sayin' hello,
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 881
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From: Sudbury, ONT.
sayin' hello,
I just signed up and wanted to say hello. I've got a 68 Merc M-100 long box 2x4, with a 3:25 9-inch limited slip out back. I'm looking for a little feed back on my new engine/ trans combo. ( I wish I'd found this site before I laid out the cash!). My C6 came back with heavy-duty clutches and bands, A B&M shift kit, and a 2500 rpm stall, and a B&M mega-shifter.
My '79 460 has:
- reground/ polished crank
- C9?? rods with the football head, rod bolts
- Keith Black 10:1 hypereutectic pistons, w/ Speed-Pro moly-faced rings
- Comp Cams Extreme Energy hydraulic cam, 218/224" duration at .050" lift
- D3VE heads with the intake ports matched to the intake manifold, and those big air ports/bumps removed from the exhaust ports, stock (but new) valves, guides, springs, retainers, keepers, rockers, and push rods.
- Weind Stealth SCJ intake manifold
- Holley 670 cfm Street Avenger
- Sanderson coated "shorty" headers, into a 3" duals, w/ Flowmasters
- Stock distributor w/ Pertronix points conversion kit, Accel wires, new plugs
- everything else that I can think of is basically stock
The truck will be my daily driver in the summer, with occasional light to light races.
So...how does it sound? Anyone with experience have any tips for me? Thanks in advance from the frosty north.
My '79 460 has:
- reground/ polished crank
- C9?? rods with the football head, rod bolts
- Keith Black 10:1 hypereutectic pistons, w/ Speed-Pro moly-faced rings
- Comp Cams Extreme Energy hydraulic cam, 218/224" duration at .050" lift
- D3VE heads with the intake ports matched to the intake manifold, and those big air ports/bumps removed from the exhaust ports, stock (but new) valves, guides, springs, retainers, keepers, rockers, and push rods.
- Weind Stealth SCJ intake manifold
- Holley 670 cfm Street Avenger
- Sanderson coated "shorty" headers, into a 3" duals, w/ Flowmasters
- Stock distributor w/ Pertronix points conversion kit, Accel wires, new plugs
- everything else that I can think of is basically stock
The truck will be my daily driver in the summer, with occasional light to light races.
So...how does it sound? Anyone with experience have any tips for me? Thanks in advance from the frosty north.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,526
Likes: 2
From: fargo, nd
welcome to fte 
imo you wouldnt have needed the stall converter, and since youre using it mostly on the street a stall keeps your rpms too high for decent mileage... at 10-1 compression with that cam you better be running premium- and tell anyone else that ever drives it not to use regular, and since youre pushing the limit on compression i would have gone forged pistons for a little more money- because if someone does put regular in you may have some detonation, and your hyper pistons can shatter if they see any detonation- forged pistons are much more detonation resistant... if you went out of your way to find the c9 rods you would have been better off with aftermarket ones, with the money you spent on getting your crank reground you would have been more than halfway to a nice stroker crank, you should have gotten springs and retainers to match the cam instead of stock replacements... oh and you should have gotten some long tube headers for better low end power- shorties are only good for high rpms... im sorry to nitpick but hey- you asked 
imo you wouldnt have needed the stall converter, and since youre using it mostly on the street a stall keeps your rpms too high for decent mileage... at 10-1 compression with that cam you better be running premium- and tell anyone else that ever drives it not to use regular, and since youre pushing the limit on compression i would have gone forged pistons for a little more money- because if someone does put regular in you may have some detonation, and your hyper pistons can shatter if they see any detonation- forged pistons are much more detonation resistant... if you went out of your way to find the c9 rods you would have been better off with aftermarket ones, with the money you spent on getting your crank reground you would have been more than halfway to a nice stroker crank, you should have gotten springs and retainers to match the cam instead of stock replacements... oh and you should have gotten some long tube headers for better low end power- shorties are only good for high rpms... im sorry to nitpick but hey- you asked
Last edited by darrin1999; Dec 11, 2006 at 08:23 PM.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 292
Likes: 0
From: Fort Worth,Texas
Originally Posted by 68murc
I just signed up and wanted to say hello. I've got a 68 Merc M-100 long box 2x4, with a 3:25 9-inch limited slip out back. I'm looking for a little feed back on my new engine/ trans combo. ( I wish I'd found this site before I laid out the cash!). My C6 came back with heavy-duty clutches and bands, A B&M shift kit, and a 2500 rpm stall, and a B&M mega-shifter.
My '79 460 has:
- reground/ polished crank
- C9?? rods with the football head, rod bolts
- Keith Black 10:1 hypereutectic pistons, w/ Speed-Pro moly-faced rings
- Comp Cams Extreme Energy hydraulic cam, 218/224" duration at .050" lift
- D3VE heads with the intake ports matched to the intake manifold, and those big air ports/bumps removed from the exhaust ports, stock (but new) valves, guides, springs, retainers, keepers, rockers, and push rods.
