hello,
i have a '57 ford with a 14 foot flat bed. i got a catalog from Mar-K truck parts and they do have the bed wood but they only sell wood up to 9 feet long. could i just go to a lumber yard and get 14 foot stock and cut the groove on the one edge? would this work or is there somewhere that sells the longer wood for the flat beds? anything you can tell me will be appreciated.

thanks,

57_F600

Keep 'Em Crankin'

 

You could use dimensional lumber that available up to 20-24 foot lengths at the local Home Depot or even use pressure treated, but I would look to see if there's any local sawmills in your area. They could mill you some hardwood of some type and save you a few bucks. I've found them listed right in the yellow pages.

 

hello,
i will try the saw mill right down the road. i never thought to talk to them. that way i could get a native bed for it. that would be a stronger bed. would they put the groove on the edge or not?

thanks,

57_F600

Keep'Em Crankin'

 

You'd have to check with them. It depends on how big of a operation it is. If they can't, A good cabinet shop could do it for you.

 

As for the grooves, I bet you've got a neighbor who's dying to use his brand new Christmas router for something.He can match up the correct bit on one of your old boards.

 

most any Home Depot should be able to order you the tounge and groove ironwood in 14 ft lengths. all other ideas good also

 

After extensive research (including life-cost analysis) for my own project, I've determined that the best wood to use is IPE (pronounced E-PAY). Available any way you want it, strong, looks fantastic, reasonable. You don't want to do this job every 4 years, this stuff will outlive you. It is commonly used as decking and flooring in rail boxcars. Austin Hardwoods is one vender.

Good Luck!

Steve Tyminski

 

G. L. Perry
Huntington, IN 46750

I've done a few beds with wood. One was not treated and only lasted 3 or 4 years and got soft. I even painted it on all sides before install. My newer 94 truck, I just built a bed for it and am using regualr treated 2 x 6 tongue and groove on it. Problem with treated is the wood shrinks and you have gaps. I have mounted mine temporary with few bolts and will remove in spring, hopefully after it has shrunk and paint it all over on every edge and re-install with new mount points and lots more bolts. Should be easy to find most yards. I have also use wider random width like 2 x 8, 10 or 12's and use my dado blade on a table saw to cut a rabbet on edges that allowed them to overlap and if shrinking happens still can keep dirt or sand from falling thru the cracks, even with small gaps on top. Most guys say to use oak or native rough cut wood from mills, but I didn't have the money for that. It would be better wood, I'm sure. Shrinkage may stillbe problem, and I'm sure it's not tongue and groove and harder to get good "seam" on rough wood. Or you could re-cut for fresh edge on a table saw maybe. My next bed is gonna get the x-over's raised up and have diamond plate used on it. Found a good cheaper steel source by me for that, just harder to handle is all.

 

You can cover the grooves with steel slats. Most Ford flatbeds and early pickup beds had these. You put them right over the seams. They can be laid on top or recessed slightly. Some of the aftermarket suppliers have them in different lengths. You use carriage bolts to hold them down. They make them in reg. steel or stainless or chrome plated.

 

 

just opened up my midwest early ford catalog and found they list 10 foot bed strips in plain steel $10.00 each or stainless for $15.00.
1-800-543-5035.