ok guys i know this has been worked over dozens of times,but just for the need to stay sane, i'm getting ready to replace the ip and injectors,the basic understanding i have is take the two blots off the timing cover to expose the two bolts? that attach the pump to the gear.(i understand that i do not want to pull the timing cover becuse that might release the gear and screw up the timing).so then you remove the lines from aft side,remove connectors,remove three bolts that attach from the aft side of timing chain cover,and the pump should pull out and not disturbe the timing??the new pump will have a dowel pin to ensure it is aligned correctly?thanks in advance great site for us newbs.

 

There are 2 bolts holding the access cover onto the front of the gear housing. Behind the cover are 3 bolts that hold the IP to the gear.

When I removed mine, I unscrewed the lines from all 8 injectors, and the only line I removed from the pump (prior to taking it off) is the fuel inlet line that goes from the filter to the center of the rear of the pump. I only took that one off because I couldn't slide it far enough towards the back of the engine to be able to get the shaft out of the IP gear housing with that line still on the pump.

So basically I removed the pump with all 8 injector lines attached. Its a lot easier to swap the lines from the old pump to the new on when you have the lines off the engine and the two pumps side-by-side. Besides you're going to need to loosen the lines at the injectors to bleed the air out of them anyway.

 

A good artical is available on the "other" diesel forum,but we appear to be **** about posting links to the other guy's information. I tried but wasn't allowed- how come moderator??

 

KJLYPW I hear you on the being warned.......I have almost 13,000 posts over there and tell the guy/gals about this site all the time. The result is a noticeable cross posting of questions with equally good answers....

I don't want to hijack this post so anyone who wants IP R&R info old trucks or new just email me.. specify year of truck.

 

thank you all for the response,i just did not want to pull the wrong thing and bang up the timing, so as long as you dont get that gear under the timing cover out some way you should not screw the timing right? thats again all.

 

Bob,

The one thing I did not see mentioned above is that your new IP should have a mark on the mounting flange at the 12 o'clock position were it bolts to the timing cover housing. There is a similar mark on your existing timing cover housing. The reason for the mark is the final timing adjustment as there is always a little bit of play in the dowel pin which could easily throw your timing off a degree or so.

Your new pump will be pre-timed so all you need to do is line up the two marks perfectly and your timing will be set correctly. You may have to twist the pump a little to line it up before you tighten the three nuts that hold it to the housing. Install all the injection lines (except the main fuel line in the center) on the pump and tighten before re-installing the new pump.

You will need to get yourself a 9/16" combination wrench and bend the "open" end about 80 degrees as a regular 9/16" open end wrench won't fit and you can't use a socket to get the pump mounting nuts off. I just heated up one of my cheaper 9/16" combo wrenches with my torch and bend it in my vice. Also to start your 9/16" nuts before you tighten the three 5/16", 12 point that bolt the timing gear to the pump shaft. You won't be able to get some of the the 9/16" mounting nuts on the studs if you do it the other way.


Seb.....

 

while your at it get a return line kit for the injectors,beter safe than than sorry. your going to need a 5/16'' or 8mm. 12point socket for the timing gear bolts-there's three of 'em. it's easy enough-good luck!