Tire size ???
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,115
Likes: 13
From: west plains spokane,wa
Tire size ???
Looking to replace the factory wrangler tires on my 06 ranger 4x4. They are
P255/70/16's, I wanted a taller tire and more than a 4 ply tire. I was looking at a LT 265/75/16 at a local tire store, the salesman mentioned 235/85/16's
as a suitable size. I hadn't thought of those as tires for a ranger but they are
about the same height as the 265's. Has anyone tried that size? How was the ride and handling? The 235's are a 10 ply and the 265 a 6 ply, both are a fairly aggressive AT tread. Salesman also thought the 235 would have better traction on a ranger. Looking for thoughts and experiences with either size on a ranger.
P255/70/16's, I wanted a taller tire and more than a 4 ply tire. I was looking at a LT 265/75/16 at a local tire store, the salesman mentioned 235/85/16's
as a suitable size. I hadn't thought of those as tires for a ranger but they are
about the same height as the 265's. Has anyone tried that size? How was the ride and handling? The 235's are a 10 ply and the 265 a 6 ply, both are a fairly aggressive AT tread. Salesman also thought the 235 would have better traction on a ranger. Looking for thoughts and experiences with either size on a ranger.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Utopia
The price on the 235/85 will be better and they will last forever. They are a really heavy duty work tire. You can also get the 265/75s in a 10 ply (that's what superduties used to come with...) I can't attest to traction, but it should definitely be improved. The 235/85 will have a bit less rolling resistance and probably be less likely to rub. Gas mileage will suffer with any 10 ply, but they will last a long time, get less flats, and will ride stiff.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2005
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I run BFG AT KO 265/75-16's, them seem to be the perfect size in look and function for a nonlifted ranger, they are all most 32" tall and close to 10.5" wide. They are a very sturdy tire tire, unbelievable traction, on and off the road. BFG is the number 1 selling offroad tire and 265 is the most common swap on rangers without a lift. I don't know anything about a 235/85, "sorry", but I can vowlge for the 265. "MERRY CHRISTMASS" !!!!
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,115
Likes: 13
From: west plains spokane,wa
I'm curious about the response regarding a 10 ply getting worse mileage, how
would the number of plies affect mileage? Ride and handling I understand but
mileage?
Most of my offroad driving involves snow and a some mud, mostly forest service and logging roads. I am new to owning a ranger, my old psd seemed to do better in snow/mud with a slightly wider tire but was almost twice as heavy. I was interested in wider vs. narrow offroad in a ranger.
Wendell, your 265's do ok in the snow on a ranger?? How do like the tru trac?
I can't say I'm overly impressed with the factory LS rearend, better than nothing I guess.
would the number of plies affect mileage? Ride and handling I understand but
mileage?
Most of my offroad driving involves snow and a some mud, mostly forest service and logging roads. I am new to owning a ranger, my old psd seemed to do better in snow/mud with a slightly wider tire but was almost twice as heavy. I was interested in wider vs. narrow offroad in a ranger.
Wendell, your 265's do ok in the snow on a ranger?? How do like the tru trac?
I can't say I'm overly impressed with the factory LS rearend, better than nothing I guess.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Utopia
Increased ply rating equals increased weight. Decreased mileage will result form the increased rotating mass.
1 pound of rotating mass is equal to 15 lbs of static weight.
For example, if you put on 33s and they weigh 10 pounds more per tire than 31s your engine is actually experiencing load equivalent to 600 pounds in the bed of the truck. This is why gears are so important.
Since the OP isn't considering a dramatic increase in diameter the stock gears will be fine, but the truck will be slower and less efficient.
1 pound of rotating mass is equal to 15 lbs of static weight.
For example, if you put on 33s and they weigh 10 pounds more per tire than 31s your engine is actually experiencing load equivalent to 600 pounds in the bed of the truck. This is why gears are so important.
Since the OP isn't considering a dramatic increase in diameter the stock gears will be fine, but the truck will be slower and less efficient.
Last edited by Customz; Dec 24, 2006 at 01:48 PM.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,115
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From: west plains spokane,wa
Don't the taller tires decrease your rpm's? Wouldn't the lower rpm's at highway speeds increase mileage? Or would the engine be running too
slow and be out of it's powerband causing it to work harder? It's a 4L , 5sp stick with 4:10 gears.
slow and be out of it's powerband causing it to work harder? It's a 4L , 5sp stick with 4:10 gears.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Utopia
yes it will run lower rpms, but mileage is more dependent on load than rpm on today's fuel injected engines (to a point). The larger tires will put the engine under more load during acceleration, so around town mileage may suffer. However, you could gain it back on the freeway. Similarly, lower gears will give the engine a mechanical advantage around town causing it not to work as hard.
With the 4.10s I believe you will be fine and one can buy an awful lot of gas for what a gear change costs.
