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Well, I'm finally getting started on restoring my 84 F-150. You can see it in the gallery. I have been trying to get bids on the body work for a couple of months now. I had it at a body shop for a month, but as soon as they got it they started talking about what a big job it was and how it was going to cost a lot. So I had a tow truck go get it while I was out of town working. They sent my truck to the side of a road in another town. I had the police go find it and I recovered it to my drive way. Now it is at another body shop where I have a bid for the work, but it is not written up yet. Are all body shops like this? I am looking for a bored out short block. I've seen several suppliers on the web, but I want to keep the price down. I saw one out of Phoenix for 999 plus 150 shipping. I can get one from Thunderbolt for 500 and just drive up and get it. How can I tell, before assembling the whole engine, that the work on the block is good? Looking for several parts now. Please check the want ads and see if you have what I need. Big job ahead. Lots of fun and I am sure a few cuss words.
No way. I don't have the skill required to tap out dents or replace steel. I can do bondo and fiberglass and I have done some spray painting before. But I also have little time to do the work.
Well, I'm finally getting started on restoring my 84 F-150. You can see it in the gallery. I have been trying to get bids on the body work for a couple of months now. I had it at a body shop for a month, but as soon as they got it they started talking about what a big job it was and how it was going to cost a lot. So I had a tow truck go get it while I was out of town working. They sent my truck to the side of a road in another town. I had the police go find it and I recovered it to my drive way. Now it is at another body shop where I have a bid for the work, but it is not written up yet. Are all body shops like this? I am looking for a bored out short block. I've seen several suppliers on the web, but I want to keep the price down. I saw one out of Phoenix for 999 plus 150 shipping. I can get one from Thunderbolt for 500 and just drive up and get it. How can I tell, before assembling the whole engine, that the work on the block is good? Looking for several parts now. Please check the want ads and see if you have what I need. Big job ahead. Lots of fun and I am sure a few cuss words.
No not all body shops are like that. Anybody worth their salt knows how much a paint job will cost. The only difficult task is the repair estimate to damaged panels. For that there is a book. Any experienced body person can give a rough estimate right on the spot. Seems to me like the first shop did not want the job. Big shops that do a lot of collision work don't usually cater to restoration. Insurance jobs are fast money. Restoration work is slow and unprofitable to a fast turn over collision shop.
Rusted panels can be sectioned with new replacement panels. Ding and small dents can be worked back to original but this all takes time. The more you do yourself the less it will cost in the end. Small shops like to see the original before any work has been done and any good small shop will advise you on what you might get ready first to help reduce costs.
There is a lot of pride in doing your own work when the end product looks and runs like new again. Bored engine blocks, special cams, custom heads, are best left to the professionals. Discuss what you expect from your power plant first, then listen to the suggestions. Take your time BEFORE the build to get as many suggestions as possible.
Last edited by 82F1507.5; Jan 1, 2007 at 10:22 PM.