help
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Freshman User
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help
hello all i am having trouble with my 84 f150. i hav espent the last month fixing the breaks and the front now work perfectly but the rear don't work at all and i can't figure it out they are bled and i see a littel fluid on them but the master cylender is still full. it makes no sense to me. any help would be apriciated.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2006
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From: gloucester va
did you adjust the brake shoes ? If they are bled and there is no air in them then that should be all that they need. To adjust them you unscrew the little wheel that is on the bottom of the shoes and put the drum back on and check them.
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Joined: Jan 2005
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From: North Central Montana
What do you mean you see a little fluid on them? You shouldn't see any fluid unless you spilled it bleeding them.
Have you replaced the master cylinder? It could cause this problem. You should be able to get one from your parts store for under $30. If you bleed it the old fashioned way by pumping the pedal as opposed to using air pressure, make sure to follow the bench bleeding procedure.
Also blow out the distribution lines to each slave cylinder. Take out the bleeder, make sure it is clean, reinstall it open some, blow air from where the line connects to the master cylinder to each brake bleeder one at a time. Check the lines for kinks, leaks or flat spots too.
The smaller front part of the master cylinder is for the back brakes.
The rear slave cylinders could be bad as well, that is less likely, i have only seen a few go bad in the past (front calipers go bad regularly). I suspect you could replace both for less than $50. When replacing front calipers, replace the flexible lines to them as well.
Bottom line when doing brake work is make sure the lines are clean, if you replace some stuff and left old dirty fluid in the lines your trouble could start all over again.
Have you replaced the master cylinder? It could cause this problem. You should be able to get one from your parts store for under $30. If you bleed it the old fashioned way by pumping the pedal as opposed to using air pressure, make sure to follow the bench bleeding procedure.
Also blow out the distribution lines to each slave cylinder. Take out the bleeder, make sure it is clean, reinstall it open some, blow air from where the line connects to the master cylinder to each brake bleeder one at a time. Check the lines for kinks, leaks or flat spots too.
The smaller front part of the master cylinder is for the back brakes.
The rear slave cylinders could be bad as well, that is less likely, i have only seen a few go bad in the past (front calipers go bad regularly). I suspect you could replace both for less than $50. When replacing front calipers, replace the flexible lines to them as well.
Bottom line when doing brake work is make sure the lines are clean, if you replace some stuff and left old dirty fluid in the lines your trouble could start all over again.
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Freshman User
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i did replace the rear line because they were not hooked up when i got it do to the fact a line burst and bleed them the convetionell way aka push the pedel. due to the fact it is the only way i know of but i might not have bleed them well enough. how do you bleed with air pressure
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Never leave brake fluid on the shoes. Use brake cleaner to make them spotless before assembly.
The shoes have to be adjusted so they Just skiff the drum when turned.
also, Please put the topic in the title.
ie: Rear brakes won't work
The word "Help" means nothing to people searching the topic in the title.
Plus it lets us know what the actual topic is just in case I person writes an essay and it's hard to figure out the question
.
The shoes have to be adjusted so they Just skiff the drum when turned.
also, Please put the topic in the title.
ie: Rear brakes won't work
The word "Help" means nothing to people searching the topic in the title.
Plus it lets us know what the actual topic is just in case I person writes an essay and it's hard to figure out the question
.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Too close to Houston
Originally Posted by dumdum9599
i have tryed that but they are already as close to the drum as can be and still be able to get the drum back on
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Senior User
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From: North Central Montana
To bleed with air I made a flat plate that fits over the top of the master cylinder, drilled a hole in it to pit a male air quick connect in. I glued an old innertube to it to make the seal and clamp it on with a C-clamp.
Don't put in more than a few PSI, I use an old pressure regulator and put in 2-3 PSI.
Once you have pressure on the master cylinder you just open the bleeders one at a time like normal. It's easy to run out of fluid this way so check the reservoir often.
I meant to mention that you would probably need to adjust the rears further so I would follow the above advice first. Sometimes the drums have a lip around the edge which makes them tight to get on but leaves a lot of room once they are installed.
Don't put in more than a few PSI, I use an old pressure regulator and put in 2-3 PSI.
Once you have pressure on the master cylinder you just open the bleeders one at a time like normal. It's easy to run out of fluid this way so check the reservoir often.
I meant to mention that you would probably need to adjust the rears further so I would follow the above advice first. Sometimes the drums have a lip around the edge which makes them tight to get on but leaves a lot of room once they are installed.
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When bleeding, did you start from the wheel farthest from the master cylinder, ie. right rear,then left rear, right front, left front? Is break light on, if it is, the proportioning valve is off center. And finally, maybe someone can confirm this, aren't the rear brakes self-adjusting(only in reverse), after you tighten the adjusting screw as suggested, drive in reverse and hit the brakes a few times.
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From: North Central Montana
Daszanto,
In theory the rear brakes are self adjusting in reverse, in practice the adjusters won't work properly after 20 years unless the adjusters and all springs etc have been replaced.
Replacing the adjusters isn't a big deal and they don't cost much but I think they are overlooked sometimes. Just make sure you get them on the proper sides.
In theory the rear brakes are self adjusting in reverse, in practice the adjusters won't work properly after 20 years unless the adjusters and all springs etc have been replaced.
Replacing the adjusters isn't a big deal and they don't cost much but I think they are overlooked sometimes. Just make sure you get them on the proper sides.
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Freshman User
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thank you for all the replies i did not get a chance to do anything today but will try tomorow. and the break light is not on only when it first starts then it turns off. and the adjusters are new like the rest of the springs and such. they hd to be replaced on the account that the pad was riped off when i was driving it when i first got it and tor alot of the old stuff up. i will try to readjust and re bleed tomowr afternoon. and get back to you after that.
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From: Niceville, FL.
Make sure the proportioning valve is centered. If not, you won't get hydraulic pressure to the brakes (front or rear) it's off-centered to. Happens easily when bleeding. If it's off-centered the brake light on the instrument panel should be on in "Run" (assuming the light and associated switch/wiring is ok).
