your going to have to drive it for a long long time to come out ahead.good luck

 

> I was wrong above about the warranty, it is a 3yr 75000 which doesn't sound too bad

Well, that is a big diffence between that and 12/12 for the money.

FWIW: Nothing is bullet proof, everything has a certain % that fail within a certain % of time. By proper upkeep you try to avoid being that %, sometimes it happens anyways no matter what you do.

imo, Nothing wrong with the 3.0, except maybe oil filter location. With oil changes and not beating it to death, it should be a 200k engine.

As for 3-4 hours to swap a 3.0, I would like to see that done! Especially since you have to swap over all sensors and switches even on a long block. It has to take an hour just to remove the radiator and grill.

On the day you pick it up, turn it on and let it idle until it gets hot (upper hose) and check for leaks while in the lot! Then take it for a long test drive, just treat it as a new engine and do not over rev it or drive it for 65 mph for hours on end. Then take it back the next day for a LOF.

 

I still say 7 or 8 hours is all it should take to do a simple engine swap,,,,(removing the entire engine and droping in another complete used one. not changing sensors

 

1995 3.0 removal - installation is much longer because you have to pull the vacuum on the A/C to recharge it. There is no such thing as a simple engine swap in latter model vehicles. The quickest engine swap I have seen by a master mechanic (who had done dozens) was 12 hours with the 3.8L Taurus.

Maybe someone could post the unreasonable flat rate time from Ford?

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Refer to «Section 14-01».

2. Drain the cooling system. Refer to «Section 03-03».

3. Discharge and recover the refrigerant from the A/C system. Refer to «Section 12-03A», 12-03B or 12-03C.

4. Drain the power steering fluid.

5. Disconnect the hood light connector and locator from the hood. Unclip the ground strap from the right side of the hood. Mark the location of the hood hinges, remove the four bolts, and remove the hood.

6. Disconnect the crankcase ventilation hose from the air cleaner outlet tube. Disconnect the electrical connectors from the mass air flow (MAF) sensor and the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor. Disconnect the harness locator from the air cleaner outlet tube. Loosen the clamp at the throttle body, unsnap the air cleaner cover from the air cleaner housing. Remove the air cleaner cover and air cleaner outlet tube as an assembly.

9. Remove the fan shroud retaining bolts. Using Strap Wrench D85L-6000-A or equivalent to hold the water pump pulley, remove the fan blade and fan clutch assembly. Remove the fan blade and fan shroud as an assembly.

10. Remove the radiator overflow hose from the radiator and position it out of the way. Remove the accessory drive belt.

11. Compress the clamp on the lower radiator hose and disconnect the hose from the radiator.

12. Disconnect the automatic transmission oil cooling lines from the radiator fittings. Install protective caps over the lines.

13. Remove the radiator bolts. Tilt the radiator back and lift it directly upward, clear of the radiator support bracket.

14. CAUTION: When disconnecting the speed control cable from the ball stud, use a screwdriver (or similar tool) close to the stud and pry slowly. Pulling by hand can damage the cable.

Remove the accelerator control splash shield pushpins and the shield. Disconnect the accelerator and speed control cables from the ball stud at the throttle body. Remove the speed control cable from the locator at the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) transducer bracket. Remove the bolts retaining the accelerator cable bracket to the intake manifold. Remove the speed control cable from the locator. Position the bracket and cables out of the way.

15. WARNING: FUEL SUPPLY LINES ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH FUEL INJECTED ENGINES REMAIN PRESSURIZED FOR LONG PERIODS OF TIME AFTER ENGINE SHUTDOWN. FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE MUST BE RELIEVED PRIOR TO FUEL SYSTEM SERVICE, TO PREVENT POSSIBLE INJURY.

Remove the protective cap from the fuel pressure relief valve. Connect Multiport Fuel Injection (MFI) Fuel Pressure Gauge (EFI/CFI) T80L-9974-B to the fuel pressure relief valve on the fuel injection supply manifold. Place the end of the adapter in a suitable container. Open the manual valve of the tool to relieve the pressure. Close the manual valve and disconnect the tool from the relief valve. Remove the container and install the protective cap on the relief valve.

