Front Axle Leak
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Cross-Country
Joined: Dec 2005
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Front Axle Leak
I have an 03 Excursion 4X4. The front axle is leaking from the passenger side. I noticed when I was changing the oil. The area is wet, but there is no puddle under the truck. I took it to the dealer and they told me that the inner axle seal is leaking and quoted me a price of about $1,000 to repair (including 9 hours labor). This sounds like a lot for an axle seal. I usually do most of the minor repairs to my vehicles, but if it takes the dealer 9 hours to do then it will take me way too long. Does this quote sound right? Is this the type of job a backyard mech can do? Any special tools required? Would it be better to go to a "non-dealer" repair shop to have this done? No mods have been done to the suspension of the X. Thanks in advance for your help.
Stlrrig
03 Excursion Limited 4x4 6.0L PSD
Stlrrig
03 Excursion Limited 4x4 6.0L PSD
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Joined: Aug 2006
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Axle leak
Good luck! I just did mine. Searched and asked questions for three weeks with no reply. Just fixed mine(with some 'Afro' engeneering) The inner seal(2C3Z-3254-AA, $35.79) that's leaking sits on inside of axle tube. To replace it means that you need to pull pumpkin cover and take axle gear set out to get to seals(AS far as putting these gears back you need special tools & gages for correct thrust washer placings). The seals{dust covers} (F81Z-1S175-HCA, $19.92)that is on outside of axle tubes do not have a oil tight seal to axle tube. When you pull hubs apart you also need outer oil seal(F81Z-3254-AA, $31.03)+$10ea for your Ford dealer to fit them to axle,hub o-ring(F81Z-4A322-AA) and one auto hub o-ring kit(4C3Z-1K106-AA). NOW here's my fix. I replaced all above seals AND from Napa got oil seal(16146, $6.99) and installed it between stock 'dust cover' and axle tube. **This seal 16146 is a little too big to fit into axle tube hosing, but with some @!!%*^!! it WILL go in. What this do is when oil leaks past inner oil seal it will just lay in axle tube, instead of leaking to ground, and thus NOT draining fluid from axle, do top-up. You can do a side in a couple of hours with no special tools(other than a 2 5/16" wrench for lower ball joint and circlip pliers). I put synthetic oil in my axle??
2000 X V10 4x4 96k Dana50/229 axle/ 3.73
2000 X V10 4x4 96k Dana50/229 axle/ 3.73
Last edited by Truck Monkey; Dec 11, 2006 at 08:46 PM.
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,720
Likes: 1
Good luck! I just did mine. Searched and asked questions for three weeks with no reply. Just fixed mine(with some 'Afro' engeneering) The inner seal(2C3Z-3254-AA, $35.79) that's leaking sits on inside of axle tube. To replace it means that you need to pull pumpkin cover and take axle gear set out to get to seals(AS far as putting these gears back you need special tools & gages for correct thrust washer placings). The seals{dust covers} (F81Z-1S175-HCA, $19.92)that is on outside of axle tubes do not have a oil tight seal to axle tube. When you pull hubs apart you also need outer oil seal(F81Z-3254-AA, $31.03)+$10ea for your Ford dealer to fit them to axle,hub o-ring(F81Z-4A322-AA) and one auto hub o-ring kit(4C3Z-1K106-AA). NOW here's my fix. I replaced all above seals AND from Napa got oil seal(16146, $6.99) and installed it between stock 'dust cover' and axle tube. **This seal 16146 is a little too big to fit into axle tube hosing, but with some @!!%*^!! it WILL go in. What this do is when oil leaks past inner oil seal it will just lay in axle tube, instead of leaking to ground, and thus NOT draining fluid from axle, do top-up. You can do a side in a couple of hours with no special tools(other than a 2 5/16" wrench for lower ball joint and circlip pliers). I put synthetic oil in my axle??
2000 X V10 4x4 96k Dana50/229 axle/ 3.73
2000 X V10 4x4 96k Dana50/229 axle/ 3.73
Yes I use synthetic in the diff as it is required.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2006
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Could you confirm part #'s?
Also any photos or issues?
Thanks and hope I don't need any of the info as I just replaced my wheel bearings and seals.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,009
Likes: 1
From: Colorado
Just for clarification as I have seen this mistake mentioned several times... you DO NOT need any special tools to remove and reinstall the Differential ring gear as far as the backlash or contact pattern. The Bearing shims sit between the Bearings and the Differential. the bearings are pressed on so they won't fall off! However the Dana 60 housing has preloaded bearings so its a tight fit to get in and out. a porta power (guess this would be a special tool) can be used to spread the housing a few thousandths of an inch so u can get the differential and bearings back in after changing the seals...
Just did mine yesterday... replaced all the seals/o-rings plus new front wheel bearing/hubs... took about 6hrs. But having wrenched in a 4x4 specialty shop I know the secrets
I used a piece of 5/8 threaded bar an a couple of 2"/50mm sockets to push the inner axle seals into place just tighten the nuts away from each other and it will press the seals into place
Just did mine yesterday... replaced all the seals/o-rings plus new front wheel bearing/hubs... took about 6hrs. But having wrenched in a 4x4 specialty shop I know the secrets
I used a piece of 5/8 threaded bar an a couple of 2"/50mm sockets to push the inner axle seals into place just tighten the nuts away from each other and it will press the seals into place
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2009
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From: Mt. Shasta California
You could probably use a come-along with a fulcrum point to spread the bango for spider cage and ring gear removal and I've put hundreds of seals in with minimal tools. (Hammer and sockets usually.) I don't know how the axles are retained but I usually never had to remove the carrier.
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