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Speedway Motors just started handling disc conversions but only for the smaller ford or chevy bolt patterns. ie: 4 1/2" or 4 3/4". CPP, ECI, MPB, along with Vintage Ford Sacramento, and others have the kits for 5 1/2" bolt pattern. Good Luck
Classic Performance Parts (CPP) runs an Ebay auction on a continuing basis for a bolt-on disc brake kit for 48-56 trucks for $89 in a variety of bolt patterns. See current auction number 300061941146.
I want to convert to disk brakes too. I have a '56 long bed and carry a 1,500 lb Alaskan camper. Last summer I was descending the east side of Sonora pass in California, (this is a really steep road) and even though I stayed in 1st (3-speed manual), by the time I was near the bottom, I literally would not have been able to come to a complete stop- only control the speed. Fortunately, after the road leveled out we were OK, but I don't want to go through that again.
I have looked at the mid-fifty conversion kit. They carry a kit for 5 1/2 bolt centers that includes the power booster (supposedly pre-valved ?) for $795. I am assuming one needs the power booster when going to disks. Any body use this one?
Hey Steve, I believe manual discs are the way to go for most applications. Most of the guys I've talked to said the power conversions are very touchy. But that was in 1/2 trucks. There is a wealth of knowledge on this site. Good Luck
I guess non-power would be my preference if there was enough stopping power. If I go non-power, I guess it would still be mandatory to change the master cylinder to a more modern dual design. Do the non-power, dual master cylinders use a smaller bore than the power models? Is it necessary to change the rear wheel cylinders, or does an adjustable proportioning valve do the trick?
A dual master cylinder is a must for safety. I'm not the brake expert but a 1" bore should be the largest used and a proportioning valve in the rear line to balance your system. Power brake M/C have larger bores.
I am going to convert my 51 to front disc as well. If I buy one of these kits with out rotors and bearings what year and make rotors and bearings will mount on my spindle?(small ford pattern)
Kits vary according to manufacturer but most come with a bearing adapter that "slides" over the spindle (and I use that word loosely because it's a very tight fit). The bearing adapter that comes with the kit depends on your using certain rotors and bearings which are specified for the kit. Usually, GM rotors if you want 5 on 4.75 pattern, Ford truck if you want 5x5.5 and Ford passenger car if you want 5x4.5 are the rotors specified..
I guess non-power would be my preference if there was enough stopping power. If I go non-power, I guess it would still be mandatory to change the master cylinder to a more modern dual design. Do the non-power, dual master cylinders use a smaller bore than the power models? Is it necessary to change the rear wheel cylinders, or does an adjustable proportioning valve do the trick?
Check out my gallery with the T-5 trans install, in there are pictures of the 76 Buick Estate Wagon manual Master cylinder I installed. It was for the same car the calipers fit I left the rear wheel cylinders the stock size. Sense that time I have read where the early Mustang M/C units are a direct bolt in. But for me this manual setup works great, I feel with all the leverage you get with the lenght of the stock brake pedal arm I would kill myself with power. I have no problem locking them up in fact this truck has better stopping power than any old car/truck I have ever owned. And over the last 45 years I have owned quite a few.