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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Fuel pump question

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Old Jan 6, 2007 | 02:14 PM
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Question Fuel pump question

the truck: 86 f150 302 efi 4spd dual tanks

the story:
I was driving down the road last night and hit a little bump where a manhole cover was sunk down in the asphalt and the truck died and wouldn't restart, so I coasted it to where I could work on it... anyway turns out when I turn the key to the on position the fuel pump doesn't come on. I figure when I hit the bump some electrical connection somewhere knocked loose but I can't seem to find it.. also is it possible that the connecter was shook loose on the low pressure tank pump causing the high pressure frame mounted pump not to go? I'm pretty much guessing right now

any help will be appreciated =)
thanks,
-Carter
 
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Old Jan 6, 2007 | 02:55 PM
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86Stepside
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I had a similar problem a few months ago. Stopped to fill up gas, when I tried to start it to leave it would just turn over and not start up. After digging around I found a small crack in the fuseable link for the h.p. pump. after I replaced that it was fine.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2007 | 03:00 PM
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is that on the wire running from the neg battery post?
I was just out there messing with it and when I turn the key to on with the hood up I can hear the relay clicking when the pump should be kicking on and again when it should be going off.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2007 | 03:28 PM
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86Stepside
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The fuseable links are connected to the positive side fo the solinoid on the right inner fender, there should be about three of them, but I don't remember what color the f.p. link is.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2007 | 03:33 PM
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how about the fuel inertia switch under the dash?
 
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Old Jan 6, 2007 | 03:54 PM
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I went out to check the fusible links off the solenoid. I read up a bit on fusible links and it said the best way to test them was to gently tug them.. if they're bad they'll stretch like a rubber band.. anyway I did that and the one I think was probably blue at one time did stretch so maybe and hopefully thats all there is to it.. now I just need a ride to advance =)

Havi,
hehe that was the first thing my dad suggested when I told him what had happened =) unfortunatlly no luck there =(

Thank you again for helping me =) I will post an update after the link is replaced but feel free to keep putting out suggestions.
I've only had the truck for about a year and I've replaced the waterpump along with the timing chain cover gasket, reinforced the firewall to reduce flex where the hydraulic clutch cylinder attaches, and several other less irritating repairs and havent taken it into the shop yet.. one of the reasons I love these older autos is that I CAN work on them and I'm always on the lookout for more knowledge on the subject. I sure do hate it when it breaks down but I appreciate that it gives me the opportunity to learn more about it =)
 
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Old Jan 6, 2007 | 07:20 PM
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The wires on my inertia switch corroded and fell off after an accident a few years ago. After trying everything else I gave the wires a tug at the firewall and they both slid thru the grommet. With time being short I wired the two bare ends together and taped them. Truck fired on the first try. Maybe, could be..........if not the fusible link.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2007 | 08:49 PM
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fuel pump relay on the firewall, driver's side, behind a plastic cover, relay should be green. Another spot to check is the small black wire that goes to the neg. battery post.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2007 | 06:46 PM
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Smile

Finally got her fixed, after a setback.. story is I went and bought the only fuse link for ford I could find at advance, came back home and worked on it in the rain .. every thing was wet but I didn't think that would hurt anything. I disconnected the battery and crimped the replacement link into place.. so far so good. then I slide the neg battery cable back on and the wire pops sizzles and fries before I can yank the cable back off. So I get mad and go back inside.. end up getting a new stretch of wire to go from the fuse link to the relay but I had to wait for my dad to come over and help me (I don't have much of a clue when it comes to electrical problems and I'm scared to screw something up) The new fuse link I got was way too big.. I think it was 14ga.. but that shouldn't have melted the wire unless there was a short somewhere right?.. anyways my dad came and showed me how to read a wiring diagram and we replaced the wire.. we couldn't reproduce the short that fried the last wire though (I think it was that the old wire was cracked in a spot and being wet the water shorted to ground somewhere along the length?) Anyway it runs fine now and thats fine with me.

One last Question though this time when we replaced the wire we added an inline blade type fuse and I'm wondering what amp rating fuse should I use in that application?.. the original fuse link was 20ga and the wire its protecting is 16ga. right now I've got a 20amp fuse in the inline but I was thinking maybe I should put a 15 or so in it?

Thanks again for helping me out I don't know if I'd have ever found that broken fuse link without you guys here.
 
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