Help!! Anyone know of a good place (or person) to get some technical info on a Ford Zetec 2.0L?? I'm having some lube system issues with my daughter's '96 Mercury Mistake...er, um....Mystique, and it's really got me puzzled.

I've done some searching on the 'net but all I've come up with are sites devoted to modifying for racing/performance, and message boards that have been no help at all. I even tried our local Ford dealer, but they were totally clueless. Seems like if they can't plug a scanner or laptop into it they don't know where to start. (More "computer operator" than "technician" or "mechanic" if you ask me)

I'd like be able to communicate with someone who is familiar with the inner workings of this particular engine. I've been a service tech myself for the last thiry years, and have built uncounted engines over the years, but this is the first Zetec I've been into. Anybody out there been inside of one of these things?

The short version of the issue is...low oil pressure on fresh rebuild. It's been quite the long and drawn-out process so I'll spare you those details, but it was bored .020"us, polished in-spec crank, new pistons/rings and bearings. The oil pump looked good (no scratching, etc.) was in spec and is capable of flowing enough oil to make over 100psi in this engine (don't ask me how I know...lol) In the engine's "current configuration" it's making less than 10psi at idle when cold. Pressure max 25-30psi @ 2000-2500rpm.

Anybody have any thoughts?.....Anybody????

 

The #1 problem is that you're working on a Mistake. My condolences.

I haven't had the bottom end apart on one these so this is just thinking out loud.
I assume you've verified that the gauge you're using is good?
How are you sure the oil pump is capable of putting out that much oil? If it really is then you've got a really big leak somewhere, such as a stuck relief valve.
Any chance you've got a problem with the gasket between the oil pump and the block causing an internal leak?
Oil pump pickup sucking air?
What are your bearing clearances?
Are the cams bores and can journals good?
Is it possible to put the oil pump gears in backwards?

 

[QUOTE=Racerguy]The #1 problem is that you're working on a Mistake. My condolences.
Thanks...all sympathy is appreciated. LOL

I haven't had the bottom end apart on one these so this is just thinking out loud.
I assume you've verified that the gauge you're using is good?
Yes, the gauge is defiintely operating properly. As I found out, so is the idiot light in the dash.

How are you sure the oil pump is capable of putting out that much oil? If it really is then you've got a really big leak somewhere, such as a stuck relief valve.
Well...this is just a part of a long story, but at one point I believed I may have installed the relief valve spring backwards (thanks to the advisement of a NAPA reman supplier, following a conversation with the local Ford dealer, and considering the symptoms I was seeing at the time...) so I pulled it out and turned it around.

The spring has a stamped steel cap on one end that would prevent it from slipping up into the cavity of the relief plunger, thus increasing relief pressure substantially. At idle the engine then carried 20-30psi and the pressure would rise quickly with rpm. One very quick rev up to 3000rpm instantly pegged out the 100psi gauge, and the lifters pumped up so much it wouldn't run. (Gave the lifters time to bleed down and it ran fine...). So I would conclude that this pump will move enough oil to create 100psi. I've since turned the spring back around to the position I started with, and I'm back to low pressure again.

Any chance you've got a problem with the gasket between the oil pump and the block causing an internal leak?
Oil pump pickup sucking air?
These are possibilities I'm definitely pondering. These areas all have new gaskets, torqued to spec, and I normally wouldn't suspect a problem here but considering the circumstances I have to wonder. I've already had this engine out of the car three times (first one was to do the rebuild) because it's impossible to get the pan off with it in the car. It's no small job and for an old fart like me it takes some time to do. I'm going to have to pull it a forth time, but I DO NOT want to make it five, so I'd really like to feel certain I'm not overlooking something.

What are your bearing clearances?
All clearances are in spec...some are near or at the max, but not so much that it would have this great of effect.

Are the cams bores and can journals good?
In spec, no scratching or scoring.

Is it possible to put the oil pump gears in backwards?
Possible, but I noted the markings on the rotors and I'm sure I installed them the same way I took them out. This engine uses a rotor-type oil pump that is installed over the nose of the crankshaft and acts as the front cover of the engine. (I've seen Japanese engines built this way). This means you can't stick a drill to it and spin it to prime things up. I had to take an extra oil pump for my mini-stock's 2.3 and fabricate plumbing to tie into the main oil galley. Ran that pump with a drill to prime the system and do some testing.

I'm wondering if I may have missed a seal, gasket, or otherwise somewhere. I had no leftover parts, but (as usual) there are a few gaskets left from the kit that I believe are variations of the same application depending on year/design. If I could find a complete breakdown of the engine, like found in a parts book, it might answer some questions. The parts man at the Ford dealer said his listings don't break down the oil pump itself, only the pump as a complete assembly.

At this point I'm willing to consider almost any possibility, so ANY ideas or thoughts are more than welcome! If anyone happens across a site that covers these engines, let me know, if you would be so kind...

 

The fact that with the pressure relief turned around the oil pump is capable of producing that much oil pressure leads me to think that the problem is somehow with the relief. The system has to be sealed up pretty well to allow it to build 100 psi.
The Ford shop manual is vague as far as the oil pump goes. It doesn't show a breakdown of it or any details that I can find. I wonder if it's worth getting a brand new pump assembly from Ford rather than an aftermarket one?

 

Sounds like you're thinking along the same lines as I am. Normally I wouldn't hesitate to replace the entire pump assembly, but I know that NAPA's price is upwards of $250 for one, and I'd imagine the Ford part would be similar or higher. Advance Auto Parts lists one on their website (a Melling pump) for about $150. I just hate to throw money at this stupid thing, especially when I'm not fully confident it will fix problem.

It's going to be a few days at least before I get "hands on" with it again, so I'm going to keep looking, listening and researching for any info I can get my hands on. All input appreciated!!