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I am in need of upgrading my stock 351 power supply. With factory running lights, headlights, and aftermarket fog lights my voltage indicator will run to the left of the N in normal when I am at a stop. Once I am moving again the power is back to par.
I would like to add a compressor and inverter this summer so here is what I am thinking: I can add a second battery with a solid state isolator so that I am able to run the accessories while camping and add future toys. I should also go with a larger alternator. Would this eliminate my current problem of dim lights at a stop?
Also, what amperage and brands are preferred for an alternator?
Would this eliminate my current problem of dim lights at a stop?
Not necessarily. I would check the idle speed and the belt/pulley to see if they are ok. Fuel injected motors are famous for the throttle body and IAC motor getting clogged with carbon, which would affect the idle speed.
Voltage regulators don't usually send a signal to the alt until the engine RPM gets to about 850-900 RPM.
anything less will put a drain on the system when everything is on.
That's why we test the charging system in stages.
One thing at a time watching the charging value.
1) Headlights on
2) Wipers on
3) Heater motor (on high) on
4) Nothing on.
You could run higher draw items by using Relay's with an Aux battery.
Battery isolators IMO work the best.
I don't know the charging values of newer alts.
I assume you are asking about the 96 ?
Dave, I checked the air passages and they are clean. I think that it is due to the idle being around 800. Would I solve my power woes by going with the two battery set-up?
Battery Isolator is fine but You would do more by running the Headlights & Fog light thru relays instead of directly thru the headlight switch or a toggle switch.
What size battery do you have and how many CCA rating?
I am currently running the Optima Red Top 34/78 that is rated at 800 CCA @ 0 F and 50 amp hours. I am interested in your relay idea Dennis, how involved is the change-over?