any one out thier know the best booster pump to use on a 53 ford panel? lots of u-pull it yards in my area. i do not have disks on the truck.any help would be welcome thanks

 

hello:
is the master cyl. still under the floor?
might be time to upgrade to the firewall.
i have a 52, and upgraded to a 70`s style f100
booster and master, and pedal.
hope it helps

 

what year f-100 did you take your pieces from and how well did it mount to your firewall and out to the bottom of your dash. I saw one set up where they did NOT attach the bracket to the dash, but only to the firewall. Brakes are stomped on hard at times, be sure to get the additional support for the pedal by tying the pedal hanging mechanism to the dash as it is in the vehicle you harvest it out of in the wrerking yard.

rodn56efie(No Email Addresses In Posts!)

 

Did you try Vintage Ford in Sacramento? The have bolt in conversion units that fit under the floor board.

 

thanks, going your way, got a booster and hanging petels out of a 74 f-100, also made a backing plate for the fire wall. thanks don

 

I have used the pedals, booster, and master cylinder from a 79-93 Mustang on 3 53-56 trucks. It looks like it was made for these old trucks. It even bolts to the dash near the steering column mount. Nice compact unit!!

 

>I have used the pedals, booster, and master cylinder from a
>79-93 Mustang on 3 53-56 trucks. It looks like it was made
>for these old trucks. It even bolts to the dash near the
>steering column mount. Nice compact unit!!

can you tell me how far to the right of the steering column
the booster/msater cylinder sit on the firewall?.

i'm looking into a similar setup and it's not clear to me
the fender well will clear the power booster when the hood is
raised and lowered.

thanks,
rick

 

>>I have used the pedals, booster, and master cylinder from a
>>79-93 Mustang on 3 53-56 trucks. It looks like it was made
>>for these old trucks. It even bolts to the dash near the
>>steering column mount. Nice compact unit!!
>
>can you tell me how far to the right of the steering column
>the booster/msater cylinder sit on the firewall?.
>
>i'm looking into a similar setup and it's not clear to me
>the fender well will clear the power booster when the hood
>is
>raised and lowered.
>
>thanks,
>rick

actully i didn't make my question very clear. i have a full
tilt hood. therefore the fender well swing forward with
hood when the system is opened. that's clearence is an
issue.

thanks again.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 07-Jan-02 AT 07:32 PM (EST)]OK guys, since we're on this subject, there is a little issue that has been gnawing at me that one of you may be able to shed some light on. I'm building a '51 and I will soon be ready to make some decisions about the brakes. I've used a Gibbons Chysler torsion bar crossmember and will be running the Chrysler discs up front and possibly the Dana rear end and drums from the same Cordoba out back. I'm a little torn on what kind of booster/master cylinder arrangement to use. I realize that the purists like to keep the whole mess under the floor to keep the engine bay clean and uncluttered, but doesn't that cause some serious headaches when you get a booster stacked behind the master cylinder? It seems to me like that would put it back past the cute little access hole in the floorpan and back under the seat. How do you get to it to check and service it then? Not to mention the fact that it would make things interesting when you try to put in carpet. I'm not exactly sure that I've ever seen an underhood setup before. Is this a tight installation? I haven't got far enough to actually go out and check to see how the pedals, mounts, and booster/master cylinder out of the Chysler will fit, but this seems to be the most logical course of action from a maintenance standpoint. This truck will see some serious mileage if I have anything to do with it! I also noticed the late 60's - early 70's truck and Mustang booster mentioned. Is this a favorite due to it's small diameter and if so is that because of a clearance issue under the hood? Any light you can shed on this is much appreciated. I'm still putting the front suspension together at the moment, but I'd like to have a rough idea how I want to do this before I try to put the cab back on. Thanks a bunch!

 

What size engine are you going to use? It might make a little difference in clearances. I am also using the Gibbon set up on my 49 and it sounds like you are a little farther in your project than I am. I was hoping I might could hang on to your coat tails for a little bit. Keep us informed as to how you're coming along.

