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Sorry I can't offer any help on a sending unit. But, do you know who the manufacturer of the tank is? I am wanting to relocate the tank on my '51 somewhere other than inside the cab.
Tnx, I just ordered a Summit catalog.
As far as the tank, I have no idea who made it. It was done down in NJ about 20 yrs ago was all the info I could get.
I bought the JCWhitney one and it's in my 53 now. I adapted it to the original tank. It works ok except the guage needle sticks all the time. Everytime you turn the key off, the needle goes to zero and then when the key is on, it sticks at zero and I have to peck on the face to make it work. I am planning to take it apart and investigate, or maybe adapt the old gauge back in with a 6v regulator. I guess you get what you pay for.
[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 01-Sep-01 AT 06:30 PM (EST)[/font][p]That's why I said I would use a 6 volt regulator (not the one on the alt, but a small electronic reg for the guage only) because I am running 12v now, and if I put the original guage and sending unit back in, I would have to step the voltage down.
Franklin2 I wouldn't worry about changing the gauge and having to put a regulator on it as I am using the original gauge and am converted to 12 volt positive ground and haven't had any problems with it yet ( converted in the 70's ) .
WIRED, did you say you are running your stock 6 volt gauge on 12 v with no problems?? If I understood you correctly, you have blown that old myth of having to swap out to 12v all to - well you know where.
Fuel tank floats, as a general rule, are not rated by voltage, but by resistance. In order to use a modern float, you would just have to buy one with the same internal resistance. The internals of the float work like a rheostat in that when the float rises, the arm rotates along a wound wire internal, just like a rheostat. Hope this helps.
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