Subwoofer Gurus Help me PLEASE
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 96
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From: Almond USA
Subwoofer Gurus Help me PLEASE
I am new to the subwoofer style systems but not new to stereo, just rusty. My old system was jensen 6x9s, a 7 band EQ booster, and a pioneer cassette deck. In its day it was awsome. But now I'm trying to help out my kid and WOW how thing have changed. Enough history heres my ??s
1. We removed the jump seats and installed a 12" sub on either side. Looks cool but now I have to work on vibration in almost all the trim in the back of the truck. My plan is to glue a carpet pad to he inside of everything I can and tighten things up. I've heard of poly fil. Is this the white fluffy stuff and how much and where is it helpful? Any other suggestions?
2. We have a two channel sony amp and sony subs. I wired into the amp with the rca plugs, and wired the subs with each its own + and - lead. I believe this is not bridging the amp. Is this the way to go? The instructions warn about dropping the ohms but don't make it very clear on how to wire two subs in for max power. Thanks for any help you can offer and be patient, I don't get on the computor as much as I would like for repling to questions.
Sorry about long post and thanks again. Wishbone
1. We removed the jump seats and installed a 12" sub on either side. Looks cool but now I have to work on vibration in almost all the trim in the back of the truck. My plan is to glue a carpet pad to he inside of everything I can and tighten things up. I've heard of poly fil. Is this the white fluffy stuff and how much and where is it helpful? Any other suggestions?
2. We have a two channel sony amp and sony subs. I wired into the amp with the rca plugs, and wired the subs with each its own + and - lead. I believe this is not bridging the amp. Is this the way to go? The instructions warn about dropping the ohms but don't make it very clear on how to wire two subs in for max power. Thanks for any help you can offer and be patient, I don't get on the computor as much as I would like for repling to questions.
Sorry about long post and thanks again. Wishbone
New User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 23
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From: Austin, TX
Hey Wishbone,
The poly fill is for the INSIDE of the speaker boxes. You did not mention what kind of enclosure (box) you are using. The poly fill basically "fools" the subwoofer into thinking it is in a larger enclosure than it actually is. If your enclosure is too small for the woofers recommended enclosure volume you use poly fill. I am not familiar with "jump seats" so I am unsure of how you have those woofers mounted. Maybe you have them mounted “fee air” wich is only good if you are using a woofer specifically designed for this.
As for stopping the vibrations, I would suggest professional sound deading material such as dynamat http://www.dynamat.com/ below and next to the speaker locations. Search the web for the best prices on the dynamat.
You are correct about tightening everything, and you can stuff small pieces of felt between other squeaking or rattling parts that cannot be tightened.
As far as running the subs and getting the most power from the amp, we need some more details such as the impedance of the subs in ohms and the model of the amp. Some amps do not run well at 2 ohms and as a general rule, the lower ohms you push the less sound quality and more heat you get. Tell me more about your setup and I think I can help out a little more.
The poly fill is for the INSIDE of the speaker boxes. You did not mention what kind of enclosure (box) you are using. The poly fill basically "fools" the subwoofer into thinking it is in a larger enclosure than it actually is. If your enclosure is too small for the woofers recommended enclosure volume you use poly fill. I am not familiar with "jump seats" so I am unsure of how you have those woofers mounted. Maybe you have them mounted “fee air” wich is only good if you are using a woofer specifically designed for this.
As for stopping the vibrations, I would suggest professional sound deading material such as dynamat http://www.dynamat.com/ below and next to the speaker locations. Search the web for the best prices on the dynamat.
You are correct about tightening everything, and you can stuff small pieces of felt between other squeaking or rattling parts that cannot be tightened.
As far as running the subs and getting the most power from the amp, we need some more details such as the impedance of the subs in ohms and the model of the amp. Some amps do not run well at 2 ohms and as a general rule, the lower ohms you push the less sound quality and more heat you get. Tell me more about your setup and I think I can help out a little more.
