly to produce a fan shaped stretch.

 

OOps! just noticed the panel is from a 2005 model. The steel composition changed back in the 70's or thereabouts. The new steels are much less workable. I think your best option would to create a new panel from sheet metal that doesn't have shaped areas where the flanges go. Not as difficult to do as you might think.

 

Thanks for the suggestions.

Yes, I will have to cut the 2005 GMC panel down to size as its from a wide bed truck. I will need to cut down at an angle from the top flange and then straight down to match the bedside of the 49. Natuarally the cuts go right through the stampings.

I did pick up some large pieces of cardboard yesterday so that I can lay it all out on the cardboard and make some templates (something tells me I will go through alot of cardboard before its all said and done)

While typing this just now I had a thought. All this time I have been looking at this bed panel and considering my cuts I have been working off of a center point. It just occured to me that I don't have to cut equal amount off of either side to make this panel the width I need. Maybe I can get lucky and be able to "center" it up where the cuts fall just off of the stampings (this is starting to sound like wishfull thinking.....it never works out that easy for me)

AX, Dick,
I was afraid of that (of having to cut at each transition) If I do go that route I don't think I will worry about bending the transition area....maybe just cut it off flush. Basically the flange will be used to spot weld this panel to the bedsides so the flanges bent from the rest of the panel should be plenty enough to attach the front panel.

Ross,
The angle thing crossed my mind and might be and easy solution. What are you doing this weekend, maybe I'll drop by and show you what I got going.

Thanks everyone
Bobby

 

Bobby
I'm imagineering here
Cut the panel to match the top flair of the bed, from that point cut it straight down to the bed floor, matching the inside dimension of the bed side. The cuts on both sides should be a N'th shy. Then weld a ?" strip to the new piece and then weld the whole thing into your bed.

Using the percise dimension I have provided, I can't go wrong.

 

Personally I'd get myself a sheet of 18 ga cold rolled and some MDF. Lay out however many and shape raised areas I wanted in it. Make some dies out of the MDF and form me a panel exactly the way i need it. To me that's less work than trying to rework an existing panel to fit. Check out the panels this guy made using basic hammerforms: http://www.heritagesonline.homestead.com/index.html

 

Bobby,
Can you use the transitions that are already on the ends and cut out the middle section which is flat to the correct length. My 2 cents...
Jaye

 

Man, do I ever agree with AX. I worked with the later sheetmetal. They changed the composition so they could make it lighter. Stuffs brittle as all get out! Plus, it's a bear to weld because it's thinner. The front panel would be the easiest to make once a template is formed. Good luck!

 

I was on my way home last night with cardboard and my trusty tape measure when my phone rang. The next thing I know I'm setting in a cross town bar with a group of buddies commiserating the drudgery of the work week over some frosty libations....

I checked out that website AX, WOW! great link!! Cool info

Hopefully I will get truck time this weekend. Since I have the panel already I will go ahead and try my hand at fitting it up. Worst case scenario is I make a mess out of it and have to build my own out of some 18ga.

Nothing ventured, nothing gained

Thanks to you all for the suggestions, as always its a huge help
Bobby

 

Ax, et All,
I agree about the "new" metal being a different animal, it has to be treated differently.
Somewhere along the line of learning to work metal I picked up the habit of pre-treating the metal I wanted to work, in otherwords I beat on the area for awhile before I actually got down to rearranging it the way I wanted it. I would start out with light blows outside of the area to be reformed and work my way in to the area. I would repeat this a number of times increasing the strength of the blows until just before I was actually moving metal (It's kind of a Zen thing.)
With the "New" metal it wants to have a larger area treated, and it wants to have more time spent working it.
I know BobJ thinks I'm wierd for talking to my Truck and if he reads this, He'll blow Coffee out his nose, but all metal needs to be talked into working with you instead of against you.
I envision the pre-treating as arrainging the internal metal structure in a way that makes it more workable. In areas that will need the most forming I use a sliding strike with the hammer to squeeze things in the right direction.
I know, I'm wierd, but it works for me.
(I'm also working on a magnitizing technique for pre-treatment)

 

Dick,

Your posts always bring a smile to my face, your description in the "ultimate truck" thread of your panel following you around like a lost puppy begging for attention still has me grinning. I can picture a happy panel bounding behind your crashing down fences, tearing the laundry off the line, etc just waiting for you to scratch it behind the mirrors while it goes into the contented full body wag.


Keep up the great writing
Bobby

 

Dick,
Thanks for bringing a smile to my face, I needed that!
I think that technique is called "beating it into submission" and was introduced by Paul Sr. over at OCC.
Today the younger metalworkers call it giving it a "beat down".

 

Ok
So your working on a piece of jewlry you've designed, it requires an interwoven silver and copper bezel.
Since the metals are disimular in makeup they require different techniques to make them blend to your needs.
Is it sight, smell, sound or feel that tells you when they are ready to work, or is it something else? A little voice in your ear? Why else do you mutter the "Ahh yes" when you know its right.