- Weind Stealth SCJ intake manifold
- Holley 670 cfm Street Avenger
- Sanderson coated "shorty" headers, into a 3" duals, w/ Flowmasters
- Stock distributor w/ Pertronix points conversion kit, Accel wires, new plugs
- everything else that I can think of is basically stock
The truck will be my daily driver in the summer, with occasional light to light races.
So...how does it sound? Anyone with experience have any tips for me? Thanks in advance from the frosty north.
My '79 460 has:
- reground/ polished crank
- C9?? rods with the football head, rod bolts
- Keith Black 10:1 hypereutectic pistons, w/ Speed-Pro moly-faced rings
- Comp Cams Extreme Energy hydraulic cam, 218/224" duration at .050" lift
- D3VE heads with the intake ports matched to the intake manifold, and those big air ports/bumps removed from the exhaust ports, stock (but new) valves, guides, springs, retainers, keepers, rockers, and push rods.
- Weind Stealth SCJ intake manifold
- Holley 670 cfm Street Avenger
- Sanderson coated "shorty" headers, into a 3" duals, w/ Flowmasters
- Stock distributor w/ Pertronix points conversion kit, Accel wires, new plugs
- everything else that I can think of is basically stock
The truck will be my daily driver in the summer, with occasional light to light races.
So...how does it sound? Anyone with experience have any tips for me? Thanks in advance from the frosty north.
Have you got this motor in your truck and on the road?
Bill
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 881
Likes: 1
From: Sudbury, ONT.
more 460 feed back
Thanks for the feed back so far! The engine and trans are sitting on a stand and will be installed over the winter, so I won't know how it runs till the spring. For darrin1999, nobody will be driving the truck without me in the passenger seat, and yeah, I'll be fillin it with premium. When I tore the engine down, it already had the C9 rods (I lucked out there), I didn't have to find them. The shorty headers were the only ones that fit. I tried 3 different sets, and they all hit something somewhere, I figured the shorties would be better than manifolds. The truck already had a tired 460, I'm just building a new one to replace it. As far as aftermarket cranks/ parts, I assume you've never had to pay the exchange/ duty/ shipping to send parts from the USA to northern Ontario, Canada. It's WAY cheaper to get your old parts fixed, than to have new ones sent up here! I was thinking later on, (when more money magically appears) to upgrade to those bee-hive springs. Keep the comments comin, thanks again from the frosty north.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 292
Likes: 0
From: Fort Worth,Texas
Originally Posted by 68murc
Thanks for the feed back so far! The engine and trans are sitting on a stand and will be installed over the winter, so I won't know how it runs till the spring. For darrin1999, nobody will be driving the truck without me in the passenger seat, and yeah, I'll be fillin it with premium. When I tore the engine down, it already had the C9 rods (I lucked out there), I didn't have to find them. The shorty headers were the only ones that fit. I tried 3 different sets, and they all hit something somewhere, I figured the shorties would be better than manifolds. The truck already had a tired 460, I'm just building a new one to replace it. As far as aftermarket cranks/ parts, I assume you've never had to pay the exchange/ duty/ shipping to send parts from the USA to northern Ontario, Canada. It's WAY cheaper to get your old parts fixed, than to have new ones sent up here! I was thinking later on, (when more money magically appears) to upgrade to those bee-hive springs. Keep the comments comin, thanks again from the frosty north.
</OYou say you will be using the truck as a daily driver, I would do some research and see if you wouldn’t be better off with a lower speed stall converter. at most highway speeds your converter will be slipping a lot and you won't get good mileage.<O
</OI didn't see what you were running for a timing set up. You need to be running a full roller timing set set up in the center keyway. at the least check this out. I see your truck is old enough to have the earlier timing set but what age is your motor?<O
</OBill
<O</O
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 881
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From: Sudbury, ONT.
It's going to have a early 'sraight-up' double roller timing set. At first I thought the same thing about the stall speed, but I rode in a friends truck with a 2500 rpm stall, and it was fine for every day driving. His truck cruised at 80k (50mph) at about 2300 RPM. I guess it's more of an RPM range, I was told mine is a 2200-2500 RPM stall.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,526
Likes: 2
From: fargo, nd
i would have still done without the converter, i like the stock- you hit the gas you go now, not wait for the engine to spin up 2000 rpm before you accelerate... its a pain to drive a stall in town
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Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 881
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From: Sudbury, ONT.
Dyno programs?
Thanks for the help so far, I'm probably going to talk to the guy who built my trans to discuss stall speeds. I thought it would kind of help in town with the higher stall speed. That way I wouldn't have to use both feet on the brake pedal to hold it still at a set of lights...It's amazing how much low end torque these engines make! I was also wondering about those dyno simulation programs, and how accurate they are. When I entered all my parts and info, I get about 445hp at 5000 RPM, and 525 ft/lbs. at 3500 RPM. Does this sound right? It would be great if it was?
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,526
Likes: 2
From: fargo, nd
if youre worried about stoplights id try to find a 1000-1500 rpm stall... any more than that and itll slip too much for a daily driver... those dyno numbers all depend on how well ported your heads are and how well tuned your engine is... also those would be flywheel numbers... you have to figure around 15-20% loss for drivetrane... if you took it to a chassis dyno id say probably around 330 rear wheel horse
