7.3 versus 6.9
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 588
Likes: 0
I think what Dave S. is saying, when it comes time to rebuild that your better off with a 6.9 and if take a look at his + & - list he incorporates a lot of 7.3 features. If your IDI has been properly maintained, you have many more miles on it before any kind of a rebuild is needed.
You have to realize that Dave S. has taken his IDI to a whole new level...running 20 to 30lb boost is unheard for an IDI.
I'm assumming you have a turbo, so if you do the air intake mods, turn up your IP and go with 4inch exhaust, I think you will be happy with your 7.3 IDI
You have to realize that Dave S. has taken his IDI to a whole new level...running 20 to 30lb boost is unheard for an IDI.
I'm assumming you have a turbo, so if you do the air intake mods, turn up your IP and go with 4inch exhaust, I think you will be happy with your 7.3 IDI
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
Other than "cosmetic" changes all the 7.3 IDI engines were the same engine block, 88 thru 94. Same thin cylinder walls, same coolant passages blocked off, same everything.
You can't bore any of the 7.3 blocks without sleeving the cylinders unless you are the willing to lose everything you put in the rebuild and the engine.
After two years of nothing but problems and three cracked blocks from dropped sleeves, I will never own another sleeved engine.
The only good thing that came out of the 7.3 engine for me was after owning three of them and doing four swaps in under two years, I can swap a turbo engine in under 10 hours.
Some of the 7.3 turbo motors from the factory has larger wrist pins, but that was it for changes.
Bottom line, there is nothing wrong with the 7.3 engine if you stay on top of the SCA levels, untill you want to rebuild it. Then it is a 1200 pound boat anchor in my book.
With a good machinist you can get three rebuilds out of a 6.9 block and have a factory fresh engine four times.
The largest taper in my block was 7 thousandths of an inch.
My machinist took his time and got clean cylinder bores by only taking out 10 thousandths. So I can bore it again when it wears out the next time.
The guy that does my drive line work for me took it for a spin after we put the Dana 60 under the front. When he came back all he sais was, man that thing runs good.
He owns a 2006 F350 6.0 Power Stroke.
You can't bore any of the 7.3 blocks without sleeving the cylinders unless you are the willing to lose everything you put in the rebuild and the engine.
After two years of nothing but problems and three cracked blocks from dropped sleeves, I will never own another sleeved engine.
The only good thing that came out of the 7.3 engine for me was after owning three of them and doing four swaps in under two years, I can swap a turbo engine in under 10 hours.
Some of the 7.3 turbo motors from the factory has larger wrist pins, but that was it for changes.
Bottom line, there is nothing wrong with the 7.3 engine if you stay on top of the SCA levels, untill you want to rebuild it. Then it is a 1200 pound boat anchor in my book.
With a good machinist you can get three rebuilds out of a 6.9 block and have a factory fresh engine four times.
The largest taper in my block was 7 thousandths of an inch.
My machinist took his time and got clean cylinder bores by only taking out 10 thousandths. So I can bore it again when it wears out the next time.
The guy that does my drive line work for me took it for a spin after we put the Dana 60 under the front. When he came back all he sais was, man that thing runs good.
He owns a 2006 F350 6.0 Power Stroke.
