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I want to lift my 1988 f150 about 5'' do i need to change anything in the front or rear to go that high. Will the driveshaft be long enough and in the front do i need to drop the radius arms and pitman arm. The truck is a 2wd
I agree with these: coils, brakelines radius arm drops and a pitman arm, but other than that, you either need to drop the I beams all together, or heat them up and bend them to the propper angle.
For any lift up to 6", you usually don't need a longer driveshaft.
well, drop brackets would be bolt on, and since it's a 2wd I can bet it wont be beat on so you wont have to worry about them. Bending the beams takes stuff other than hand tools, and Ford even casts right into the beams "do not bend heat drill or weld" or somthing like that right on the beams.
Wow, Prices have changed alot since I was looking at lifting my 2wd. I found the same kit I was looking for, and it is about $700. It is only a 3" lift, and when I first looked at it a few years ago it was $1,300.
mbb, the 2wd and 4wd's are the same lift wise. Takes the same parts, pivot drop brackets, coils, brakelines radius arm drops and a pitman arm.
Originally Posted by MBBFord
I agree with these: coils, brakelines radius arm drops and a pitman arm, but other than that, you either need to drop the I beams all together, or heat them up and bend them to the propper angle.
definately use a drop pitman arm, it will drop all your steering linkage. Theres no way to not use one with 6" of lift. The tie rods are all your steering linkage consists of.
Yeah, there is one guy in here that has a nice 66-72 F100 with a 6" lift, and a custom drop for the i beams.
If the search function worked, I'd find his link he had on it, and it turned out great for him, and it's all the same for the I beams no matter what year(basically)
a buddy of mine made some to go under a 7.3L diesel in an F250. They worked great, beefier than aftermarket. He took some square tube, cut it to length, drilled holes to run a bolt through the old pivot holes and the new drop piece, cut up some flat bar, drilled the new pivot holes and welded them on. (used a couple plug welds too)
Measure the inside face to the inside face of the bracket, get some square tube that will fit snug in there. The flat bar with the new pivot holes is welded to the outside of the square stock to create the new opening for the axle pivot. Gusset at will, we didnt use any and they held up to an airborn diesel.
Heres a pic I made a while ago to send to another user, disregard the 2.5" measurement, it was how much he wanted to lift his truck. The top bolt hole is used with the origional pivot hole in the stock bracket. The darker lines on the bottom show the flat bar. Above the top bolt hole you want as much material as you can to weld to the stock bracket.
definately use a drop pitman arm, it will drop all your steering linkage. Theres no way to not use one with 6" of lift. The tie rods are all your steering linkage consists of.
Yep, you are correct! I did not read the part that the truck is 2WD.