I just got the heads for my flathead back from the machine shop yesterday. No cracks. One was pretty twisted though, it took three passes to get it surfaced. That could explain a lot of my problems.

Anyway, I figured the bolts would be readily available. Unfortunately, nobody has them as they have been backordered for months. RedsHeaders says he can get them from New York, but it will take 1-2 weeks. The guy that machined them said that originally there were studs in the block with nuts holding the heads on. Is this true? If so is there anything special I would need to know about changing them back? If I can go get some allthread studs and a bunch of nuts, that would speed me up. I was referred to a place called ABABA Bolt here in SD that is supposed to have everything. If that won't work, can I just go try to match up my bolts with something they have or is there something special about those bolts that I would need to wait and get the ones specifically for this? Does the bolt have to be an exact thickness in order to line up the heads with the cylinders and valves?

Also, with the heads off is it OK to turn the crankshaft to get the pistons and valves to move so I can wipe them out? The distributer is still sitting there so it seems like I am not going to mess with the alignment of anything right? What would you recommend I wipe the inside of the cylinders with, pb blaster, wd 40, ...?

Thanks for the help
Kevin

 

If your engine is a late series flathead (48-53) it had bolts, not studs/nuts. 59A series flatheads and earlier used studs/nuts - your machinist probably remembers the older one. You can use studs with the late engine if you want.

Advantage to bolts - the head is easier to remove if/when you get the bolts out. Disadvantage - every time you install/remove the bolts you cause a slight amount of wear to the threads

Advantage with studs - less wear on the threads in the block and a little easier to get the torque just right because the top half is fine thread. Disadvantage - when all the studs have some corrosion built up between the stud and head it can be a major effort to remove the head cause you have to lift it up off the studs and 24 of them are holding on tight.

I prefer bolts.

Basically you can use a grade 8 bolt in the proper length - two different lengths used on each head - the lower row is shorter.

You might check with Hot Rod and Custom Supply in Coral Gables, Florida

No problem turning the engine over with the head off, in fact it's the easy to find #1 TDC compression stroke - both valves closed. Cylinder walls can be wiped with any of the liquids you mentioned.

 

Thanks for the help.

Kevin