Well decided to keep my 1992 Bronco xlt and before driving it from Atlanta to its new home in Denver I stopped by my trusty Napa Service Store and all the fluids changed, tranny, differential, oil, etc. also had the injector flush with cleaner and the tire rod arms and one side of ball joints replaced. Shortly leaving Napa the engine light came on - returned to Napa -answer maybe some carbon stuck in the EGR valve drive it a bit and bring it back Monday (we leave for Denver on Tuesday) back Monday did the computer check and they told me that it was unrelated to the fuel injector cleaning and they could not determine the problem - also showed them a tranny leak - they put it up and showed me that the oil was coming from the top of the tranny not from the oil pan where they did the work. It ran fine all the way to Denver - but the light is still on and the tranny is still dripping. Local tranny shop says it will $500 to drop the tranny replace the seal and put it back together. The tranny runs fine except for a sometimes-hard shift from first to second, there is 196,000 miles on the tranny - my questions are:
<O</O

Are the engine light and tranny leak related?<O</O

Should I have the tranny shop rebuild it because of the miles?<O</O

If the engine light and tranny is not related - do I need to replace the EGR valve?<O</O

Anyone know about Amsoil Synthetic products? Recommendations?
Thoughts on BF Goodrich 31 x 10.50 15 All weather tires? ($140.99 a piece installed at Costco)
Thanks Guys
RJ<O</O

 

1 - no, they aren't related. You should pull the codes to find out what the CEL is on for. I can't believe that NAPA didn't do this, and there are only two reasons for it - laziness or incompetence.

2 - Not unless it needs it.

3 - No idea - again, pull the codes. www.broncodata.com/tech/codes.htm

4 - don't ask questions about amsoil on FTE. Trust me on this.

5 - $141 a piece for tires is a lot of money for 31's. I would shop around some more.

 

Thanks for the info about amsoil - not sure what you mean but apparently it is not good. What do I need to "pull the codes"? Napa said that they did not have the equipment to drill down to find what was really wrong - I saw them hook something up that look like the device on your link but said they needed something else to get more info - referred me to another shop but I needed to leave of Denver. Thanks for the info by the way the Costco price $70 less than discount and Big O - not sure where else to look.
RJ

 

I bought mine at Costco a few years ago. I went with Bridgestone Dueller A/T revos - even got the heavier duty LT tires over the P tires for better load capacity. I run them in the snow and ice and they work great. They're cheaper than the BFGs and in my opinion a better tire.

The check engine light is lit by the computer. It monitors all the sensors and will trip the light when something is wrong. The only way to find out what's wrong is to pull the codes from the computer. If you read the link I gave you, it will show you how to hook up a paperclip to ground the diagnostic plug and the check engine light will blink the codes out at you. It's super easy to do, and doesn't require a code reader or anything else.

 

Andy it may be super easy to you - but I spent a couple of hours and did not have a clue what I was doing and the link does not mention a paper clip or where to look for the display other than a volt meter - I am sure if I saw someone do it I would catch on - but right now I am lost.

Ron

 

A digital code reader for about $40 is well worth the investment. It will pay for itself in the first part unnecessarilly replaced. The longer cord with is is nice but not absolutely necessary if you move fast to inside the cab for KOER readings. The book explains all the readings if you have something that needs attention. I keep mine in the console.

 

The local NAPA network is excellent I am sure that any one of the local NAPA shops would be willing to finish what their counterparts back east did not. What part of Denver are you in?

 

Ok, here's the diagram you need to look at:

<a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img src="http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h48/andymilleville/eec2.gif" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"></a>

Ignore the voltmeter and the test light. Start the engine, let it warm up, then shut it off. Hook up a paperclip where the line is between the two test connectors. They are under the hood directly behind the airbox. Sometimes you have to pull them out of the harness that keeps them from flopping around. I leave them unhooked after the first time, but do what you like.

Then get into the cab. Turn the key to run. Count the check engine light blinks. Start the engine. Count the blinks. It's also important to follow the rest of the directions on the page regarding what to do & when.

 

Thanks guys, appreciate the assistance, will try the paper clip technique but will also consider the digital code reader for future anaylsis. I live up in the Erie area - there is a guy on the Radio here on Saturdays that has a place near Bolder that I might give a try if I can't fix it myself. I will keep you posted. If any one knows a good and honest tranny shop here drop me a note. Thanks
Ron

 

Tried the paper clip and double check it with the code reader - 332 Insufficient EGR Flow - assuming new EGR Valve? Right/Wrong
Ron

 

Hope someone is around on Christmas Eve..lol Well changed out the EGR valve and driving for about a mile the engine light came back on. Bronco runs fine - returned home cleared the codes and ran again. Engine off - got these codes 33 & 13 & 1 - engine running got these codes 332 & 129 & 167 - 129 & 167 are new were not there before. Any thoughts on this wonderful cold Christmas Eve. Thanks guys
Ron

 

i have bfg at's on my truck and spent about 120 per tire.

 

Still a bit lost on these codes - the same 332 and the two new ones? I had no problem with the engine light until Napa did the injector flush - could these codes be caused by something they did not put back together or by disconnecting anything during their procedure? While I really like Napa - and have used them consistently I really do not want to take my Bronco to the shop on something I can fix at home - especially if it is just reconnecting something or replacing a part. Would appreciate any ones Ideas. Thanks
Ron

 

I don't think that you got a bad deal on your tires at all. You get everything for that price where as tire shops often nickel and dime you to death. Sure at the tire shops you go out the door feeling like you got a good deal, but after you do the simple division it comes out about the same as Costco if you are lucky. And you will have be pretty darn lucky to beat their installed prices.

 

As for your problem, I would check everything around your injectors just to make sure everything is tight and that some wiring didn't accidently get unplugged. There is just too much cooincidence in all this for me. Just a note: uless you have worked at a place like this, you have no idea how inexperienced and how clueless some (not all) of these "techs" are so you need to be careful. Going off memory here: code 33 means your computer didn't detect your EGR valve opening, code 332 is another EGR code that I can't remember, 129 and 167 have to do with MAF or MAP and TP (I think) You can probably find all you codes in a chilton's book. Perhaps someone here has one...I'm off today.