confused.01 v10 no power pls help
#16
This is great news!! I`m going to install a new fuel filter on mine and clean the MAS. I haven`t really driven the truck much except 2 weekends ago I pulled a 7X18 enclosed trailer. Got 8 mpg and not much power in O.D. (3:73 gear but still 265 tires). Total weight of the trailer was about 4000#`s but it was very windy. I have noticed that my truck simply does not like to shift when the gas petal is stepped on hard, seems real slow at buildin rpm`s after about 3200 rpm. Droppin the truck off tonight at a local muffler shop to get a real Y pipe fabbed in........
I'm going to have 4.30s put in the 04 V-10 that I traded for, to keep from downshifting going up hills as before. (it has 3.73s right now as well).
I'm pretty confident from information gained on this site that I will be pretty pleased with the gear change, especially since I haven't really been displeased with the 3.73s.
#17
Ok guys I have been following along closely. And have a question.
I have an 01 V10 that I just picked up with 49K, I changed all the filters and fluids, cleaned the mass air sensor, it has 33" tires but it does have 4:30. I have not yet changed plugs. My problem is it will not hold over drive towing all most anything. Empty 20' enclosed car trailer or just last night a 7600lbs 5th wheel. to even get it to shift in to OD I have fully let off the gas for around 2-3 sec and it will shift into OD but will only stay there a short time then if it kicks out then back to the same. The trans works great but the motor seam a little weak in the the high side, above 3-3.5K it seams to just be going thur the motion, but not alot of power.
Any help?
I have an 01 V10 that I just picked up with 49K, I changed all the filters and fluids, cleaned the mass air sensor, it has 33" tires but it does have 4:30. I have not yet changed plugs. My problem is it will not hold over drive towing all most anything. Empty 20' enclosed car trailer or just last night a 7600lbs 5th wheel. to even get it to shift in to OD I have fully let off the gas for around 2-3 sec and it will shift into OD but will only stay there a short time then if it kicks out then back to the same. The trans works great but the motor seam a little weak in the the high side, above 3-3.5K it seams to just be going thur the motion, but not alot of power.
Any help?
#19
Originally Posted by h20boy
I know that the big tires will have a HUGE effect on towing ability. Even with the 4.30s. If you are going to run the larger tires & wheels, I would consider as high as a 4.88.
I have a freind with a 99 with 170,000 miles on a 5.4 with 285/75/16 (33") 2wd that will haul the same 20' enclosed empty and hold overdrive.
Something has to be going on with mine
Last edited by llcustom; 12-24-2006 at 11:54 AM.
#21
#22
Mine ended up being a clogged up cat. replaced and and all was good.
Well I should say broken up or damaged cat, it was ratteling when i beat on it. Replaced it with a new high flow unit from summit.
Well I should say broken up or damaged cat, it was ratteling when i beat on it. Replaced it with a new high flow unit from summit.
#23
Not yet, try to this weekend. Im really starting to think its a combo of non PI motor, 3:73 gears, ZF5 sp, and 285's. The 3200rpm power loss seems common, the lower power being a 99 model,and it "feels" like Im always in between gears; too high or too low. I would prol love a PI or 3v/6sp/4:10-4:30.....just a thought.
#26
This is great news!
Because the engine and tranny are now controlled by the same computer, any little problem anywhere in the system, and the tranny will certainly act funny.
When I cleaned the MAF (the sensor that measures how much air is going into the motor) in my '01, it shifted WAY better than it had been doing. It had gotten me worried that the tranny was going, the way it would slip and/or jerk.
Also, fill in your location, and other info, if you please. We'd like to know you WELCOME to FTE!!!
Because the engine and tranny are now controlled by the same computer, any little problem anywhere in the system, and the tranny will certainly act funny.
When I cleaned the MAF (the sensor that measures how much air is going into the motor) in my '01, it shifted WAY better than it had been doing. It had gotten me worried that the tranny was going, the way it would slip and/or jerk.
Also, fill in your location, and other info, if you please. We'd like to know you WELCOME to FTE!!!
#28
yes the pinging stopped..and i was thinking it was bad gas.....i can't beleive how much different it shifts now......the ford dealer put a new trans in my truck because it wasn't shifting right...new trans same ****...new fuel filter shifts like crazy now....i can't stop driving it now i am looking for every reason to go to the store ect. just to be in it......thanks again guys...as far as pulling i will do that soon but there is a huge pass where i live called cojon pass and it pulled it in OD at 70mph no problem...before it would be OD off and on the gas to keep 60mph.....POWAFUL..i tell you what i no longer want a powerstroke........
