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Old Dec 24, 2006 | 05:14 PM
  #1  
rutang's Avatar
rutang
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From: Willamette Valley
Radiator Question

I have 1976 Ford F150 Ranger with a 460 engine and it has factory air conditioning. Where should I buy a new radiator for this truck and is it pretty easy to install? I am not real mechanical but I can do basic stuff. Thanks for any tips and advice... by the way this is my truck I am keeping forever so I want a good radiator not soemthing out of a junkyard. Thanks for the help!
Rusty
 
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Old Dec 24, 2006 | 05:23 PM
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Mil1ion
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Buy it new locally.
This will give you an lifetime warranty on your rad.

You will need the 4 core extra super-cooling rad.

A trusted name for years was Modine but beware of others.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2006 | 02:27 AM
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Radiator replacemant is not too hard (imo). Finding the best radiator was harder for me than installing it was. I found one at Schucks, all brass (not plastic tanks), real pet-**** for drain (not plastic) four cour radiator with lifetime warranty. That was 5 years ago, no problems to speak of yet. You can contact your local radiator shop and see what they have or can build if loccal supply is limited. Best of luck...
 
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Old Dec 26, 2006 | 07:51 AM
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I use the double pass aluminum radiators, usually around $150.00 delivered if you don't mind a bit of shopping on eBay to find the right dimension radiator with the inlet and outlet in the right place. Bought a new passenger car stock type radiator (bolt in) with 3 year warranty the other day for $133.00. I've installed a bunch of the aluminum ones in various projects and never had trouble cooling with any of them. As with any radiator install, a GOOD shroud and fan are as equally important as radiator size and fitment....
 
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Old Dec 26, 2006 | 08:26 AM
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Modine makes a good radiator and as Mil1ion said a four core would be a good choice and a good upgrade. The four core could be direct replacement, or the radiator you have may be the long and deep three core design. Either will work fine. If you don't like changes you should put a like one in. However, as Dave said, those aluminum cross flow (more efficient by design) work pretty well too if you don't mind some fabrication work. They are normally less expensive and do a better job cooling. I have heard from some folks that they don't hold up well to off-road and rough road vibrations, but I have a hard time believing simply based upon how nicely they are welded up. If you want a fast, easy fix, just buy the direct replacement from Schucks, Napa, or wherever and your truck will cool just fine. Also, it should bolt right on in without any headaches.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2006 | 10:37 AM
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i would spray some penetrating oil on the tranny line fittings where they go in the bottom tank now and a couple days before you do the swap.the fittings get stuck to the lines and will twist the line off making you have to replace the line or scab something together.the HD extra cooling 4 core would be the best bet,just remember to get the correct shroud if you don't already have this size rad.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2006 | 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by bronco521
i would spray some penetrating oil on the tranny line fittings where they go in the bottom tank now and a couple days before you do the swap, the fittings get stuck to the lines and will twist the line off making you have to replace the line or scab something together.
Use the penetrating oil like bronco521 says, but also use the proper size Flare-Nut wrench ( http://www.mytoolstore.com/sk/sk03150.html ) and tap the wrench counter-clockwise with a hammer to loosen the fitting. It's usually better to loosen stuck nuts and bolts in this way rather that just trying to muscle them. The latter method usually ruins the hardware and smashes your knuckles.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2006 | 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by cujo8
Use the penetrating oil like bronco521 says, but also use the proper size Flare-Nut wrench ( http://www.mytoolstore.com/sk/sk03150.html ) and tap the wrench counter-clockwise with a hammer to loosen the fitting. It's usually better to loosen stuck nuts and bolts in this way rather that just trying to muscle them. The latter method usually ruins the hardware and smashes your knuckles.
Very good point on penetrating oil!!!! These old trucks have been through who knows what in the last 30+ years, I spray everything with penetrating oil if it's something that hasn't bee apart in years... Saves a lot of broken off bolts in areas usually very hard to drill out the remains!!! Far as line wrenches, mine are all Snap-on. I hate to sound like a tool truck snob, but I've tried the lesser expensive brands and had them all slip and round off the fitting anyhow. Speaking of which, Vise Grip (now Irwin) makes a vise grip pliars specifically for grabbing rounded off fittings and nuts, a very handy addition to any tool box.
 
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