I have a truck that all of the clear coat is coming off witch has left me with a bad taste is my mouth about clear coat and do not want to go back with it. So what are my options to go with that will spray good with a good gloss finish? I have read that acrylic enamel does this but how many coats does it requier? I am painting a work truck so I am not looking for a high dlloar paint job but do not want to sacrifice the quality of the job so thats why I am doing it myself. I don`t know much ahout paint so I am relieing on some outside help with this. Thanks for any advice.

 

if all the clearcoat is lifting you will have to sand until you get it off. Or at least until you get to an area where it seems well fused to the paint. after all the transition areas(where clearcoat quit peeling) have been smoothed, if any other areas are still shiny you will need to scuff them so the new paint will adhere properly, otherwise you will have the same problem with the new paint.

I would suggest a single stage paint such as NASON(Du Pont product) Oreilly sells it here, paint stores that sell Du Pont should be able to get it also. I am painting a truck with NASON and it only cost $50 for a gallon of paint with the catalyst and reducer.

 

Thanks, anyone else?

 

What is the differance in single stage and other paints?

 

Single stage paint does not have a clear coat. The most common reason for clear coat failure is due to not using wax. I don't mean the car wash with wax beads in it, I mean actual wax in a bottle/can. I really recommend giving a vehicle a good wax every 3 - 4 months, even if you just use Turtle Wax.

Clear coat is actually a good thing to have over paint, it offers a lot of protection to it. Especially with things such as light scratches and from the elements. Wax actually provides another barrier of protection to not only the paint but also to the clear coat. The clear coat can only take so much of the elements and will finally begin to break down and it can be prevented with a good coat of wax.

Unfortunitly there is no cure outside of a new paint job for clear coat failure, I really wish there was. If you only have a spot or two of clear coat failure I would recommend having it sanded down and shot rather then get an entire new paint job. Just get a good polish and wax for the rest of the vehicle if you can go that route.

- Chris

 

Using silicone wax will strip off the clearcoat. Never spray silicone on or near two stage paint.

I recommend a polymer finish on clearcoat because carnuba waxes won't last through one car wash, and tends to melt on hot days. Dish soap will strip off carnuba also. Polymers (Meguiars NXT is what I use) last 3 to 6 months depending on weather conditions. Use a clay bar first...otherwise you are wasting your time.

Our Gov't has specified the use of two stage paint on all new vehicles made in the US, because it's environmentally friendly. But clear coat paint the way it's applied can cause fish eyes and orange peel.

Compare a Japanese import paint job with a clearcoated one from the US...Orange peel on the imported vehicle will be about 80% less.

btw..in CA the only paint now allowed for any repaint is two stage paint. Outlawed are nitrocellulose lacquers, acrylics, duco enamel, Imron. It's either two stage or head east.

 

Be careful not to confuse Silicon and Silicone. Silicon is an ingedient that is used in some paint cleaners to remove tar and fine scratches, it's not used in actual car wax.

Dish soap is very harmful to your paints finish, I would never recommend using it. Dish soaps have a high alkalinity and will cause your cars finish to dull. By the way, that dish soap will take off that NXT your using.

You do not have to use a clay bar everytime you wax your vehicle. Now if you want a show room finish the best way to tell if you need to clay it is simple. Spray some quick detailer on the paint surface, with a microfiber towel wipe the sprayed panel and if it's smooth your fine. If your paint feels rough while doing this test then it is time to clay the vehicles paint.

Orange Peel has nothing to do with clear coating a vehicle. Orange Peel is caused by the painting process used by all major car manufacturers. As the paint dries the volatile chemicals in it evaporate causing the molecules to rearrange themselves. In this process the size and shape of this pattern is determined by the type of paint, temperture, humidity, spray gun speed etc. etc. Orange Peel is also prevelent on many imported cars, you see it on almost all Toyota's, Scions, Honda's and Nissan's.

Carnuba wax is not removed after just one car wash, nor have I ever heard of it melting. One of the best ways to see if it's time to put a new coat of wax on your car is to look for the water to bead up. If it rains or you wash your car and the water that is on the paint is beaded up then you have a good coat of wax on it. If the water does not bead but more or less puddles then it's time to put on a coat of wax.

My favorite application for detailing my truck is to put on two coats of Meguiars NXT and wait 24 hours for the wax to set up. Always give a synthetic wax a 24 hours waiting period to set up before applying a top coat. This will allow for a much better finish. After waiting for the wax to set up I apply two coats of a carnuba wax, either Meguiars #26 or Mothers California Gold. This gives my truck a fantastic shine and a lot of depth in the finish.