16. Remove the safety clips from the pressure and return fuel line spring lock couplings at the chassis-to-engine connections (lower left side of the engine).



17. NOTE: Inspect the couplings for missing or damaged O-rings. If either O-ring is damaged, both O-rings must be replaced. Replace the O-rings or garter springs only with the appropriate replacement parts.

Position a Spring Lock Coupling Disconnect Tool D87L-9280-A (3/8-inch), D87L-9280-B (1/2-inch) on the couplings. Push the tool into the cage opening to release the fitting from the garter spring. Remove the tool and pull the coupling apart. Install protective caps over the fuel lines.



18. Remove the fuel line bracket nut from the A/C compressor/power steering bracket stud. Remove the lines and bracket. Position them out of the way.

19. Disconnect the electrical connector from the A/C pressure cutoff switch. Remove the nut retaining the A/C line to the water pump studded bolt.

20. Remove the A/C safety clips at the condenser tube and at the suction accumulator/drier. Install Spring Lock Coupling Disconnect Tool T81P-19623-G1, T81P-19623-G2, T83P-19623-C, or T85L-19623-A to the couplings. Close the tool and push it into the open side of the cage, to expand the garter spring. Release the fitting, remove the tool, and disconnect the fittings. Install protective caps.

21. Disconnect the electrical connector from the A/C compressor clutch and two wire locators from the rear of the compressor. Remove the bolt retaining the A/C manifold and tube to the compressor.

22. Remove the bolts retaining the compressor to the bracket. Separate the A/C manifold and tube from the compressor and remove the compressor. Install protective caps into the compressor. Remove the A/C manifold and tube and install caps.

23. Compress and position the clamps on the heater hoses at the water pump and intake manifold. Remove the hoses and position them out of the way.

24. Disconnect the electrical connections from the generator (GEN) and the wire locator from the generator (GEN) bracket. Position the harness out of the way.

25. Remove the Torx® bolt retaining the accessory drive belt tensioner and remove the tensioner.

26. Disconnect the power steering pressure line from the power steering pump. Install a protective cap over the fitting.

27. Remove the bolts retaining the A/C compressor/power steering pump bracket. Position the bracket and pump forward. Compress and position the clamp on the power steering return hose and disconnect from the power steering pump. Remove the bracket and pump assembly.

28. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the purge valve at the left wheel well. Disconnect the vacuum reservoir vacuum hose from the vacuum connector, located at the right valve cover.

29. Compress the clamp and disconnect the power brake booster vacuum hose from the vacuum tree. Position the hose out of the way.

30. Loosen the bolt of the 42-pin connector at the rear of the left valve cover and separate the connector. Position the connector out of the way.

31. Remove the nut retaining the ground strap to the windshield wiper motor retaining stud and position the ground strap out of the way.

32. Loosen the bolt and disconnect the powertrain control module (PCM) connector. Remove the nut retaining the PCM wiring harness bracket to the bulkhead. Remove the studded bolt retaining the ground wire to the bulkhead. Position the harness over the engine.

33. Disconnect the two 16-pin transmission connectors from the rear of the right cylinder head. Disconnect the right hand heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) connector.

34. NOTE: The right hand bolt retains the upper filler tube.

Remove the two upper converter housing-to-engine retaining bolts and remove the upper filler tube.

35. NOTE: If the engine is not going to be reinstalled, the replacement engine must now be mounted to an engine stand.

Install Engine Lifting Eyes D81L-6001-D or equivalent to the right hand and left hand exhaust manifolds.

36. Raise the vehicle. Refer to «Section 00-02».

37. Drain the engine oil.

38. Remove the bolt and nut retaining the oil filter drain funnel. Remove the starter motor bolts and secure the starter out of the way. Remove the drain funnel.

39. Remove the torque converter dust cover retaining bolts and remove the cover.

40. NOTE: Use the crankshaft pulley bolt to rotate the converter. Mark the converter stud and flexplate to aid during assembly.