Huggy Bear

 

HI you guy's : glad your on this subject. I'm working on a 53 with 351w and this maybe an upgrade I would like to consider.
Go ahead and knock it and kick it ,work out the bug's and be sure to keep everything up to date. I'll try to print this out & use it for a guide. Will this come with a warrantee ???
Just kidding ,but I am trying to learn.
Maybe if somebody was close by I may come by w/ TRUCBUF and get some first hand pointer's Caddy 53 chuck CEnterburg oh
Thanks I enjoy this site.

 

the booster will go above the steering column with the 79-93 Mustang. A streetrod buddy of mine uses the pedals and booster from an Escort. He doesn't have as much room to spare under the hood of a 32 Ford as we do with our trucks.
I am not sure if this setup will clear the inner fender of a tilt frontend.

 

>the booster will go above the steering column with the 79-93
>Mustang. A streetrod buddy of mine uses the pedals and
>booster from an Escort. He doesn't have as much room to
>spare under the hood of a 32 Ford as we do with our trucks.
> I am not sure if this setup will clear the inner fender
>of a tilt frontend.

indeed it will. i made a mockup of the booster and the mc and taped it to the firewall. it cleared with plenty of space, well not plenty but enough. in messing around the salvage yard i noticed different boosters and different mcs. some of the master cylinders looked identical to the early 70's master cylinders which i know are 1" bores but the other with the plastic reservoir looked to be smaller, i.e. 15/16 or 7/8 bore. does anyone know what size the master cylinder bore is in these with the plastice reservoir?

 

I have seen some of these adapter kits for sale from some of the mail-order parts suppiers, but I don'tthink I have seen one yet that goes on the firewall, they all seem to be for under the floor. I have read that if you are doing it under the floor, to get the plastic reservoir kind, becasue they are lower profile and allow easier filling. Also, I would think that if you planned ahead and glued velcro to both the underside of the carpet and the truck floor, lifting the carpet to check the brake fluid would be simple enough. I would certainly like to hear more about specifically which master cylinders were used, and how you make your own adapter bracket - do you have to drill more holes in the frame,or weld on it, etc. Also what the adapter was made of, dimensions, thickness, etc. Can a template or pattern be found online or purchased anywhere? There seems to be an endless number of things to spend our "truck money" on, so maybe we can help each other keep this one's cost down.
-G.B.

 

>I have seen some of these adapter kits for sale from some of
>the mail-order parts suppiers, but I don'tthink I have seen
>one yet that goes on the firewall, they all seem to be for
>under the floor. I have read that if you are doing it under
>the floor, to get the plastic reservoir kind, becasue they
>are lower profile and allow easier filling. Also, I would
>think that if you planned ahead and glued velcro to both the
>underside of the carpet and the truck floor, lifting the
>carpet to check the brake fluid would be simple enough. I
>would certainly like to hear more about specifically which
>master cylinders were used, and how you make your own
>adapter bracket - do you have to drill more holes in the
>frame,or weld on it, etc. Also what the adapter was made
>of, dimensions, thickness, etc. Can a template or pattern be
>found online or purchased anywhere? There seems to be an
>endless number of things to spend our "truck money" on, so
>maybe we can help each other keep this one's cost down.
>-G.B.

the most common master cylinder i see in use is the late 60s early 70's mustang dual power master cylinder. it has a 1" bore and is really cheap. i used ECI frond disc brake system and they told me NOT to use anything less than a 1" bore because you would not get enough juice to the front disc if you did. and that goes with everything else i've read.

a friend of mine made me an adapter bracket that mounts where the original master cylinder mounts using the same holes and lets you convert to above mentioned dual master (no booster). it uses the original brake pedal assembly. however the plunger rod need to be moved because the position of the new master center bore is about 3/4" off from the original, but this trivial. this set up was model after some company's adapter, but i don't know which one. however, i can't use this system because of the cutom headers my truck has. these headers put the brake lines coming out of the master right on the pipes. so i have decided to go with a firewall mount, which i am currently working on.

in any event i'm have an adapter bracket sitting around if anyone is interested.

rick