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I've tried to read some of the posts on hard starting, but my three year old is thinking thats not going to happen and is making it a little difficult right now (daddy daddy daddy daddy) gotta love him though. So I figured I would just throw out the question with the symptoms.
95 PSD c/c 4x4 auto, 40* and below temps, truck will not fire. It will want to start for a split second then just turn over. There will be white smoke when it does. I have tried to cycle the GP's, but nothing happends other then a split second fire and then white smoke again. I'll have to plug in the block heater for about thirty minutes, then it will fire and loope (splg?) for a few seconds then clean out.
With having to plug the heater in...does this seem to be more of a GP issue? or could it be a GPR issue?
One more quick question... Is it okay to leave the block heater plugged in all night?
My initial guess would be that if it won't start when below 40F, it would be either multiple gp's or the relay. The resistance check of the gp's works well, once you figure out which pins to measure from on the connector on your valve cover gasket. There is also a way to check to make sure that you do indeed have voltage coming out of your relay to confirm it is working. It's pretty obvious to determine which is the output if you can work with a meter and follow the wiring.
I agree, check your GPR first. Then if it's good, ohm out your glow plugs, the outer two pins in the valve cover connector are for the glow plugs and the center pin is common (ground).
I agree GPR also to answer your block heater question, it is preferred to leave the block heater plugged in according to the manual 8-12 hours for effective heating. It can be left plugged in indefinitely but once the pickup is cold it takes 8-12 hours to heat it as thouroughly as if you had plugged it in when you shut the truck off after arriving home. Of course less than 8 hours the truck will be warmer than if you had not plugged it in, just not as warm as it could be.
I think the GPR checks out alright, it shuts off at about 100 seconds. Engine was cold and outside temp was 20*, also tried jumping the two posts for about 15 - 20 sec. and there was no differance. looks like I'll have to test the GP's.
Couple questions:
Do I have to disconnect the connectors to test them?
what Ohm should they read?
What is the correct procedure?
Disconnect your valve cover connectors. There are five pins inside, 1-2-3-4-5. Pins # 1 & # 5 are for the glow plugs. Pin # 3 is common (ground). Ohm from one of the glow plug pins to an engine ground and then to the common pin. Ohms should be 3 - 5 ohms, (7 max). If the engine ground and common pin ohms have a large variance, this could mean that the UVC (Under Valve Cover) wiring has problems. Hope this helps.
a guess here....if you get that one hit, then white smoke, makes me thing one or more of your GP's are shorting out as soon as they get current.
So you get one or two cylinders to fire.
By that time the GP relay is shut down, and your just pumping fuel throug the system.
When the GP's were good, my 88 IDI would fire off on one or two cycles of the GP's when the Temp was -10. Plugging it in all night was the best answer though.
However, if you have one of those 'soft plug' heaters you might be in trouble leaving it plugged in all night long. The one in my Dodge kept burning out in the middle of the winter.
I went to an in-line (percolater) heater which worked fine.