I'm only 18 and sick of putting junkyard motors in my 1971 f100 2wd but don't have the cash to build an extreme 390 right now. I work at the local engine machine shop but was curious if anyone had used this set up or one similar and had good results.And I was going to get the rv cam with headers and dual exhaust http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/390-FE-Ford-1964-65-Engine-Rebuild-kit-U-S-made_W0QQitemZ320058381069QQihZ011QQcategoryZ33620 QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

Kit looks like good quality parts. As for the cam there are several good threads on cams on this forum. The general consensus is that you can do better than the RV cam for not much more money.
Also check some threads posted by RedmanBob regarding porting the stock heads. Be sure to take a look at the photos tool. If you're in an engine shop maybe you can use some tools after hours. The stock heads apparently respond quite well to a mild porting and matching.
As for the rebuild kit you'll need to know the particulars on the pistons. Deck height, compression ratio and such. That will help you pick out a cam. You'll also need to know in advance what kind of carb. 2bbl vs. 4 bbl. Again search the FE forum to find some really good threads. I have been following a number of threads posted by RedmanBob about his budget rebuild of an old 352. His truck is up and running now and he and others have been really generous about posting stuff on the FE forum.

Good Luck

 

Well responed to the post without a link first ..my bad. As for doing it cheap ? probably not going to happen. Doing it fairly cheap..quite possible. Need patience. First tear into the engine and mic everything. You may not need that entire kit. And the $ for a set of uneeded pistons will go a long way. I got the kit .030 pistons (dont ask) had a fresh oil pump and timing set so dropped those and got 8 new exhaust valves and the RV cam. My advice is if you need the build done a better cam can come later. If you want a ***** out engine...have the time and patience, slow down save up and plan, plan, plan... there is a wealth of knowledge on here and tons of controversy LOL... but thats what makes it great. As for porting the heads..best 10-20 hrs you'll ever spend. Dont do it until after they are magnafluxed and before the seats are worked on. Do go read as many posts as you can find on it before starting.

My old truck is no road demon just a tow jenny but she is back on the road and frankly sporting a decent set a knads for 40 yr old mule. Basically a stock build .030 over added RV Cam, ported the heads one saturday, a stock 4bbl intake from pickNpull, 4160 Holley from Hypoid(thanks brother), still have the stock logs for exhaust but managed to snag some headers for it a few weeks ago just need to save up for new pipe....

there is a definate difference in performance.

A last bit of advice since it doesnt usually get hit on it seems, either get a new dizzy or dissasemble thoroughly clean, lube and reassemble your old one. Why ? you just put an engine together that is crudless and no matter how clean the outside of the dizzy is the shaft section holds enough old crap to make a real mess. Not to mention how it will affect trying to dial things in if working at less than optimum. "get a new/reman one" clean and keep the old one as backup. Get ready there more coming I'm sure..it's early LOL

 

Okay, I saw your other thread and it seems appropiate to post on this thread,
>> https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...build-kit.html >>

Here is the same kit http://www.performance-auto-parts.com/engine-rebuild-kits/engine-rebuild-kits-ford.php
390cu, year 61/76, MK-F390, $441.60
I really don't like shopping for new parts on EBAY because you can't get a good warranty on new parts. The one listed on ebay is going for $470.00 plus with shipping.

I used the Fel pro gaskets, bearings, and timing chain listed.
I used the 343941 crane cam and the Keith Black piston bore 30 over, because I needed a cam with some torque and had a good rpm from 1500 to 5500 rpms range. I have done some hauling and some four wheeling and I really like the torque and hp. I can spin the tires when the truck is rolling forward with ease.

What type of engine are you planning on building: towing, street, or racing?

 

I have no complaints after dealing with fastengine/maddog/engine_rebuilders_wholesale. They were helpful, worked with me, had it all to me promptly. The only thing that did come up they resolved in a very timely manner. The box of pistons drop shipped from Fed Mogul which fastengine had no way of QC'ing had a blemished piston. http://i5.tinypic.com/27yz4wh.jpg I brought it to their attention and it was taken care of immediately. So I can say for sure they are ok folks. Dealt with Harris Crowley..he took care of business like a pro. just my 2coppers

 

you said you worked at the local engine/machine shop right. why dont you go through EPWI ( engine and performance warehouse inc). they are pretty cheap. see i have worked in a machine shop for quite some time now. and that who im going through for my 428. and its only gonna cost me 355 bucks for a master kit. with the cam deleted of course.add another 63 for the cam. cause you shouldnt have to pay for machine work. unless your boss is a ( bad word). and oversize stuff comes at no extra cost in those kit and those are high quality kits i hve used them on every engine i have ever built. just my 2 cents. see i am going all out on this build. according to desk top dyno i should be getting around 465 hp @ 5500 rpm and 486 ft lbs @ 4500. with a holley street dominator intake that i traded a 460 for and a set of c3ae heads with the large ports and closed chambers. and this build is only gonna cost me around a 100 bucks total. just my 2 cents.

 

Redmanbob, it is good to know that one can still buy from Ebay and still get the quality service. I personally don't have penpal or an Ebay account.

7FORD2, your looking at $355, plus $63, minus a 460 engine for the C3AE heads and probably going with the stainless steel valves, plus a holley street dominator and intake, plus time and grinder to porting and polishing the heads. This adds up to more than $100 dollars. Engine rebuilding ain't cheap.

HighBoyGuy, one thing for sure your looking at roughly $500 in parts. If you go with a four barrel intake and carburator, add about another $500 to $700 dollars. If you have access to the machining tools is great, but as mentioned, make sure you check all specification and tolerances for your 390 FE engine, as this is important.

 

I have already honed the block but my pistons were junk and i also bought a factory $ barrel intake what is the best cam to run?

 

i've got a 361 block with side oiler and provision for cross bolt and support webbing in block fortunately the side oiler was machined and functional some were just cast and never machined i think it came out of waterpump unit but block was in perfect shape anyway i'mrunning the old 427 lr intake and heads with the exhaust cross over blocked off and 600 double pumper mallory dual point with built c6 and 268h comp cams and may i say steel tube headers suck on any big block try to find a set of the old castiron shortties or full length headers alot better you can change the starter without removing the header and unhooking the mounts and jacking up the engine thats what i did and some body should be repopping these things they seem to flow better than the steel tube things availible today but anyway she get's arround 7mpg in town and 15-16 highway if i can keep from passing chevy's oh she's a 2wd with locker 3:73 c6, ps, pb now disc's on front and 31/10.50-15
tire's