shifter trouble
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 25
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shifter trouble
Today Iwas driving my 1996 ranger auto on the column when I parked it and then went to go again it will not come out of park key works unhooked cable at trany, trany is fine pushed on brake pedal still wont come out of park any ideas??? also I went to take plastic housing of of column but cannot figure out what kind of fasteners it uses cannot see up in the holes real good anyone know what tool is needed thanks I can get a column from wrecking yard but if can fix mine I prefer that
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,651
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From: Maine
I don't own an auto, so I'm not real familiar with this system, but I believe there is an electronic solenoid that locks the gearshift in park unless the ignition is switched on, and the brake pedal depressed.
I don't know where it gets its brake signal from, but just for kicks, see if your brake lights work, in case it's the same switch.
Someone on here with an automatic must have a better idea of how these work than I do...
I don't know where it gets its brake signal from, but just for kicks, see if your brake lights work, in case it's the same switch.
Someone on here with an automatic must have a better idea of how these work than I do...
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 25
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shifter trouble
thank you very much for your response I went out and checked the brake lights sure enough the were out replaced the fuse and sweet it shifts thank you very much I'm one happy camper!!! one question Iwas towing my trailer today do you guys think a 15amp fuse is too small for the lights on truck and trailerplus this solinoid???
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 8,462
Likes: 4
From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
I wouldn't think it should overload it unless something is wrong, I've never blown a fuse pulling a trailer. What kind of trailer is it? Most trailers have two simple rear lights, I guess if the lights were on, brakes on, and hazard lights on, perhaps it could overload the circuit, but under no regular circumstances should it, especially considering those are all on seperate fuses.
For now, don't worry about it, but if it blows again, start looking for problems.
For now, don't worry about it, but if it blows again, start looking for problems.
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 759
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From: Ventura ,ca. (near L.A.)
Theres an overide for this so you can get it out of park if that switch fails or the battery is dead. You turn the igniton lock till it barely clicks, just enough so that the wheel is unlocked. If you turn it all the way to the run positon it wont work. With the igniton to the unlock position you can pull the shifter out of park without touching the brake pedal. Put it in neutral the start it up and then shift to whatever gear you need, drive or reverse. Once you put it back in park it will be stuck again and you will have to do the same proceedure, unless you fix the problem.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,980
Likes: 2
From: central ohio
you could also clip the wire going to that solenoid, ive done it to the wife's taurus, dads '96 bronco & '94 f250 and a pontiac montana i no longer own. i just like being able to drop it in drive and go, it was probly some safty thing required by the d.o.t. due to too many kids being left unattended in running cars. as to the fuse blowing, sometimes they just go, like a light bulb filament will work for years then just go as long as the trailer iswired right, it souldnt be causing the problem. ive had more problems with the converter boxes for trailer wiring than anything else lately, that little aftermarket box that you use to go from seperate brake & turn signal bulbs on the truck to the same bulb for turn and brake on the trailer. i havent been blowing fuses, just only have tail and brake lamps on trailer, no signal lights. need another china-built converter box from china-mart i guess. or get a diagram and build my own, probly uses diodes. (from mexico) as always, make sure your grounds are good, thats got to be the leading cause of electrical problems expecailly for those of us here up north in the snow/rust belt.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 334
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From: new jersey
with out the factory tow pack the fuse is 15 amps. the added power draw is just enough in some cases to blow the fuse, another man also made a good point they do some times just go.
in a case such as yours i would go to a parts store and get the new slow blow types some gm's use or go up to a 20 amp fuse no higher thou that will be enough .
captchas
LEVEL10 power phone tech.
in a case such as yours i would go to a parts store and get the new slow blow types some gm's use or go up to a 20 amp fuse no higher thou that will be enough .
captchas
LEVEL10 power phone tech.