Sick 'n Tired
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 2,969
Likes: 47
From: League City, TX
Like Brently said, you need Dyno-mat or their cheaper competition material for they vibration. As far as the amp power, in order to bridge the amp power you connect the positive from ch1 and the negative from ch2 to the sub. However, not all amps can be bridged. The amp instructions should provide that info. Bridging the amp will only power one of the amps and you've got two. So unless you want to dump one sub you and just rely on a single bridged sub you're SOL.
I'm yet to see a 2 ohm stable Sony amp or 2 ohm Sony subs so I'm guessing they're both 4 ohm. The instructions you mention might be referring to a dual voice coil (DVC) sub? If that's what you've got, like Brently said, we're going to need some sub and amp specs to be any help. Basically, if you've got a DVC sub there are several options for wiring it up.
I'm yet to see a 2 ohm stable Sony amp or 2 ohm Sony subs so I'm guessing they're both 4 ohm. The instructions you mention might be referring to a dual voice coil (DVC) sub? If that's what you've got, like Brently said, we're going to need some sub and amp specs to be any help. Basically, if you've got a DVC sub there are several options for wiring it up.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 169
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From: youngstown, ohio
just connect the two postives and the negatives wire together and put them in the amp where it says "bridged". it wont blow your amp....the amp my shut off because it gets too hot if your blasting your stereo for 3 hours straight....thats the most power the amp will give you. if you run each speaker to its own channel it wont be nearly has powerful...if you would have bought a mono amp made for subwoofers you wouldnt have to worry about bridging or overheating....but they usually cost a heck of alot more money. Your gonna have the vibration and the rattling here and there....a little constuction glue under those trim pieces help out alot. always remember you get what you paid when it comes to amps...if the amp says 600 watts it isnt actually running the speakers at 600...its running about 150rms to each woofer...the more powerful the amp, the better the woofers will sound 
--ryan
--ryan
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Almond USA
More info
Thanks for the replies I have more info on the system. Sony gtw50 headunit,Sony XM-2002gtr amp, 6x8 sony 4-ways in doors and rear panels, and two 12" sony subs mounted into side pillers of the back of the extend cab where side mounted jump seats were.
Specs on the amp are 200 rms x 2 at 4 ohms, max 400w x2 at 4 ohms, 600 x 2 at 2 ohms, and 1200w mono at 4ohm. The subs are 4 ohm 380 rms, 1300 peak. It shows wiring for bridging but for one sub. If parallel wiring the two subs and bridging the amp will only work the amp a little harder not smoke it I think I will try it. I also plan to remove al trim and pad and isolate the sub to only the area low in the cab to control vibrations up into the door pillars. It will still leave a space about 18 x 18 x 8 for the sub to work with.
Thanks Wishbone
Specs on the amp are 200 rms x 2 at 4 ohms, max 400w x2 at 4 ohms, 600 x 2 at 2 ohms, and 1200w mono at 4ohm. The subs are 4 ohm 380 rms, 1300 peak. It shows wiring for bridging but for one sub. If parallel wiring the two subs and bridging the amp will only work the amp a little harder not smoke it I think I will try it. I also plan to remove al trim and pad and isolate the sub to only the area low in the cab to control vibrations up into the door pillars. It will still leave a space about 18 x 18 x 8 for the sub to work with.
Thanks Wishbone
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 169
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From: youngstown, ohio
yeah it shouldnt smoke the amp...your inline fuses will blow before it does anyways. those are some nice door speakers. four ways are good sounding speakers. and i think i have the same sony subs in my truck, they hit pretty damn hard! are you planning on putting bass blockers to all the regular speakers in the truck? i always do that, so when u crank your system up, your regular speakers dont distort because of all the bass going to them. their prety cheap too. their about 10 bucks a pair...good luck wishbone
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 96
Likes: 1
From: Almond USA
Well I pulled the panels all apart and installed 3/8 carpet pad with a liberal coat of construction glue on every possible area. The results were great, much better sound and lots of it with a cost of only about 10 bucks total. Sounds so good I am leaving my amp unbridged and have plenty of pop. Dynamat looks like a awsome product but we are on a tight budget. Thanks to all that replied Wishbone