Then the next time you wash your truck, follow it up with a good Spray/Quick Wax. It will give your truck that just shined look, just like the day you waxed it. Also, don't be fooled by some of the lesser brands. There is not a spray wax or a car wash with wax beads that replaces actual car wax.

- Chris

 

Interesting...good post.

Here, the fallout is terrible...and the qwik detailers will only remove a bit of it.

My 2006 screw has been washed twice since last Xmas, when I bought it. I use a CA duster daily..it's a garage queen with 3300 miles on it.

My wife's 2005 Murano has far better paint than my truck has.

Fish eyes, orange peel...whatever you wish to call it...is prevelant in two stage paint. Color sanding will remove it, but I'm not about to sand a thin finish. It's also hard (for me anyway) to tell whether it's in the clear or color coat.

Ford didn't offer a pure carnuba wax before 1991, the old wax (B4AZ-19534-A) had silicone in it....as did many car waxes once.

All my cars are waxed on a regular basis...I still have the same Sioux buffer I got in 1957...about the same time I started detailing cars.

But I learned a thing or two from your post...thanks.

 

Out here the new car dealers have a service that comes by and sprays a solution on the cars....it's supposed to dry without spots. If it's a hot day, whatever is in that solution dries on the paint...and it's a biitch to get it off.

I had to use ScratchX to remove whatever it is from the hood of my truck...nothing else worked.

 

I would like to here more about herothc2003 original question as to what paint to use as I have the same issue with my truck and no amount of waxing is going to cure this problem .

 

Hey guys, I missed my v8 so I wasn't on all cylinders when I was thinking last night. Best advise is to grab the phone book and look in the automotive section, check and see if there is an automotive paint supplier. You need a PBE (Automotive Paint & Body Equipment) store, which can supply you with knowledge and the best paint products for your application. This is where the painting places purchase their products, so you should get a much better deal then what the body shop will want for materials. You can also go to google, search for "PBE store;" if you just do PBE you'll get all kinds of odds and ends that have nothing to do with painting.

At this store you can also purchase products such as abrasives, polishes and paint cleaners for the newly shot paint. You would be looking for what's called "body shop safe" products. Meguiars has an entire line of these products in their Professional grade materials. Mothers and a few other companies also put out body shop safe products, they can all be found at those PBE shops. It's always said not to wax for x amount of time once you get a new paint job. This rule goes for a lot more then just simple wax, it goes for all kinds of products you use on your cars paint. So defenitly see what you can find.

One last thing, if you go to the shop and the guy or gal might try to talk you into a rotary buffer. Rotary buffers are fantastic machines, they look a lot like a grinder that you'd buy at your local hardware store. If used properly and with the correct products they can get out all kinds of paint problems. Unless you have some big urge to dive into the detailing industry I would not recommend it. It takes a lot of practice to be able to learn how to properly use a rotary. Usually it's recommended to purchase a hood from the junk yard to practice on before you get near your cars paint. If you do need to get some of those body shop safe products to take care of your paint and want to get out some defects, the best product on the market is a dual action polisher by Porter Cable. It's delicate enough for a beginner to use without tons of practice and does a fantastic job at really working the product in to get body shop quality to your new and old paint job.

Best advise is to avoid anything a dealership has to offer as it pertains to the paint on your car. Usually if they want you to buy into a special product or even a special car wash it's a cheap gimic to steal(ership) even more money from you.

As I said before though, don't get a bad taste in your mouth from having clear coat failure in the past. Just every once in a while when you get the chance, toss on a coat of wax.

Oh and didn't mean to hijack the thread

 

A Nason kit will cost you more than $50 for a gallon kit & that is probably what you will need. Depending on color, more like $100.

Nason is not a bad product for a work truck and a economy budget single stage paint job. Have done many trucks with it & you can get a nice gloss from it.

 

My reference to having a service that dealers use to wash their new cars has nothing to do with the rip-off 'paint protection' garbage.

The days of having lot boys keeping the line of new cars clean is a thing of the past here. The dealer hires a guy to come by with a truck and spray a water/solution on the new and used cars...some sort of a dry car wash.

I avoid any paint/upholstery protection stuff, read the entire contract carefully, and refuse to pay a Doc Fee, which here can range from $35.00 to over 2 grand!

 

I have a gallon of white Acrylic enamel NAPA,Martin something brand that was able to come across today. I have a few places that I need to sand down to the metal and prime. Can I get away with using rattle can primer as long as I sand it like needs to be?