I have a short (~2') set of 1 AWG cables with screw-post lugs on one end and an Anderson quick connect on the other. I was planning to hook it up to the passenger side battery to hook up a 2kw inverter as needed (yes, I'm planning on doing the BPC idle mod this weekend). I was thinking about using the quick connect to hook up jumper cables, too. My question is this: I've heard some say to never hook the ground to the neg post on the charge vehicle due to gasses, explosion, and other horrors. If I connect pos to battery and neg to frame will the inverter still function properly? I think it will, because electrically it seems to be the same as hooking to pos/neg battery posts, but I have been amazed before at how little I actually know for sure about electrical stuff . Just looking for a best practices approach here. Thanks in advance!

 

Engine block / frame is the same electrically as the neg post on battery. Your inverter won't know the difference. Just make sure that the connect point is clean.

 

BPofMD is right. But there are other considerations. Done that way the negative cable to the battery will now be handling the load of your inverter. Cranking the starter may overload this cable if the inverter is pulling a heavy load. Not to mention the headlights and accessories use that wire too. I think you'd be wiser to connect it directly to the battery terminals. The gas explosion issue it only a concern when you are actually connecting the circuit, so make sure the inverter is off when you connect the wires to the battery terminals and always make the negative connection last. Those quick connects should be ok.

 

These quickconnects are 175 amp with 1 AWG crimped on. I definitely don't plan to plug in the inverter unless the truck is already running and the inverter is off. With the quickconnect, the pos/neg connection are made at the same time. With the BPC mod, I understand the truck will rev up as required to keep the battery charged. Let me know if I'm missing something here, I'm just trying to learn as I go.

 

Right on the mod. So one of the quick connect ends is perminantly mounted to the battery? That could work.

 

Yeah, the 2' qc whip is permanently attached to the battery and I just tuck the qc down out of the way. Pull it out and hook up as above. Still playing with the setup, but looks like the inverter lays across the radiator with the hood just resting against it to keep it from moving around. Run an extension cord to wherever. Those doggone battery connector on the truck are not made for easy hookups, are they? Kind of a pita. Wish there were some side posts or second set of screw posts somewhere,..oh well, it is what it is. Thanks for the pointers, guys.

 

try your local auto supply for some terminals of this style.
http://www.globalsources.com/gsol/I/...1002331772.htm
The top bolts will connect lots of extras.

 

The ones Netfly posted work well, I've used them. But if you want a set of premium battery terminals, head down to your local car audio shop and take a look. I got a set of solid brass, gold plated Stinger terminals that I used to hook-up my winch, lights, and CB in my trail rig and it already had several openings that ranged from 8AWG down to 1AWG that you simply put the wire in and screw down an allen head. The things been on there for years and has absolutely no corrosion. Greatest little terminal I've used.

 

As I understand it, when giving a jump to someone with a dead battery you make the final negative connection to a non-batery ground due to the explosion hazard from hydrogen gas coming off the battery. I've seen tons of heavy service vehicles that have the QC plugs hanging out the grill and the jumper cables have spring clamps on one end and the other half of the QC plug on the other. Any spark from making the connection would then be well away from the possible source of explosion(battery).

If you install the QC plug to your battery you can put the other end on your inverter(if it's not hard wired) and then go to a welding or electrical supply store and get some welding cable and make up your own set of custom jumper cables and put another QC plug half on that cable. Now your hard wired QC can be used for multiple functions like your inverter and custom jumper cables along with anything else like a winch that needs a high amp connection.

If you run power to the rear you could put the same QC plug back there. That way if you have a front receiver hitch and a hitch mounted winch you are all set on both ends. If someone's stuck on the side of the road and needs a jump you could just pull up in front of them and back up to the front of their truck and plug the jumper cables right in...

As with all electrical wiring, bigger cable size is needed for higher amps and longer runs at high loads. If you really wanted to you could make your jumper cables 50' long and run 2/0 welding leads for conductors....

 

Daddycat, you hit the nail right on one of its heads. That's pretty much how I have it configured. 2' whip with qc on one end and ring lugs on the end to battery, another 2' whip just like it with qc attached to inverter. I also have a 10' run of 1 AWG on my TT running from 2 grp 31 deep cycle battery bank to inside the trailer. I will put a qc on the inside end of that so I can use the inverter in the truck or the TT. I also am planning to get a smaller true sine wave inverter for use in the TT for the stuff that doesn't like modified sine.

Good idea about running cable to rear of truck - I feel another project coming.... I had a front hitch on my Exploder, but haven't done the truck yet - another good idea. I am researching the terminal replacements suggested by Netfly and EnviroCon, as well. For some reason it just seemed easier to cuss at it rather than replace it .

Edit: I keep calling it he BPC mod, but it's the BCP - Batter Charge Protect. I'm like the dyslexic insomniac agnostic who stayed up all night wondering if there really is a Dog.