A little scared......
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Senior User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 112
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A little scared......
I have a 2001 F-350 4x4 with the 6.8 V-10 with 48,000 miles. I want to change plugs in the beast however I am a little apprehensive based on the plug popping/ stripping issues I have read about on this forum. ( GREAT forum by the way). I want to change the plugs for peace of mind even though it is running great. What is the plug of choice for these motors. I have used Motorcraft and Bosch in my other fords with great service from both. And for the worst case scenario, can the thread inserts be installed in the heads while the engine is still in the vehicle?
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,268
Likes: 8
From: central Louisiana
motorcraft or auto-lites. there the same company, just different packaging! i saved alittle buy going to Wal-Mart and getting some Auto-Lite 103 Double Platinum's!
get you a in/lbs, 1/4" or 3/8" drive torque wrench, might need a couple pry bars or something to hold a couple lines back, and a couple choices of extension. might want some anti-sieze, an air blower with a small extension to blow all the debris from aboud the plug.
GAP: .053-.055
Torque: 163-168 in/lbs
not sure about the inserts i didn't use them on this change. probably should have for security reasons!
get you a in/lbs, 1/4" or 3/8" drive torque wrench, might need a couple pry bars or something to hold a couple lines back, and a couple choices of extension. might want some anti-sieze, an air blower with a small extension to blow all the debris from aboud the plug.
GAP: .053-.055
Torque: 163-168 in/lbs
not sure about the inserts i didn't use them on this change. probably should have for security reasons!
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 268
Likes: 0
From: OZ
I changed mine a 55,000, plugs and boots, and it made a difference.
Used OEM plugs.
Do a search and you will find some nice pictures and notes about the change. Took me 3 hours. Next time it will take about 1.5.
I will check/re-torque them this spring.
Used OEM plugs.
Do a search and you will find some nice pictures and notes about the change. Took me 3 hours. Next time it will take about 1.5.
I will check/re-torque them this spring.
Junior User
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
Paul, the threaded inserts [like Helicoils] require some drilling/tapping of the spark plug hole before they're "inserted". This activity generates all kinds of metal chips/turnings & excess lubricant when tapping the new threads, most of which will find its way into the engine cylinder. Consequently, it's better to have the head removed when doing this procedure.
It would be better for you to just take your time, clean out around each spark plug recess with solvent, blow clean with compressed air, then break each plug free with a firm tug on the wrench. If you do it with a cold engine & use the right tools the first time, the procedure is easy. And forget using the anti-seize; you're just as likely to cause new plug fouling later on from its oozing into the cylinder.
After all, it's not rocket science - just look at some of the bozo's who do this for a living....
It would be better for you to just take your time, clean out around each spark plug recess with solvent, blow clean with compressed air, then break each plug free with a firm tug on the wrench. If you do it with a cold engine & use the right tools the first time, the procedure is easy. And forget using the anti-seize; you're just as likely to cause new plug fouling later on from its oozing into the cylinder.
After all, it's not rocket science - just look at some of the bozo's who do this for a living....
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,059
Likes: 426
From: Too close to Houston
Use the anti-seize! Just enough to cover the threads. It's not going to be oozing anywhere and it will help you get the plugs out next time without bringing the aluminum out too.
You won't be able to use the torque wrench on all the plugs, but once you've torqued 1 or 2 you should have a feel for how tight they need to be.
You won't be able to use the torque wrench on all the plugs, but once you've torqued 1 or 2 you should have a feel for how tight they need to be.
Senior User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 317
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From: Versailles, KY
A) Should you use PB Blaster (or other penetrating oil) on the plugs to free them from the aluminium threads prior to removal? It would seem to me this would be a good idea.
B) What about those Iridium plugs by Denso? They have an ad on this site. They look quite impressive on their website. Apparently, they are sold at Auto Zone.
B) What about those Iridium plugs by Denso? They have an ad on this site. They look quite impressive on their website. Apparently, they are sold at Auto Zone.
Guest
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 7,988
Likes: 55
From: north west new jersey
stay with what works best, as to denso's my wifes jeep had them as oem, 25k worn to the porclen ,it now has autolights and runs great,
same with my 05 v10 put in autolights same as motorcraft,
pb blaster no! as per one of the super moderators who is a ford tech. there is a tsb for the 5.4 on changing plugs,warm engine only when changeing them.it's another thread over the last few days,
same with my 05 v10 put in autolights same as motorcraft,
pb blaster no! as per one of the super moderators who is a ford tech. there is a tsb for the 5.4 on changing plugs,warm engine only when changeing them.it's another thread over the last few days,
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Senior User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 317
Likes: 0
From: Versailles, KY
I have seen many threads that say only change plugs on a COLD engine. Change plugs when engine is warm or cold?
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,268
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From: central Louisiana
Originally Posted by Sport45
Use the anti-seize! Just enough to cover the threads. It's not going to be oozing anywhere and it will help you get the plugs out next time without bringing the aluminum out too.
You won't be able to use the torque wrench on all the plugs, but once you've torqued 1 or 2 you should have a feel for how tight they need to be.
You won't be able to use the torque wrench on all the plugs, but once you've torqued 1 or 2 you should have a feel for how tight they need to be.
just work slow, don't get agrivated, and find the right combo that fits YOU! some combonations don't work for every body the same!
good luck, and let us know how it goes
Guest
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 7,988
Likes: 55
From: north west new jersey
heres the post from our super mod racerguy from this week about changing the plugs in a 3 valve alloy head
""And as an added bonus they also break off in the heads while trying to remove them
So far TSB 06-15-2 says it's just the 5.4L 3V that has the problem though.
Ford even came up with special tools to remove the broken plugs.
The TSB says the engine must be warm before trying to remove them. Loosen the plugs 1/8-1/4 turn and then spray penetrating oil into the hole and let it soak for 5-10 minutes before removing the plug completely."""
__________________
""And as an added bonus they also break off in the heads while trying to remove them
So far TSB 06-15-2 says it's just the 5.4L 3V that has the problem though.
Ford even came up with special tools to remove the broken plugs.
The TSB says the engine must be warm before trying to remove them. Loosen the plugs 1/8-1/4 turn and then spray penetrating oil into the hole and let it soak for 5-10 minutes before removing the plug completely."""
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 355
Likes: 4
From: Central Pennsylvania
Ya know, for all the problems they could have prevented from the start, the engineers should have designed the 4.6/5.4/6.8 engines with iron/steel inserts for the spark plugs to screw into from the get go. That would have saved alot of headache and hesitation.
TG
TG
