OOPS!!!!
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OOPS!!!!
When in the process of doing the Toyota power steering conversion on my 59 F-100 I brilliantly decided to cut about 1 inch off the input shaft on the Toyota steering box to gain more room between the firewall and the universal joint on the gearbox. Much to my surprise when I cut it off, the input shaft is not a solid piece, it is a shaft inside of another shaft. Now my dilema is --- is there fluid pressure on this part of the unit and now that I have distubed the seal will I have a major gusher when I fire it up, or will a little silicon sealer on the end fix it up. Anyone else comitted this same offense, and how did it work out? To anyone else thinking of this hairbrained scheme might be well advised to hold off till someone can shed some light on this situation!!!!
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OOPS!!!!
I not an expert on power steeriing, but.... Why would ther be
pressure in the input shaft if all it does is turn? What does the other end you cut off look like? was it welded inside, maybe
they just used 2 pieces rather than an expensive, heavier solid piece? Do you have a picture of both ends? It shouldn't have any pressure inside that shaft. That part of a power steering box should work just as a standard box. Let us know what ya turn up with. I'd be interested in doing the same thing later to my 59 f-250.
just my 2½ cents,
James
pressure in the input shaft if all it does is turn? What does the other end you cut off look like? was it welded inside, maybe
they just used 2 pieces rather than an expensive, heavier solid piece? Do you have a picture of both ends? It shouldn't have any pressure inside that shaft. That part of a power steering box should work just as a standard box. Let us know what ya turn up with. I'd be interested in doing the same thing later to my 59 f-250.
just my 2½ cents,
James
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OOPS!!!!
Mike at Bob's F-100 returned my call today and was very helpful in providing info on this situation. The shaft inside of a shaft arrangement is part of the valve assembly and he confirmed my worst fears that unless I can find a way to reseal the shaft back up by welding or some other such solution--- It has become 20 lbs. of scrap iron!!! It will be very difficult if not impossible to weld due to 2 factors...
1. Oil will leak out and contaminate the process.
2. There is a nylon bushing between the two shafts and it may melt and disable the function of the valve assembly.
So.... the lesson that I would like to pass to those considering this swap...NEVER EVER CUT THE INPUT SHAFT ON A TOYOTA STEERING GEAR BOX!!!!!!
1. Oil will leak out and contaminate the process.
2. There is a nylon bushing between the two shafts and it may melt and disable the function of the valve assembly.
So.... the lesson that I would like to pass to those considering this swap...NEVER EVER CUT THE INPUT SHAFT ON A TOYOTA STEERING GEAR BOX!!!!!!
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OOPS!!!!
you can always try the J.B.WELD avenue. If the torsion strength
is a question, drill and insert a pin through the shafts then tack weld the ends.(heat shouldn't be an issue for that small of
an area) or you can even J.B. weld that as well. I've used it in
high pressure cases, some as high as 80psi. held fine. As long as it's not too big of a gap and you can get enough in to the space. OR....... Can any kind of plug be pressed or threaded into the tube?? Just trying to help with any possible solution.
(It's hard to tell not knowing exactly what it looks like)Hopefully it just ends up being a temporary brain teaser and you figure it out without having to spend too much money.
GOOD LUCK. keep us informed.
James
is a question, drill and insert a pin through the shafts then tack weld the ends.(heat shouldn't be an issue for that small of
an area) or you can even J.B. weld that as well. I've used it in
high pressure cases, some as high as 80psi. held fine. As long as it's not too big of a gap and you can get enough in to the space. OR....... Can any kind of plug be pressed or threaded into the tube?? Just trying to help with any possible solution.
(It's hard to tell not knowing exactly what it looks like)Hopefully it just ends up being a temporary brain teaser and you figure it out without having to spend too much money.
GOOD LUCK. keep us informed.
James
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OOPS!!!!
I think the two shafts have to move independently of each other so that rules out the JB weld, however that was an excellent idea. I'm probably going to try welding just the very tinyiest spot at a time and quenching with a wet rag and allowing it to cool completely before making another weld. I just hope I have been able to save even one other person from making this same mistake. I think that is what this forum is about.
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OOPS!!!!
I TIG welded a washer over the end of the shaft which completly sealed the end. I was wrong about the nylon bushing, it is just a shaft inside of another shaft. I quenched it with a wet rag as I welded small sections at a time.. Maybe it will still be O.K. The lesson still stands that you will create a tremendous amount of frustration by cutting the end off a Toyota steering box.
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