Rock on, that is one sick engine to have :-)
#29
I thought there might be one in the TECH folder, but alas, there is none.
In my Volant CAI install, there is a very detailed explanation WITH PICTURES. Go here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/..._F250_V10.html
For the tech folder, I've put together a quicky how to, at least on the 2-valve V10:
1) Remove air cleaner. Unsnap the band that goes around the air box, and separate the halves.
2) Pull up on the rear air box half, it should just pop out of the rubber grommets.
3) Disconnect the wire harness on the air box half that is still attached to the intake tube.
4) Loosen the hose clamp holding the air box half to the intake tube.
5) Remove air box half from the vehicle.
** At this point, you can see the MAF in the air box, and you can either just spray MAF cleaner through the air box from both sides, or continue on and remove the entire MAF assembly from the air box **
6) Looking at the face of the air box that the air cleaner sits in, you will see a few slots. In these slots are tabs that hold the MAF housing in the air box. If you pry GENTLY with a screw driver, the face of the air box will separate from the air box outer shell, and the MAF housing can be removed from the air box. Disconnect the MAF connector and remove the entire MAF housing.
7) Two anti-tamper Torx screws (they have a pin in the center of the head of the screw) hold the MAF sensor itself to the MAF housing. BE CAREFUL removing those screws. In my case, one of the screws didn't come out easily, and the brass insert in the plastic started to turn with the screwn. I had to crazy-glue it back in, which worked, but for this reason, you MAY NOT WANT to actually remove the MAF from the housing, and instead just spray the heck out of it.
8) Remove the torx screws, if they do not come easily don't force them. Pull the MAF sensor from the MAF housing.
9) Spray the MAF sensor, and maybe even CAREFULLY use a Q-TIP to clean the wires.
10) Reverse to reinstall. MAKE SURE that the rubber wiring plug on the bottom of the rear-most air box half is fully inserted and if it's loose, GLUE IT IN. If it falls out or leaks, it can cause unmetered air to get past the MAF and cause the engine to run lean. In my case, it did, and with headers it made a god-awful ticking noise in the headers themselves (gas burning after the exhaust valve opened), to the point where I thought they were leaking. They weren't
In my Volant CAI install, there is a very detailed explanation WITH PICTURES. Go here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/..._F250_V10.html
For the tech folder, I've put together a quicky how to, at least on the 2-valve V10:
1) Remove air cleaner. Unsnap the band that goes around the air box, and separate the halves.
2) Pull up on the rear air box half, it should just pop out of the rubber grommets.
3) Disconnect the wire harness on the air box half that is still attached to the intake tube.
4) Loosen the hose clamp holding the air box half to the intake tube.
5) Remove air box half from the vehicle.
** At this point, you can see the MAF in the air box, and you can either just spray MAF cleaner through the air box from both sides, or continue on and remove the entire MAF assembly from the air box **
6) Looking at the face of the air box that the air cleaner sits in, you will see a few slots. In these slots are tabs that hold the MAF housing in the air box. If you pry GENTLY with a screw driver, the face of the air box will separate from the air box outer shell, and the MAF housing can be removed from the air box. Disconnect the MAF connector and remove the entire MAF housing.
7) Two anti-tamper Torx screws (they have a pin in the center of the head of the screw) hold the MAF sensor itself to the MAF housing. BE CAREFUL removing those screws. In my case, one of the screws didn't come out easily, and the brass insert in the plastic started to turn with the screwn. I had to crazy-glue it back in, which worked, but for this reason, you MAY NOT WANT to actually remove the MAF from the housing, and instead just spray the heck out of it.
8) Remove the torx screws, if they do not come easily don't force them. Pull the MAF sensor from the MAF housing.
9) Spray the MAF sensor, and maybe even CAREFULLY use a Q-TIP to clean the wires.
10) Reverse to reinstall. MAKE SURE that the rubber wiring plug on the bottom of the rear-most air box half is fully inserted and if it's loose, GLUE IT IN. If it falls out or leaks, it can cause unmetered air to get past the MAF and cause the engine to run lean. In my case, it did, and with headers it made a god-awful ticking noise in the headers themselves (gas burning after the exhaust valve opened), to the point where I thought they were leaking. They weren't