I met Mr. Lehnard, at Sweetwater B Line lube, he let me pull on the drill press as hard as I wanted to with the No-Mor friction and the 1/4 pin didn't seize with me pullin on it for a good solid 3 minutes. Then he changed the pin and plate out, and put Lucas on the plate and I as able to lock the bit down in under 2 minutes, because the lucas got hot, got thin, then burned off.

I asked the guys in the lube shop and they all swear by it and its 120 dollar price tag.

 

If the product is so good then the astm testing lab will bring out the truth. I do not belive it is compatable with many products and won't lube at low temps. I don't belive that it carries dirt out the engine like it should. How long have they ran the product in real world applications. This product might float roller bearings instead of allowing them to do the work they were designed to do. Slick 50 was hailed as wonder lube. yet it can cause bearing failure because it sticks to the race where the rollers are tracking. Building up teflon untill the clearance is gone and cracks the bearing. Yet many are payng for a product that gets stuck in the filters. There has been many lawsuits about this with slick 50. I see the same with this product.

 

see my prevoius posts for more info but yes if this or any "additive"
to be really "certified or blessed" it should be run trought the full API SL/SM engine sequence but since that costs 100K or more no one does it. they only pick and chose what routines to run "some noit even API or ASTM" but IMHO a full engine sequence test and pass would add all the validilty it would take to silence everyone on the perfromance.

bruce

 

I would recommend several tests for the product.1) Chemical test to test the engine material and lube additive compatibility. 2) Temperature stability range oxidation and ability to transfer heat.3)The 4 ball test. 4) The ability to clean the engine and carry the dirt to the filter with out the product soaking up the dirt and creating sludge. I recommend that all the tests be at a real lab and not in some garage with home made test devices. note on the drill bit test. try stp mobil 1, amsoil , duralube and other products that claim to fame also each with new drill bits and new blocks with the exact same loads each time. that means with out some human using his strength to vary the tests. Lucas is not a quality product for the test being used.

 

I HAVE DONE USED IT! IT WORKS!@@@ TRY IT YOU WILL NOT BE SAD YOU BE & jumping for joy. I now have over 250k on my truck & it runs like the day I bought it. Never had any repairs & yes I checked the compression 100% like new. It is like a new engine. I had a old ford I put it in because I tried Lucas in it. It made the transmission stop slipping. And I thought Lucas was suppose to do that, but it did not! I now have over 760k on that truck. No new trans either. I just pulled my 30 trailer with it to Saint Louis. One thing I can say it take along time for the truck to heat up, but with that said it does what they say it does. Try Nomorfiction I really like it. It has saved me allot of money$$$ If you like saving gas/diesel money$$$ O by the way I got 30% better diesel mileage too.

Good Night

 

Wow...your first post on this forum is a wild bunch of claims that sounds a *lot* like a sales pitch to me. Do you not think that if any product could give a 30% increase in mileage that the auto mfrs would be all over it?

And your truck has over 250k miles, no make that 760k miles...why not say 10 million miles?

Again, if there was really something to any of these snake oil products, the car companies and major oil companies would be all over them.

George

 

George, I am believing that we are in the presence of Mr. Lehnard himself. No way a normal user would make a post like that for their first post.

 

You said that they used no more friction after they froze up the device with another product. Did they ever start with no more friction then use another product? I could use regular oil to get what they claim is a wondrous event.
This type of flim flam is standard knowledge with anyone who has messed up drill bits in a press. If you remove the bit one way you round the edges and had made the parts smaller and less likely to cut or bind. you will also have less contact with the parts because of the scaring and particals. The particals which become bearings of a sort them selves. Then you add lube which helps keep things free and moving. Unless the product can muster passing thru the filters of even one micron then I don't trust it. I trust filtration and the lack of voo doo additives. All thru history the additive market was to fix a problem the engine had. A cooler engine the looser the parts which means less wear. The thicker the lube the more the engine fights it self to run and cuts fuel milage. Additives are to be left alone unless you find a need like stop leak. A quick fix until you repare the problem. My question was never answered, What is the compatablity of the chemical makeup of the product and those on the market? Some things don't go together_ never!

 

Their demo is taking a 1/4 metal round stock in a drill press and running it until it froze (with lucas, which took about 3-5 minutes), then they changed the round stock for fresh round stock and a new plate, and then let everyone around pull on the drill press as hard as they can and it never froze

BTW no more friction isn't thick like Lucas or STP,

PS I do not work for or endorse no more friction, I am just informing what I know, cuz they sell it at our local B-line lube, and I met Mr. Lehnard one day at the tractor supply I work at.

 

Yeah, I agree. It's not normal.

 

I have read these many posts on NMF. You non-users are shooting yourself in the foot for not using a friction reducer. Oil companies sell their oils which only meet the required automotive and industry specs. By adding additives in the oil will vastly increase the price of the product. They have to keep prices competitive. Many companies refuse to publish specs on their oil as to what is in them; that is a proprietary formula. Even Ford makes a friction reducer additive for oil. They, along with AMSOIL refuse to give your their formulas. I don't know what is in this NMF product; I don't care! It works and I use it. You can see the proofs on U-Tube. Better yet, try it. It is good to be a sceptic with all the **** out there. I use this in my personal vehicles as well as my Freightliner and have had great results. I don't sell this product. If I did, I would provide better marketing. Everyone who uses it says it works. I use it in my PTU, and differentials. All Ford Exploader have internal water pumps copied after European design. They are **** and will fail about every 70,000 miles. The first failure is replaced under warranty. After that it is your dime. By adding 1 Oz. in the radiator will help lubricate the water pump. This should increase replacement life. Most new vehicles seem to be using faulty interwater pump design which failure will will lighten your bank account by about $2,500.; same with the Power Transfer Unit. You have to use this friction reducer in of these vehicles. Don't argue that you bet that this does not clean your engine like engine oil. This is an additive and not meant to clean your oil. That is what your use good oil for. Diesel adds carbon soot to the oil. The only way to reduce the soot buildup is to use an external oil filter. This filter will take only a portion of the oil and run it through a 2 micron filter so the oil pressure will not be affected. Back on target, you need to try it for your own good. Don't shoot yourself in the finicinatial foot. This product is now finally available. I now use it.

 

So all this does is raise the questions WHO are you and WHY is your word to be accepted without being questioned?

Maybe one more---WHY hasn't this product become more widely known and used?