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if its running smooth, doesnt seem to have a miss in a cylinder and isnt leaking fuel from the topside ... DONT MESS WITH IT.
keep using fuel additive for lubricating the fuel system in each tank full.
if you break the line loose at each injector you can locate the offending cylinder, then just pull that injector and send it a pump shop where it can be "pop" tested. If it passes the "pop" test you"ll need to figure out the problem within that cylinder- valves, rings,gasket, eroded liner;etc. I hope for expence sake it's the injector.
With 200K on original injectors I would bet that none would pass the pop test. Buy a rebuilt or new set on E-bay from Diesel Care and Performance, get the same Code as you currently are running B, C, D, E, G, or ?. The code is stamped on one of the flats of the injector, change out return lines and o-rings while your at it. The stuff is cheap enough 150-200 dollars depending on if you buy new or rebuilt, so just get er done. IMO
Fuel nozzles and fuel injectors are a wear item. The tips will errode and not atomize fuel correctly. I would definitely replace them. Bad nozzles and injectors are what takes out most cylinders. You are playing with fire when running them along time. I don't disagree that alot of people have gotten alot of miles on nozzles and injectors but I have also made alot of money fixing the ones that didn't. It is not waisted money.
Your "miss" can be from a nozzle that isn't atomizing right. The fuel won't mix with the air right which will cause a stubbling idle. Good luck.
I installed new glow plugs and a controller, the next step is the injectors and return lines. When I was replacing the glow plugs I noticed three juctions on the return lines that looked like they were weeping, everywhere else is dry. The truck currently starts and idles ok, when I stomp on the throttle I get white smoke.
I changed the fuel filter and filled the new filter with dieselklean, I started the truck and for the first time I could hear the engine, no rod knocks, no sticking lifters!
Let us know how your new injectors workout.
FYI: HarborFreight has a compression gauge #93644 that has the 6.9L adapter for $19.99, if you look at the web they have the old one listed, the one I purchased has twice the number of adapters including a 10-1.00 mm.
With 200K on original injectors I would bet that none would pass the pop test. Buy a rebuilt or new set on E-bay from Diesel Care and Performance, get the same Code as you currently are running B, C, D, E, G, or ?. The code is stamped on one of the flats of the injector, change out return lines and o-rings while your at it. The stuff is cheap enough 150-200 dollars depending on if you buy new or rebuilt, so just get er done. IMO
I read in one of the previous posts that injectors and IP from a 1994 DI turbo diesel should be used as a replacement for the 93 IDI. Any one got a comment?
My 93 non turbo was 5013 pump with code E injectors, The 93.5 - 94 turbo motor used a 50?? (not sure of #) and G codes. More fuel for the turbo application!
I read in one of the previous posts that injectors and IP from a 1994 DI turbo diesel should be used as a replacement for the 93 IDI. Any one got a comment?
Shouldn't that say 94 IDI instead of 94 DI? I remember reading that previous post as did Tom and I wondered at that time if a DI turbo motor injector would fit into an IDI motor.
93 and 94 turbo used G injectors
DB2 5069 with the automatic tranny
DB2 5070 with a standard tranny
92 thru 94 non turbo used E injectors
DB2 5028 with an automatic tranny
DB2 5013 with a manual tranny
Dave, I have a 93 non-turbo w/manual tranny. It has E injectors and a 5028 IP. I suppose the IP might not be original. What's the difference between the 5028 and 5013? More fuel out of the 5028?
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