Remove and discard the converter-to-flexplate nuts.

41. Remove the exhaust manifold-to-exhaust pipe nuts.

42. Remove the studded bolt retaining the ground cable to the left side of the engine block and position the cable aside.

43. Remove the bolt retaining the transmission oil cooler line bracket to the right rear of the cylinder block.

44. Remove the remaining converter housing-to-engine retaining bolts.

45. Lower the vehicle.

46. Remove the engine mount retaining nuts.

47. NOTE: Position a block of wood on a floor jack, to protect the transmission.

Position the floor jack under the front of the transmission and slightly raise it.

48. Position and connect Floor Crane 077-00043 or equivalent and Modular Engine Lifting Bar 014-00073 or equivalent to the lifting brackets. Slightly raise the engine. Carefully separate the engine from the transmission. Carefully lift the engine out of the engine compartment.

 

Now could you post one for removing a 4.6 from a F-150. Where the heck did you find that cut and paste???????

I was quoted $5150 then add 2 taxes as I'm lucky enough to be Canadian, right from Merlin Ford Saskatoon Saskatchewan. Now thats sitting on the floor. They also want 500 core charge. But then it's brand new.
I was quoted $38oo to have it rebuilt at a local shop.
Both those ways are quoting zero for removal and reinstall.

Shop rate here is running 93 bucks a hour. If any Ford shop in Canada can remove and install an engine in 3 or 4 hours, I'll eat it.
I'll bet the removal alone of your old block will run WAY over the 3 hours quoted.
I'm betting 2 days. Now add in oil, filter, Trans fluid, antifreeze, new plugs, shop towels and supplies, yadda yadda.
My sister bought a used Dakota in Vancouver 102,000k. It blew up just outside of Golden BC. 700 bucks to have it towed to Calgary. Calgary Crysler quote to slip in a REMANUFACTURED 4.9Lt was just a wee but shy of 12,000 bucks. I stood there while she broke down and cried.
If your towed in and drive out with warranty,,,,,,please please go for that quote and smile smile smile.

 

> Now could you post one for removing a 4.6 from a F-150.

Sorry, I do not think I have the CD for that.

> Where the heck did you find that cut and paste?

Ford CD-ROM repair manual.

 

Too bad you did not have one it is very detailed and useful

 

Now I know why I'm switching my Fleet of junk to GM. Crate motors, & Reman Trannys, 3 years 100,000 miles. All backed by GM, so any dealership can warranty them.
I will keep my only Ford left my 1986 F250 4x4, 460, C-6.
$4000 isn't that bad complete. But I agree maybe try an independent mechanic. Does Ford warranty there crate motors if a dealer doesn't install them? GM does.

 

IIRC, Ford used to pay 8 hours for a crate motor on an f-150. (1996 -up) under warranty. CP was about 12 hours. This included lifting the cab!!! If you have access to a lift, raising cab to do the motor actually gets the job done in less time and makes the job a ton easier. It can be done from under the hood, but you won't be happy while you're doing it,

 

Flat rate is probably 12+ hours, actual time is probably around 8. I've done a 302 and a 305 in 8 hours, 4.0 Explorer took me about 10, Aerostar was about 12. I did a 5.4 in about 2 days LOL!

 

Why would you spend $4000 on a truck that's worth $3000

Just buy another ranger for $3000 and use your blowed up one for spare parts.

Spending $4K on a 8 yr old ranger......You're screwin yourself

 

You got it backward. It Paid 8 hours and took 12. That's warranty time. I think Customer Pay was around 12 hours.

 

Yeah it's amazing the difference warranty pay is compared to customer pay. Ford really screws over their mechanics big time. Can't make any money on warranty claims that's for sure.

 

When my truck turned 100,000 last year i istarted saving for a new crate motor for the long run i figured if it last to 200,000 i will be ready !!!

Same thing for my trans a new 4R7OW thew the dealer with a 3/yr 3600 warranty $2600 Think ahead !!!

Why buy new when i have no truck payments !!!

 

PM me. I think i can help.