With the 4.10s I believe you will be fine and one can buy an awful lot of gas for what a gear change costs.
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Post Fiend
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The tru-trac is an awesome lsd, it's gear driven, no clutches to wear out, it requires no modifiers, it made it a different truck offroad and has good on road manners. If you get one wheel jacked up in the air, you can fool in into acting like a locker, just by lightly a appling a little brake. This will cause both tires to pull together to get you out of most situations just like a locker. When both wheels are on the ground, it just grunts and goes.
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Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,115
Likes: 13
From: west plains spokane,wa
Does the tru trac need an open rear diff to install? Is it easy to install?
I like the idea of a gear driven lsd vs one with clutches. I was also looking at a lock right or aussie locker, price wise they look good. Not sure about on road driving manners though. Like to find an aggressive lsd that would last a long time and be easy to install with a factory lsd.
I like the idea of a gear driven lsd vs one with clutches. I was also looking at a lock right or aussie locker, price wise they look good. Not sure about on road driving manners though. Like to find an aggressive lsd that would last a long time and be easy to install with a factory lsd.
New User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 24
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From: Louisville, KY
Originally Posted by Big_Al59
I'm curious about the response regarding a 10 ply getting worse mileage, how
would the number of plies affect mileage? Ride and handling I understand but
mileage?
Most of my offroad driving involves snow and a some mud, mostly forest service and logging roads. I am new to owning a ranger, my old psd seemed to do better in snow/mud with a slightly wider tire but was almost twice as heavy. I was interested in wider vs. narrow offroad in a ranger.
Wendell, your 265's do ok in the snow on a ranger?? How do like the tru trac?
I can't say I'm overly impressed with the factory LS rearend, better than nothing I guess.
would the number of plies affect mileage? Ride and handling I understand but
mileage?
Most of my offroad driving involves snow and a some mud, mostly forest service and logging roads. I am new to owning a ranger, my old psd seemed to do better in snow/mud with a slightly wider tire but was almost twice as heavy. I was interested in wider vs. narrow offroad in a ranger.
Wendell, your 265's do ok in the snow on a ranger?? How do like the tru trac?
I can't say I'm overly impressed with the factory LS rearend, better than nothing I guess.
The more plies, the more heat they build up from all the plies rubbing, and actually, the worse wear miles they get. Also, they are going to ride like your truck is on cement blocks! Leave those tires to the guys that are running the big loads!
I'd recommend that you check out the Pro-Comp AT's for all around use. Both of my sons work in/own off-road shops and they mount up a bunch of those tires - and they're running them on their own trucks! They balance up super nice, run over 50K (on Superduty's!) and have great all-weather traction. We like them better than the BFG - and they cost less.
Another great, but unsung tire is the new Kuhmo Road Venture MT. I saw a set of those mounted up the other day - very nice looking tire. I've run the older Venture MT tires with great success on my own Ranger and Explorer, and I'd not hesitate to recommend them. They are one of the tire sponsors for the CORR off-road series, so they're not lightweights in the tire field.
New User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 24
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From: Louisville, KY
Originally Posted by Big_Al59
Does the tru trac need an open rear diff to install? Is it easy to install?
I like the idea of a gear driven lsd vs one with clutches. I was also looking at a lock right or aussie locker, price wise they look good. Not sure about on road driving manners though. Like to find an aggressive lsd that would last a long time and be easy to install with a factory lsd.
I like the idea of a gear driven lsd vs one with clutches. I was also looking at a lock right or aussie locker, price wise they look good. Not sure about on road driving manners though. Like to find an aggressive lsd that would last a long time and be easy to install with a factory lsd.
The only way to get a Tru-Trac is to replace your carrier with the Tru-Trac one. It is a complete separate carrier -- not a drop in assembly like the Aussie or Lock-Rite.
I'm running a Tru-Trac in my front axle in my Ranger build, cause it steers AND pulls. The rear is welded...
Of course, this is an off-road only truck, running big Dana axles and 38s. I don't recommend welded or spooled rear axles on the street. They do not handle street driving well. You have to slide a tire around every corner, because they cannot unlock one side to allow it to rotate at a faster speed as the outside tire goes around the corner. The Tru-Trac WILL allow for this.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2005
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Yeah, you need to have the shop install it, as it has to be set to tolerances and what have you, simular to a gear swap. It will work on open or factory lsd as has been stated, it replaces the carrier. The shop charged me 250.00$ to install the tru-trac with me buying the parts. you just need the tru-trac and an installation kit, plus fluid. As glfredrick has stated, it's allways on, no clutches to wear out and it doesn't neeed any additional modifiers like the clutch style lsd. I run royal purple synthetic gear lube to reduce heat and friction, I believe it helps in the mpg department as I run synthetics in the whole drive train, engine, t-case, tranny and rear diff.