Breaker point alignment tool?
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Huntsville, AL
Breaker point alignment tool?
For those of you still running points, what tool are you using for breaker point alignment? I'm looking at an old shop manual showing a "breaker point alignment tool". This looks like a special tool. My points are wearing off-center and a little tweaking would help.
New User
Joined: Jan 2008
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I use a screwdriver.
a small file to clean off the pits.
On a set of points: You have Gap and Dwell Angle to consider.
as well as rubbing block wear and lubrication.
without lube,I have seen points become totally shot in 10 miles of driving.
a small file to clean off the pits.
On a set of points: You have Gap and Dwell Angle to consider.
as well as rubbing block wear and lubrication.
without lube,I have seen points become totally shot in 10 miles of driving.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 14,325
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From: Island Southeast Alaska
I remove cap and rotor. hook up dwell meter. remove plugs so engine spins free. use a remote start button and set the dwell angle. I use feeler gage to get close enough to make sure she runs first. Hay it works for me. and is 100 percent right on every time. OK I'm done.
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Gadsden Purchase
The points not lining up sounds like you need new points?
I was a VW dunebuggy nut, so what do i know? :/
That a Nicholson "tungsten points file" was one of the best things I ever bought, that's what "I know". ;)
But the alignment tool sounds cool, got a picture? :)
Off hand it rememinds me of my days in the SP's System Signal Shop and rebuilding signal realys. I still have most of my tools many of which we made ourselves for bending the contact's supports and backup springs etc.
Sure you can't just make one? :)
Might have to start your "slot" making with a modified hacksaw blade... like relief-grind it and reducing the "set" both at the same time. The bending-tool making itself is the easy part, it's the bending-tool tool-maker-making that's tricky? ;)
Let me know what you think and show me a picture if you can.
Alvin in AZ (retired signalape)
ps- found a retired "car knocker" on a "gun" forum, us dumb-railroaders are everywhere :)
I was a VW dunebuggy nut, so what do i know? :/
That a Nicholson "tungsten points file" was one of the best things I ever bought, that's what "I know". ;)
But the alignment tool sounds cool, got a picture? :)
Off hand it rememinds me of my days in the SP's System Signal Shop and rebuilding signal realys. I still have most of my tools many of which we made ourselves for bending the contact's supports and backup springs etc.
Sure you can't just make one? :)
Might have to start your "slot" making with a modified hacksaw blade... like relief-grind it and reducing the "set" both at the same time. The bending-tool making itself is the easy part, it's the bending-tool tool-maker-making that's tricky? ;)
Let me know what you think and show me a picture if you can.
Alvin in AZ (retired signalape)
ps- found a retired "car knocker" on a "gun" forum, us dumb-railroaders are everywhere :)
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From: Huntsville, AL
g..hereiam.. Where do you get the KD-111 tool?
I guess you could use needle nose pliers or something like that but this tool in the shop manual looks like the way to go.
I could just toss the points and go with a conversion but I enjoy trying to squeeze all I can out these old systems.
I guess you could use needle nose pliers or something like that but this tool in the shop manual looks like the way to go.
I could just toss the points and go with a conversion but I enjoy trying to squeeze all I can out these old systems.
Last edited by BigShelby; Dec 11, 2006 at 07:42 PM.
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Joined: Aug 2005
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what Big Shelby is talking about is to align the points so they sit pareall, flat with each other i dont know where u can get one now days maybe snap on tools i wish i would have bought one years ago. every once in a while i could use one my self on my 69 f250
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Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Gadsden Purchase
Originally Posted by bucklee
i dont know where u can get one now days maybe snap on tools i wish i would have bought one years ago. every once in a while i could use one my self on my 69 f250
But I need a picture and Gdawg's KD111 idea... I couldn't find it any where. :/
Alvin in AZ
Posting Legend
Joined: Sep 2001
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I used one all the time as part of a tuneup. If the points are not aligned properly they will wear rapidly which throws off timing. The tool slips down over the fixed contact and allows fine control over bending the bracket to align the contact with the one on the cam follower. Never bend the cam follower bar or pivot point. Just slapping a set of points in and setting the dwell with a meter or gap with a feeler gauge is not a proper installation. Without the specialized tool it is difficult to align the points properly but it can be done. I would suggest a good pair of curved jaw needle nose pliers.
After the points were aligned the dwell or gap could be set. One site out there lists that the tool was used to bend the contact to set the gap but that is incorrect.
After the points were aligned the dwell or gap could be set. One site out there lists that the tool was used to bend the contact to set the gap but that is incorrect.
Last edited by Torque1st; Dec 11, 2006 at 09:07 PM.
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From: Gadsden Purchase
Originally Posted by Torque1st
I used one all the time...
Anyway that tool would be much more tricky to make than what we were making and using for relays. But can still be done. Looks like two little holes need to be drilled then everything inside, between those two holes, needs to be cut/ground away... incliding -half of each hole-. See it? :)
Making stuff like that is a trial and error exercise, you drill the two holes the best you can, then measure the crap out of them ;) and decide to keep them or start over with two more holes etc. Hole placement is one of the trickiest things to do IMO.
When making a pocket knife blade by hand, the hole is drilled first thing, then all the cutting and filing is done around that hole.
Ooooo... just got an idea... drill a hole into the end of some "closed" long nosed pliers then when you opened them they would look a lot like that tool huh? :)
Alvin in AZ (born to modify the crap outta stuff!:)
Last edited by Alvin in AZ; Dec 12, 2006 at 04:22 AM.
Posting Legend
Joined: Sep 2001
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You don't need to use the quote function for the post above yours...
The tool is made from bar stock and the side grooves are cut with a milling cutter. After the tool is machined it is heat treated. The ends are different sizes for different widths of breaker contacts.
A pair of needle nose pliers could be ground with a Dremel tool cutoff wheel if you had the patience.
The tool is made from bar stock and the side grooves are cut with a milling cutter. After the tool is machined it is heat treated. The ends are different sizes for different widths of breaker contacts.
A pair of needle nose pliers could be ground with a Dremel tool cutoff wheel if you had the patience.
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Huntsville, AL
You would think that as common of a maintenance function as replacing points was that this tool would be widely available. I wonder if NAPA carries it?
Of course if this tool is non-existant than that would be another excuse to do the conversion to electronic.
Of course if this tool is non-existant than that would be another excuse to do the conversion to electronic.