rebuilding a carb
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New User
Joined: Dec 2006
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rebuilding a carb
i have a '76 F150, its been in storage for almost two years. It has some carb troubles and i know i need to rebuild the carb. I think its a holley but im not sure. I don't know any thing about rebuilding a carb...i'd really appreciate the advice...any takers???
New User
Joined: Jan 2008
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Welcome to the site.
You can also get info from these pages.
http://www.ponycarburetors.com/defau...s#autolite2100
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d800acdd5.jsp
You can also get info from these pages.
http://www.ponycarburetors.com/defau...s#autolite2100
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d800acdd5.jsp
Last edited by IB Tim; Dec 30, 2006 at 07:14 AM.
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
I'll throw in my advice too. There are four major steps: disassembling the carb, cleaning the metal parts, rebuilding with a kit, and tuning.
Get yourself a gallon can of chem-dip for the metal parts. They come with a tray to drop the parts down in. I can never fit the throttle body and air horn in the can, so i dump the can into a bucket and work from there. Don't touch or smell the stuff...it's pretty bad. Don't touch parts that have been soaked in it either, until you clean them off. The dipping tray is really useful for all the small parts. Only clean metal parts...don't clean the float. Many of the rubber or paper parts will be replaced with the kit.
Soak the metal parts in chem-dip for an hour. Then take them out (with plyers or whatever you can use to avoid touching the stuff) and lie everything out. You need to get all the chem-dip and remaining gunk off, so spray everything down with a couple cans of spray carb cleaner and let them dry. Don't touch or breathe the spray stuff, either. It's also a good idea to blow out the small passages in the carb with compressed air, but make sure you wear goggles because gunk in there can get you in the face.
When you're at the parts store you'll need a rebuild kit for your carburetor. The guy will need the numbers off the carb. The kit will contain replacements for all the parts that suffer from wear. Don't throw anything away off the old carb, though, until you know the kit has a replacement that fits. The kit will come with a blowup diagram of the carb, and each part will be numbered in a general order to put it back together. This will come in handy. It will also have little notes here and there on how to align and set things up as you go. The big thing will be setting the float height.
A few other pointers. Don't use the carburetor base to manifold gaskets that come with the kit, unless it's the thick kind. Paper gaskets under a carburetor are useless. I always order quality gaskets from Fel-Pro. If your truck has an EGR spacer plate under the carb, now is a good time to replace not only the carb base gasket but also the spacer-to-manifold gasket, because you disrupt the seal by removing the carburetor. This is only if you have EGR though. Make sure you use a new fuel filter when you install the carburetor.
Get yourself a gallon can of chem-dip for the metal parts. They come with a tray to drop the parts down in. I can never fit the throttle body and air horn in the can, so i dump the can into a bucket and work from there. Don't touch or smell the stuff...it's pretty bad. Don't touch parts that have been soaked in it either, until you clean them off. The dipping tray is really useful for all the small parts. Only clean metal parts...don't clean the float. Many of the rubber or paper parts will be replaced with the kit.
Soak the metal parts in chem-dip for an hour. Then take them out (with plyers or whatever you can use to avoid touching the stuff) and lie everything out. You need to get all the chem-dip and remaining gunk off, so spray everything down with a couple cans of spray carb cleaner and let them dry. Don't touch or breathe the spray stuff, either. It's also a good idea to blow out the small passages in the carb with compressed air, but make sure you wear goggles because gunk in there can get you in the face.
When you're at the parts store you'll need a rebuild kit for your carburetor. The guy will need the numbers off the carb. The kit will contain replacements for all the parts that suffer from wear. Don't throw anything away off the old carb, though, until you know the kit has a replacement that fits. The kit will come with a blowup diagram of the carb, and each part will be numbered in a general order to put it back together. This will come in handy. It will also have little notes here and there on how to align and set things up as you go. The big thing will be setting the float height.
A few other pointers. Don't use the carburetor base to manifold gaskets that come with the kit, unless it's the thick kind. Paper gaskets under a carburetor are useless. I always order quality gaskets from Fel-Pro. If your truck has an EGR spacer plate under the carb, now is a good time to replace not only the carb base gasket but also the spacer-to-manifold gasket, because you disrupt the seal by removing the carburetor. This is only if you have EGR though. Make sure you use a new fuel filter when you install the carburetor.
Last edited by fmc400; Jan 1, 2007 at 11:10 PM.
