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I'm having a bit of trouble with my 1992 F-150. The idle is moving around some, it's inconsistant. The big problem is the truck is dying when I come to a stop, I think the issues are related though. My check engine light is coming on and off too.
Try to get your problem codes out of the computer. They should tell you more about what is wrong. There is a scan tool available for your truck if you don't have one.
Thanks for the replies. I used the paper clip method this morning to pull the codes of the truck. They are:
15 - EEC permanent Read Only Memory (ROM) test failed.
63 - TPS circuit has intermittently failed below minimum 0.6 volts.
61 - ECT sensor has intermittently failed below 0.2 volts.
41 - HEGO sensor circuit indicates system lean (right side).
14 - Two or more successive erratic Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) pulses occurred, resulting in a possible engine miss or stall.
22 - MAP/BP sensor out of self test range.
have you had problems with your chargeing system? code 15 check all your grounds , clean them with sand paper or other means to have a shinny lug to stud,body or ground, code 22 check for bad hoses and air leaks, meaning check all the engine hoses for even very small cracks or a soft spongie feeling of them. lean mixture, hego is the heated o2 sensers. check again for a unmetered air leak or a leak at the exhaust manifold that would allow out side air to be drawn in to the metering system. more likely the leak will be on or near the right side bank."hoses,gaskets
the code for eec memory sorry that means a bad pcm/ecm
heres a web site with lots of usefull obd information www.obd-codes.com
fte users may find book marking this site very helpfull in checking code problems for any generic code or one of the many companies listed. also take notr this code information site keeps growing and adding every day to listed codes
Well I cleaned the idle air part and drove the truck around for a bit. Everything was perfect, even the fluxuation in RPMs while driving was gone.... then about 20 minutes into the drive the dreaded check engine light came on and the truck was struggling when I would come to a stop and the RPMs would fluxuate while driving. Although, it managed to keep itself running (barely) except for one time.
I would try to track down the source of the erratic PIP signal, whether it is a wiring problem or if the pickup sensor in the distributor is going bad, or if it is a problem with the TFI ignition module. The computer gets all timing information from the PIP in the distributor, so if it isn't working correctly, the computer is not getting the correct timing information it needs to operate the engine correctly, causing it to cut out. Your IAC valve is probably ok for now.
I wanted to make sure the code readings I am getting are correct, so I went and bought a code reader. Turns out my code reading skills from blinking lights is not so good .
Here are the real codes:
KEOE:
111 - System passed
122 - TPS circuit below minimum 0.6 volts.
173 - HEGO sensor circuit indicates system rich (right side)
KEOR:
536 - Brake On/Off circuit failure / switch not actuated during KOER test
632 - Overdrive cancel switch not changing state (E4OD)
Last edited by brianjw4; Dec 17, 2006 at 05:03 PM.
That's not as bad I guess. The TPS might be what is causing the idle drop. If you can test the TPS voltage when the problem occurs, that might tell you if that's the cause. It is an intermittent code, so also check for loose wires and dirty connections.
Yeah, I think it may be a connection issue too. It runs fine for a random amount of time and then the check engine light comes on and all the the problems start. I cleared the computer and ran the truck until the light came on and it was code 122 again.
I also found a major vacume leak. There is a hose that comes off some kind of vacume canister on the drivers side fender and it Ts off- one line goes to the top of the of the manifold and the other end of the T was just disconnected. I'm not sure where the disconnected hose actually connects to.
The broken off line to the vacuum canister sounds like the one for the cruise control. The vacuum reservoir you're referring to is mounted under the coolant recovery tank, right. The other is mounted on the passenger side, and that provides the vacuum for the EGR, TAB, and TAD valves.