i have an 89 bII with auto locking hubs. for sum unknown reason i cant get the front wheels to lock in. i replaced the transfer case motor, so i know its working. i even went and got the manual locking hub conversion kit, but when we put it on, nothing. the kit only had 3 parts for each side.regardless id just like to get my 4 wheel working again. any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. i have been told that maybe i just need to replace the slip on hubs with new auto locking ones.

 

Did you get manual lock outs to go with the conversion kit (two nuts for each side and a washer with holes in it)? The auto locking lock outs will not work with the manual hub conversion kit.

 

yea. i took everything off all the way to the wheel bearring to see what was there. we put it back with the conversion kit in place of it. then i put the manual locking hubs on and tried to lock it in but it seemed like nothing was lockin in. i only did 1 side because i wasnt sure if i was doin more harm than good. when i looked in the haynes book the hubs i got from a wrecked bII didnt look like they were missing anything. but it still seemed like they wouldnt lock in. does it sound like i should just buy new auto hubs and be done with it??? when i hit the 4x4 button i here sum clicking when i pull forward but it just wont catch to lock in. a guy told me it sounds like the hubs are bad, not anything internal.

 

You need to do both sides. If the auto lock outs were bad and won't lock in it won't do any good to replace just one side. If you put it in to 2wd and jack up one side of the rear axle. Then put it in gear you will see the tire off the ground spin. This is like the auto hub that won't lock in. The tire on the ground is like the manual lock out you installed and it won't move. Unless you have lockers in the differential that is.

Install the other side manual lock out and conversion kit.

 

Gotta be careful on the "one wheel off ground" method. BIIs that were equipped with 4.10 gears stock generally also had the trac-lok differential(s), and trying that method with them will get someone hurt or something damaged.

 

when i did it i had it on a lift. and i only did the one side but when it didnt look like it was locking in i put the old parts back in. so i dont have one side manual and one side auto. its back just like it was.when we put the conversion kit on i turned the **** on the hub and it just didnt feel like it was turning anything.i could turn the drive shaft and neither wheel would turn so i went ahead and put it back like it was.

 

Trac lock is a clutch type limited slip. The Trac Lock case is one peice. Not bolt together like the Power Lock. I have yet to see a Track Lock that would pull a truck off a jack stand. Power Lock maybe with extra clutches bolted in and the use of brakes, same with a True Trac or Gleason gear biasing stuff, Locker for sure. But open or Trac Lock in stock form I doubt. Most times with a Trac Lock you can over power the clutches buy hand. Just jack up one wheel and grab the tire and turn it.

 

Kroop69, you may have a bad manual lock out or one that is dirty. There should be a gear inside the lock out that slips over the end of the axles shaft. With the lock out in free you should be able to turn that gear. When you turn the lock out to lock that inside gear should lock into the outer assembly. You may have to turn it a bit to get it to do so if it's dirty. Check that first. Sometimes it takes a bit for the lock outs to lock in.

The lock out and the wheel may need to be turned and worked at a bit for the lock out to line up and slide on to the end of the axle shaft and seat flush against the rotor/hub assembly.

If the lock out is working off the truck and you get the lock out seated fully, the axle should be locked into the lock out and evertything should move together.

 

FWIW: Autolock hubs are unreliable, fail without warning, and in general stink. They will unlock while backing up and leave you stuck on ice. Replace on both sides. Then ...

Lock the hubs.

Turn the truck on, put it in 4x4 low, drive forward/backwards a few feet. If 4x4 is not working.

Turn the truck off.

Get underneath and see if you can turn the front driveshaft with 4 wheels on the ground. If so, then the transfer case is not working properly. It should not move at all.

Next jack the front end up, jackstands on both sides. Truck still off, chock rear wheels, front and back, set parking brake, put tranny in N.

Try turning a front wheel, the other wheel should turn backwards while turning the other one forward on a stock vehicle. Or both wheels should turn forward with a L/S front end. If not, get under the vehicle and see if the driveshaft behind the rotor moves while turning the wheel. Pass. side is easiest one to check. If the hub is not locked in or installed properly, the shaft will not turn.

If the front drive shaft will not move when in 4x4 LO with four tires on the ground
and
both wheels move its axle shaft when turning the tire,
then
the problem is inside the axle housing.

 

i see what you are saying but it acctually has auto locking hubs. is that what you meant about turning it a little to try and get it to line up.

 

i just went out and messed with it for a bit. when i hit the 4x4 button inside i hear it clicking inside then the light stays on like its supposed to. when i pull forward i hear clickin coming from the wheels. so i put it in 4 low the clicking stops. but when i back up i hear a couple more clicks. then nothing. but in 4 high it clicks goin forward, but in 4 low it clicks in reverse, kinda like its trying to lock in but wont. i put it in 4 low and nuetral, got underneath it and turned the front driveshaft. it had a little slop but it would move the truck if i turned it. so does that mean it did lock in??? im really sorry to be a pain guys but all your help is appreciated!!!

 

kroop69, I own both a Ranger and a Bronco ii with touch control.
I have had the front hubs apart a few times over the years.
The Haynes book give quite a bit of info on pages 188, 189 and 190.
The spindle tip assembly is not shown so I made a drawing so I would not forget how it comes apart.
I have had open wiring in the dash area that worked internittant then not at all so ended up subbing the controller from one to the other to figure out what was going on.
The edge mount connector to the controller board went bad from age and the plastic crumbled. Maybe this will give you some ideas.
It's easy to get to the controller by taking the cover off the top of the dash on the riders side. The leads are long enough to get it out and still operate the system.
Good luck.