I just bought a f250 cc super duty 2000 v10 the rear diff cover was leaking and had to be replaced so i can not get the code they never put the tag back on the cover. so my question is where else is the info . btw when going down the road at70ish it is running at about 2000rpms just in case any one needed to know any help would be great.

 

you have the 3.73 rear end with 2000 rpm's @ 70 mph.

 

how will this truck pull with the v10 and the 3.73 gears i have had trucks with the 4's but not the 3' this will also be my first ford truck always been a gm fan still not sure what i like best yet had lotsssss of problems with this ford alraedy but stll giving it a shot.

 

Hey 900rr,

The 3.73's will do the job for you, but you won't feel near the torque or acceleration capapbility of running a v10 with 4.30's or lower. Get a v10 with 4.30's or 4.56's and it will smoke a diesel... just to put it into persepective. The diff cover leaking is a really easy fix, and honestly the best thing to do is surf over to ebay, grab a stainless steel cover for the Sterling 10.5" rear and pop it on in replacement, they look really good!! It doesn't matter though since you just had it replaced.... anyhow, it will tow anything you throw at it because the v10 is that strong, but the gear ratio would definately suit you better at 4.30-4.56 if you tow a lot of weight alot, you'll like that extra "Uumph" you'll get out of the lower gears.

-Casey

 

In my opinion the 4.10 gears are a wast of fuel. You will not notice a difference unless you are towing well over the trucks capacity. I had a 1996 f-350 with a 4.10 and my dad had a 1994 f-350 with the same options excepthe had the 3.55 we both had psd's we both tow heavy loads (8,000 to 16,000 lbs) we would start off from a stop and race, I would jump ahead for a bit then he would catch up. He could pull any hill I could just as I good, but when we were crusing he would be in drive and I would be in overdrive and be at the same rpm's within 50 to 100 and then he would kick it into overdrive and be way less. Oh by the way he used to get 19 to 20 empty constently and I would only get 16 to 18. I'll never own a truck with 4.10's again. I read on the forum that you cannot get a lower ratio than a 3.73 on a single rear wheel anymore only a drw.

 

If i wanted to get the 4.10 or the 4.56 what would it take to switch out any what would the cost be roughly.

 

^^^Apples to oranges don't you think talking PSD?^^^
The V10 has a way broader rpm range. I have 3.73 in mine. I liked the 4.10s better when I test drove one. I really wanted 4.30s, but I never drove one. The way I see it 3.73s to 4.30s is 800rpm difference, but I switch from 265s to 285s it drops 200rpm for a total of 600 rpm gain. So at 62mph instead of 2000rpm I'd be 2600rpm. Wooptie do my hiway mileage might drop some, but my truck won't labor as much. I might just do better in town where most of my driving is done. The 3.73s are fine so far, but I'd perfer the lower gears for my taste.

 

Yamaguy you are right... lower gears are a waste of gas unless you frequently tow heavy loads or you just plain out like pinning yourself to the back of your seat. I have 3.73's and I am gonna be moving to 4.30's or 4.56's because of the lift and tires I just put on my truck... it will even out and be around an effective ratio of 4.23, thus giving me better exceleration and recouping some of my MPG's lost due to the 35's. Around here the change (in a 4x4 vehicle) to due both axles looks to be around $1200. Unless you did it yourself, it's not a terribly difficult install either... I'm planning on saving about $600 and doing it myself... You need the gear and pinion set, master install kit (should include all bearings and shims), new diff fluid and posi-trac goop (if you have an LS), and a good impact wrench and air hammer!!

 

My V10 came with 3.73's and I had them replaced with 4.30's and am extremely satisfied with the performance increase I got from them. I am not concerned with the slight fuel difference because I didn't buy my truck with the vision of high MPG's to begin with.

I ordered my gearsets from Randy's Ring and Pinion online, and I had a local axle shop do the installation. I would do it again without a second thought.

 

That might be true for the 6.0 PSD. I took a quick look at the chart linked below, seems to be that way. Also seems that you can't get the 3.73 gears with the V-10, only 4.10 or 4.30 gear sets so I guess there's no way to compair the 6.0 PSD to the V-10 directly unless someone's got aftermarket gears in one or the other...

Ford offers 3.73, 4.10 and 4.30 gears depending on vehicle and engine combination.

http://www.fordvehicles.com/assets/pdf/towing/07RVf-series9-18.pdf

 

You dont happen to have the part numbers for the parts you ordered? I'm giving this serious thought perparing for next year and towing the big trailers and construction toys. The 3.73's work, yes, but the truck seems to labor somewhat for what it is IMO, I have'nt driven any other V10 so I dont know, but lowering the gearing is always cool Was trying to get a parts list written down for everything needed so I can just ddrop it off at the shop and walk away.

Price wise what was the ballpark you were in? I'll probably go through Jegs in a minute and see what I come up with.

thanks

 

i put 4.56's in about a year ago..........woun't go back. in fact i'm planning on 5.38's around tax time, and i've had a couple offers on the 4.56's but i just can't let them go since i might be in the market for anouther SD.

i did the work myself (wasn't my first gear change thought). gears and install kits cost $575 from JT's Differentials. he cut me a deal since i ordered 3 sets of gears (front and rear for 3 different trucks). so it might be alittle over that.

the rear shouldn't be bad for you at all. the worst thing about the rear is the carrier assbl. that pig weighs about 80lbs once that ring gear is on there. i don't have a pinion depth gauge so i had to install it, check my measurements and make changes from there. i only had to do it 2x though so that wasn't that bad!

the front is just a PITA beacause you have to disassemble the entire front steering components, and hub assemblies. here's ONE case where the sealed bearing hubs are kinda handy!

remember the V10 likes the RPM's! 4.56's and stock tires woun't hurt you as bad as you think! w/ 4.56's and stock 265/75 tires i was running 2100 @ 60 mph. with my 39.5's i'm running about 1800 @ 60mph. and with the 5.38 gear swap i should have the rpm's back up to around 2-2100 according the this web site http://www.accuautoparts.com/

 

A 2000 V-10 came with 3.73 standard. They now come with 4.1 standard. There are other differences in the 2000 and the present V-10. Three valves now two valves per cylinder then. MORE HP now..MORE torque now. The V-10s will run forever with good maintenance. They will cost less to maintain than the 6.0. The 6.0 gets 20-30% better fuel mileage tho..but not as much empty. The V-10 will last 250,000 to 300,000 miles if taken care of. (I know, a friend of mine has a 99' V-10 with 314,000 miles on it. The only thing he has done the the engine is a new water pump. If you go to 4.56 or 5.38s your fuel mileage will suffer. But you will have more power.

 

I have a 99 with a V-10 and 4.30 gears, I pull a 15K goose on a regular basis and it does a great job, I would not change it up or done for what that is worth.
Best of luck.

 

Try this link to the thread on the gears. Look at posting #84.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...th-my-v10.html

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www.yukongear.com

You can load their catalog and look up the gearsets. Here is what I ordered:

YG-F10.25-430L (Rear Ring and Pinion set) The "L" is for Long Yolk
YG-D60-430R-T (Front Ring and Pinion set)
YK-F10.25 (Rear master overhaul kit)
YK-D60 (Front maste overhaul kit)

I ordered them from Randy's Ring and Pinion: www.ringpionion.com