Losing power when put in park
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Losing power when put in park
Hi everyone, I'm hoping someone can help me perhaps pin point the source of this problem, although it could be a million things.
I've noticed lately that whenever I put my truck into park (while truck is running) I can clearly feel a loss of power that I didn't used to feel, almost to the point where it feels like it wants to die even though it doesn't do that and never has.
Like I said I realize this could be a million things, but maybe someone can help me get a better idea of what it is because it might be something I can fix myself.
This is for a 97 Ford Ranger, 4 cylinder, 2 wheel drive.
I've noticed lately that whenever I put my truck into park (while truck is running) I can clearly feel a loss of power that I didn't used to feel, almost to the point where it feels like it wants to die even though it doesn't do that and never has.
Like I said I realize this could be a million things, but maybe someone can help me get a better idea of what it is because it might be something I can fix myself.
This is for a 97 Ford Ranger, 4 cylinder, 2 wheel drive.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 4,907
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From: suburban atlanta
You may have an IAC that is gummy. In park, the ECM tells the Idle Air Control to close up a smidge so the idle doesn't jump up. No load on the engine in park. If the IAC is gummy, when it tries to cut back a little, and doesn't respond, the ECM sez HEY, cut back, I told you , and trims it too much, thus the idle goes too slow, and may wander back and forth as the ECM seeks to stabilize the idle.
Use cat converter safe cleaner inside the IAC (remove and clean) and you may get away with it.
Just a thot.
tom
Use cat converter safe cleaner inside the IAC (remove and clean) and you may get away with it.
Just a thot.
tom
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Originally Posted by tomw
You may have an IAC that is gummy. In park, the ECM tells the Idle Air Control to close up a smidge so the idle doesn't jump up. No load on the engine in park. If the IAC is gummy, when it tries to cut back a little, and doesn't respond, the ECM sez HEY, cut back, I told you , and trims it too much, thus the idle goes too slow, and may wander back and forth as the ECM seeks to stabilize the idle.
Use cat converter safe cleaner inside the IAC (remove and clean) and you may get away with it.
Just a thot.
tom
Use cat converter safe cleaner inside the IAC (remove and clean) and you may get away with it.
Just a thot.
tom
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 8,462
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From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
It's a small silver metallic cylinder located on the side of the throttle body, typically held on with two bolts. Remove, carefully remove the gasket. Spray the inside throughly with throttle body cleaner, let it drain good, and replace.
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Originally Posted by RangerPilot
It's a small silver metallic cylinder located on the side of the throttle body, typically held on with two bolts. Remove, carefully remove the gasket. Spray the inside throughly with throttle body cleaner, let it drain good, and replace.
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Ventura ,ca. (near L.A.)
IF it's not the IAC, a bad alternator will sometime not charge the battery at idle and the voltage will drop causing the engine to drop down. You would probably see the voltage gauge dip down though.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: suburban atlanta
JIMw I have an old Sable that had a fried regulator. Didn't know it. As I would take it out of D, going to Park, the engine would stall. EVERY TIME. Somehow, I figured out that it was the alternator, and didn't know why. Voltage surge or drop as the RPMs were being adjusted by the IAC must've driven it whacko.
tom
tom
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Posting Guru
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From: Maine
I didn't replace the gasket when I cleaned mine. If you didn't tear it, I don't see why you would need to replace it.
Getting the IAC off of the 2.3, (and back on) is kind of a pain, but it can be done without removing anything except the air tube.
Getting the IAC off of the 2.3, (and back on) is kind of a pain, but it can be done without removing anything except the air tube.
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Originally Posted by john112deere
I didn't replace the gasket when I cleaned mine. If you didn't tear it, I don't see why you would need to replace it.
Getting the IAC off of the 2.3, (and back on) is kind of a pain, but it can be done without removing anything except the air tube.
Getting the IAC off of the 2.3, (and back on) is kind of a pain, but it can be done without removing anything except the air tube.
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Originally Posted by 77460f150
I found a gasket for my 97 4.0L at Advance auto parts when I replaced my IAC motor. I would think you would be able to get it at the dealer too. -Ed
Elder User
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From: Ventura ,ca. (near L.A.)
Originally Posted by tomw
JIMw I have an old Sable that had a fried regulator. Didn't know it. As I would take it out of D, going to Park, the engine would stall. EVERY TIME. Somehow, I figured out that it was the alternator, and didn't know why. Voltage surge or drop as the RPMs were being adjusted by the IAC must've driven it whacko.
tom
tom
The moral of the story, don't buy rebuilt parts from pep boys.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: SW Va
When buying a new or reman electrical replacement, like an alternator, computer, motor, ect, why not have them bench test the item before you leave the store with it, that way you'll both know it's ok!!!!!