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Not trying to bash anybody, but when I was little, I asked my grandma what kinda guys lowered trucks, and she replied "those that squat to pee." lol. Ever since that day, I've not looked at lowered trucks the same way...My neighbor has two 92-96 shortbed Flaresides that are kinda low, they look awesome, I don't know if I'd like a 73-79 that was low though, but its not my truck, so to each his own.
Well, your Grandma was wrong!!! Lot's of very fine looking lowered trucks out there and some of them are the 73-79 Fords. We are all entitled to our own opinion. I guess I just don't see a lot of us lowered guys going on a thread about lifted trucks and saying "Why would you do that?" Heck, I've even seem some of the stock restoration stuff that I would say looks ok.... If you've never ridden in one of these old Fords that are lowered and have some quality engineering and components in the mod, you would never believe how awesome they can handle!!!!
IMO, the only trucks that look okay lowered are the 80-90 Rangers.
These 73-79 F-series were made for working
Well, you are certainly entitled to your opinion.... But in MY OPINION, these trucks should have allready fulfilled their lives as work trucks, and deserve to be modded in such a manner that they become very enjoyable drivers and in a lot of cases even an awesome looking show truck.... Work trucks IMO are F-350's with diesels and big power, then you can really work a truck. Until I got my Toter, had an F-350 Crew Cab Diesel that would cruise down the Interstate all day long at 80mph with 2 cars in the trailer, enough spare parts for a dozen nights of racing, and 5 guys riding comfortably in the cab... Now THAT'S a WORK TRUCK!!!!
you know in my opinion all of your opinions are great. to each his own. what would be even greater would be if some one started a thread about different opinions about lowering or working a truck to death. out of all these posts only a few actually help with my orginal question and reason for taking the time to start the thread. going off topic and asking me why i want to lower my truck is useless blabber. do you search forums looking for threads to get off topic? sure it gets your post count up so everyone thinks your a beter man cause you contribute so much. when they dont know that you really have nothing to offer????
to the guys helping me and others with usefully information i thank you. to the others thanks but no thanks.
My Ranger comment was made because I thought they make a nicer looking lowered truck than an F-series and it might be considered an option.
The F-series wheel alignment is configured to have all the parts as they made to sustain a healthy situation for the suspension.
ie: weak front springs throws the alignment out.
But, IMO, To each his own.
But now you see, I stand up for guys like you that don't like getting their threads high-jacked by others.......
ie: Threads that shouldn't even be in this forum
.....and then I get reamed out by more of "Off-topic People" that think anything goes in this forum.Now I getting reamed out from the OP that gets his thread high-jacked
Now, would you like me to search for Lowered Truck threads for you or not?
I have probably linked to more Lowering related threads than anyone on here.
But,. Surely people can search on their own though.
"Perception" or how to "perceive things correctly" for some ....is sometimes hard to change.
The setup on that truck is pretty much identical to what I am running currently on mine. Dropped I-beams and rear flip kit. This is a very simple setup to install, doesn't require any special tools (other than a big wrench to loosen the bolt holding the radius arm to the i-beam), and anyone with some basic wrenching skills can install all of it in their garage, and drive it to the alignment shop afterwards.
The F-series wheel alignment is configured to have all the parts as they made to sustain a healthy situation for the suspension.
ie: weak front springs throws the alignment out.
That is exactly why they manufacture dropped I-beams. These kits, such as the one that DJM manufacturers, give up no alignment compromise to the stock suspension, since the stock springs are still used and stock camber is still maintained. The truck will have to have a front-end alignment after installation (just like after installation of any front-end suspension component), but all they have to do is adjust the toe-in specs.
how low can i go with the front and not need ibeams but still be able to align it
Like I said earlier in the post, LMC Truck sells 2" drop springs that supposedly will still keep your camber within safe specifications, but you will still end up with some negative camber. I assume that the truck can be aligned correctly with this amount of drop, but you will be able to see the negative camber. You will get the same look of a truck that has sagging front springs.
how low can i go with the front and not need ibeams but still be able to align it
I took 1" of vertical height off the coils (new ones for a V-8 1/2 ton) and got right at 2" of lowering, maybe a bit more. I also moved the bump stop to the outside of the frame rail, just made an "L" shaped bracket with gussets and welded it to the outside of the frame rail. Probably not essential to move the bump stop, but it did gain me about 1 1/2" of travel without contacting the bump stop. The camber is very close, should be able to correct the little bit it is off with the old fashioned chain and bottle jack on the I-beams.... The same method alignment shops used years ago on straight axle cars. Kind of tough nowadays to find a shop that will do it, might want to check with a shop that does alignment on big trucks, they have to tweak those axles to get proper camber, too. Mine is a "retired" truck, so being able to haul a bunch of weight in the box is not an issue, matter of fact the first clown that tosses something into the box could be facing a fate worse then death!!!!!
I did the flip on the rear, and moved the shocks to outboard on the frame rails to help the ride and handling.... KYB gas charged shocks all around. The truck sets level now, should be down about 1/2" in the front by the time I get the rest of the accessories bolted on the front. Pics in my gallery if you are interested....
Hope this helps, any other questions let ne know.... Next one might get some restructurring on the front crossmember for clearance, and a set of coilovers instead of coil springs and shocks.....The jury is still out on this set up, more mock up and evaluating to do...
Last edited by Dave Severson; Jan 9, 2007 at 06:26 AM.
thanks alot i have abuddy at an alignment shop that said hes done it before. but i wanted to see if i could bend it more or in several spots to get more drop
thanks alot i have abuddy at an alignment shop that said hes done it before. but i wanted to see if i could bend it more or in several spots to get more drop
Hadn't really thought about it, but i suppose you could. I've also been considring boring the frame end of the I-beams and making an offset bushing for it to fine tune the camber after the tweaking with the chains and jack is over.... Haven't had the time to fab anything for it yet, got to try it some day....
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