Gate question....second try
Thread Starter
|
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,689
Likes: 29
Gate question....second try
I have a gate that was installed by a previous owner. Its about 8' wide, maybe 6' tall or so it is custom built so far as i can tell. Its all wrought iron. The hinges have grease fittings and are welded to the gate and post. the post is about 6" in diameter, set in concrete and is 10' high ish. Its very solid, no obvious movement. The gate latch doesnt line up with the hole in the post. Because the posts are solid, i assume its simply because the iron of the gate has 'relaxed' over the years. There is no adjustment and i place a car jack under one end and sort of leveled it back out, which worked for a couple of weeks.
I dont want to do that over and over again. What is a good way to fix this? The only thing i can up with is a truss running diagonally on the gate with a turnbuckle, or some other cable support somewhere.
Any ideas?
I dont want to do that over and over again. What is a good way to fix this? The only thing i can up with is a truss running diagonally on the gate with a turnbuckle, or some other cable support somewhere.
Any ideas?
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 3,818
Likes: 3
You can use the additional four foot of post extension to add a cable with a swivel on the post side and turnbuckle to the far side of the gate. Adjust as necessary to take out the sag. Four feet may not be sufficient height to pull up a really heavy gate so you may need to add an extension piece to the 10' post to get up to where there is at least a 30 degree angle between gate and cable attachment point.
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,848
Likes: 1
From: Kentucky
I had the large steel gates at work that are built as yours are, sag a little. Just enough to make the latches not align to where the padlock would not engage. Being a gated entry to a multimillion dollar piece of property, putting on cables and extra diagonal bracing was not a visually pleasing choice. ...
So, I just cut the latches off and moved them to where they lined up and welded them back on. Let the next guy worry about it if they sag any more
ps. You can buy decorative steel fixtures that may look nice, and weld them in the opposing corners to help stabilize any further sagging.
So, I just cut the latches off and moved them to where they lined up and welded them back on. Let the next guy worry about it if they sag any more
ps. You can buy decorative steel fixtures that may look nice, and weld them in the opposing corners to help stabilize any further sagging.
Last edited by Greg 79 f150; Dec 27, 2006 at 03:24 PM.
The Pacifier
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,245
Likes: 7
From: Cloverdale, BC
It will be endless. Push it up, it'll come back down again. After enough cycles of that, it'll eventually break.
I say go with moving the latch.
I say go with moving the latch.
Trending Topics
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,918
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
I kind of like Mil1ion`s idea better.Sure you can move the latch,but what if it sags more?They sell wheels at just about every hardware store made just for that purpose.I would stick with an air filled tire if it has to roll over dirt or gravel.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,848
Likes: 1
From: Kentucky
Depends on the look needed and really a owner preference. If it was mine , I would go with a diagonal 3/8 inch thick x 1 1/2 wide metal diagonal strapping, before I would a wheel. A wheel will look like you are entering a industrial park or airport. jmo
jmo
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 3,495
Likes: 7
From: Not as far west as I want
are the latches adjustable? Also are the post plumb? Is there any adjustment where the hinges are attached to the post? Or any way to square up the hinges?
A picture would be helpful
A picture would be helpful
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,269
Likes: 0
From: Where's my map???
Over time the terminals will settle and of coarse they will settle in the direction of the most weight. By putting a jack under the gate. You are racking it. It is only a matter of time and the gate will fail from fatigued joints. If you take a come a long and attached it to the top of the terminal and cranked it until you are just past the level point. Then relax it to see if it lines up. Repeat until gates are true. This should last many years without destroying the integrity of the gate itself.
Posting Legend
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 30,255
Likes: 37
Often it is the posts that have sagged. They are set in concrete but is the concrete continuous between the posts? If not the post(s) will gradually move under the large overhung load from the gate. Contrary to popular belief the earth is not solid.
A metal rod with a hidden turnbuckle or nut to pull the top of the posts apart or one upright is sometimes aesthetically better than braces on a nice set of gates.
A metal rod with a hidden turnbuckle or nut to pull the top of the posts apart or one upright is sometimes aesthetically better than braces on a nice set of gates.
Last edited by Torque1st; Dec 28, 2006 at 05:29 AM.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 3,550
Likes: 5
From: Lancaster County PA
I have long ago forgotten the math rquired to figure it out exactly, but I do know that the post would not have to be very far out of plumb to lower the latch 8 feet away by 1/4 or 1/2 inch.
It seems to me that perhaps your original attempt may have simply righted the post ever so slightly, then it settled back in to position.
I opine that Torque1st is on the right track: Put some tension on the top of that post to draw it back to plumb and keep it there.
It seems to me that perhaps your original attempt may have simply righted the post ever so slightly, then it settled back in to position.
I opine that Torque1st is on the right track: Put some tension on the top of that post to draw it back to plumb and keep it there.
Thread Starter
|
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,689
Likes: 29
Torque1st, how do i go about doing this??
I dont understand where the turnbuckle should go. The only problem is that if we ever have large trucks taller than the post come in, then ill have to take that brace down. Im sure the post has settled, but it is still pretty plumb. I think most of the problem is that its a 13.5' gate and has relaxed under the weight of itself. I said 8' earlier, but its 13.5', i measured this morning.
A metal rod with a hidden turnbuckle or nut to pull the top of the posts apart or one upright is sometimes aesthetically better than braces on a nice set of gates.