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Rear wheel stuck on.

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Old Dec 14, 2006 | 12:52 PM
  #1  
KyleL's Avatar
KyleL
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Rear wheel stuck on.

I am trying to install new shoes, cylinders, and possibly hardware. I am having a problem getting the passenger side rear tire off.

The driverside tire came off no problem as soon as I took the lugnuts off.

I backed off the brakes first. But the passenger sides teeth are striped making it difficult. Does the star adjustment wheel need to be completely compressed before the wheel will come off? It shouldn't, right, since the drum is seperate?

Or could this more likely be the result of a problem I had with a leaf spring on the driversside awhile back that has since been resolved. This probably put a lot of the weight on the passenger side. Maybe the rim is just tight to the hub? I shouldn't heat it up because of the bearing right? I tried WD40 and a few wacks at it, but couldn't get a swing on some sides and there is no real great place to hit on.
Can't wait to have nice confident feeling brakes
--------------------
87 F250 6.9 daily driver, xcab, 4x4
gathering parts for wvo conversion.

86 f250 6.9, xcab, 4x4, plow,
 
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Old Dec 14, 2006 | 08:26 PM
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ReAX
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From: Central Florida
Don't heat it, or beat directly on the wheel. You don't want to deform the wheel because it will never ride right again.

If you have acorn lug nuts, try putting them back on really tighten them. Lift both tires off the ground, and spin the tire as you hit the rubber with a rubber mallot. It sounds like you have drums so you can try to pry against the drum and the tire. Be gentle, anything you damage might have to be replaced.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2006 | 01:24 PM
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I was able to stick a board across the back and hit on it. That popped it off.
Thanks,
 
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Old Dec 15, 2006 | 03:32 PM
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That is the preferred way.

I put anti-seize around the hub and around the base of the lugnuts on my vehicles. If you have the fine pitch thread lugnuts, you should clean the threads and put oil (I use PB Blaster) on the top of the studs. That way the nuts go on properly and then pick up anti-seize on the bottom without the exposed lugs above the nuts picking up grime. If you have coarse thread studs then just use anti-seize on the whole lug.

If you have two piece lug nuts you should oil the nut.

If you are by the side of the road and this happens, just loosen the lugnuts slightly, put the vehicle down, and drive forward a few feet.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2006 | 09:27 PM
  #5  
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wickymustang
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I would caution anybody who is using anti-sieze on lug studs. We do a lot of tires at work and have gotten several notices from permatex, the company that makes a lot of things including anti-sieze. They state: "It is not a good idea to use anti-sieze on the studs at all, as it is "too slippery" and can easily result in improper torque on the lug nuts, which can lead to warped rotors, stripped lug studs, and a bunch of other problems." Having said that, I, along with several old timers I have had the pleasure of learning from always use just a tiny dab. This keeps the nut from destroying threads and keeps things easily removable in case of future work.

As for the wheel being stuck on, you can hit on the rubber as hard as you want. Just make sure you are ready for the nasty rebound! Like you said, put a 2x4 across the wheel so it is pushing on the rubber and swing away. As a last resort, you can put the lug nuts on hand tight and drive the vehicle a little, but be careful as this can damage all sorts of things.
 
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