im in the process of chanign my glow plug relay. 99 f250 california truck. when i disassembled the relay there was a metal type pigtail thats branched (the terminal that has power only when the key is in the on position) off to two other terminals that were supported by a bracket that was bolted down to one of the two glow plug mounts. question is the new relay is switched around so it wont fit that bracket, can i just put the 4 wires that were on that bracket to the terminal that will now only have power when the key is on or do i need a different relay? there were 2 blue wires and 1 brown wire and 1 yellow that were hooked up to this bracket? so is it safe to just hook all these wires to the terminal?

 

Did you get the gpr109? I have read that the 109 is rotated 90 degrees. i bought the motorcraft replacement from one of the site sponsors for 60 bucks. The relay for our trucks is the gpr110 but it is more expensive and it is the same relay as the 109 but rotated. Other people have said that they have used it and it works fine and the wires will reach the correct terminals.

 

ya its the 109. i just want to make sure that if i put all the extra wires that were originally attached to this bracket on the terminal that is active once the key is on the on position is ok to do and wont blow a fuse or anything.

 

You should be fine just rotating your connections 90* to fit where the new terminals are. It will function the same.

 

now its throwing a p1391 and p1393 I know this is low glow plug circuit on both banks. what do i do now.

 

i have a picture of the original gpr and the bracket im talkin about. ill put it in my gallery


https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...136293&width=0

 

I don't know anything about that bracket, mine didn't have one. But when you rotated your gpr 90* the wires that were on the small posts of the old gpr are on the small posts of the new gpr, right. and the wires on the large posts on the old gpr are on the large posts of the new gpr, right. The metal piece on your bracket would do basically the same thing as putting the two seperate wires onto the one terminal. I don't see how just putting the wires on the gpr post would throw any codes.

 

Well we changed out my GPR yesterday....

And I can tell you this from my own experience, GPR109 is not really the same thing as a GPR110. It looks the same, same bolts, same molding on the plastic, but not the same. Here's my story.

We went to NAPA and had the guy bring out both a GPR109 and a GPR110. They look identical from the outside except that mounting bracket is 90 degrees counter clockwise. I even had him look up the parts specs and they even pull the same electric specs. So I bought the GPR109 and we took it back to change out the relay. We got the relay on the posts but had a bit of trouble getting the wires to stretch that extra inch and a half or so to get it on the rotated posts. Well, we got it on and started to put the bolts on and **SNAP**...yep...the pressure from the stretched wire pulled the bolt right out of the plastic housing on the relay. It peeled like an old potato. Boyfriend threw a wrench across the yard. Dangit. Well we spent the next hour trying to get that GPR109 off, as the thing was such a cheap piece of crap, one of the bolts stripped quickly and with only using end wrenches. After getting the nut off the stripped bolt..the story continues...

And so back we went to NAPA, to get a GPR110. After comparing the GPR109 and GPR110 and taking apart the broken 109 and my old original OEM relay, here's what we found:
The original relay (and the GPR110) are much heavier and made out of much thicker plastic than the 109. Also after taking the two apart, we noticed that the original relay had insulation on the copper wires and heavier wiring on the inside, which the 109 did not.

Buyers beware. As the GPR109 LOOKS the same as the GPR110, from an electrical standpoint I don't believe they are. I was surprised at how quickly that GPR109 just snapped into pieces, just from the pressure those large terminal wires were putting on the bolts from being stretched.

As they might function, I will be a bit curious to see what these GPR109's do in any given amount of time, as it was obvious to me they are not very well constructed.

Needless to say, truck is FIXED. It was the relay.

FYI jumping the truck with a screwdriver between both large terminals on the GPR is a great way to get the truck started when it won't start and you think you have a bad relay.....

 

That doesn't look like it has any electrical significance, but it's definatly different than my 2000 non-CA truck. Thats not part of the infamous 'glow plug controller' that CA trucks have, is it?

 

thats what i figured but now its throwing p1391 and p1393 codes. which states low voltage on both glow plug banks. I live in ca so i dont have problems with cold start, so i think i might not of had glow plugs since ive owned the truck. maybe now because of this and power is gettin to the glow plugs its telling me i have some bad glow plugs maybe? let me knwo what you think.

 

my brother has an 00 psd ca truck and it doesnt even have a gpr, it has this silver box in the same location that im guessing is the gpr controller. its got the AIH relay but no gpr. kind of weird.

 

I knew the gp controller was different, the silver box sounds familiar. Dangle's must be an early 99 thing.

Just for the heck of it, why don't you check voltage on the switched side of the relay, key on and engine cold. Compare it to battery voltage.

Maybe a weak battery would throw that code? Dropping to 11v when the plugs are cooking?

 

well its definetly not an early 99 truck. i know that for a fact. but the multimeter readings on the one ppost i might have to check, i only used a test light so far to see if both terminals were gettin power when the key was on. the truck starts up no problem has no trouble crankin over, i would assume if i had some serious voltage problems with the batteries it would barely want to start and thats not the case. the batteries are pretty old though. so when i test the post im looking for anything over 12 volts, or what kind of number am i lookin for.

 

Several things here. First, even if it is a Cal model and has the GPR controller, it should still have a GPR. The controller simply enforces stricter CARB requirements.

The funky bracket is just a means to hook up additional wires to the same post. Re-use the bracket or put those wires on the one post.

As for voltage, I have not looked in a few days but seem to recall the voltage should be anywhere between 8.5 to whatever the battery is holding. There has been speculation that 8.5 is too low because the pcm requires a minimum of 11.5 but that is another story and is measured differently. Besides, the GPs pull a big load.

I also believe that measuring across both big terminals is a fools test because if I am not mistaken that is not how it is done and does not test the GPR. Reason, you complete the circuit with the test device and do not test the key on. The proper test is by testing from the big terminal lead to the UVCs to ground with the key on in the WTS cycle. It should be the large black wire.

 

I only assume early 99 sionce I have an early '00 and don't have the 'bridge' you posted in your gallery. As I posted earlier, it doesn't look to have any electrical significane. Also, as posted earlier, it doesn't seem that your truck has a GP Controller. If able, I guess I'd suggest reusing the 'bridge', though I'm not sure what practical purpose it serves.

I can think of no reason that the GP side of the GPR would be any lower than battery voltage, it should connect them directly.

A test light can be decieving, a very low current 12v will look the same as a good, high voltage pair of starting batteries. A multimeter will also give a false reading, refered to as a 'surface charge'. The best way to check is to disconnect the suspect battery (or both) and perform a load test on it. You should be able to get this at any reasonable parts shop. They should do it for free as they want to sell you a battery (or 2).

Checking Voltage across the big trerminals is actually a good test of the GPR IF you know what your looking for, otherwise, as in most electronics, false interpretation leads to incorrect conclusions.