Hi All,

My 93 Aerostar w/3.0 problem started yesterday. Owned for about 7 months with 161k on body and roughly 70-75k on new engine. Has been running great since, average 20 mpg.Yesterday check engine light came on and off a few times and noticed a slight loss of power. This morning drove daughter to school (20 mi one way) seemed fine on the way there but the drive home had hard time going up small hills and what seems to feel like misfiring, purging feel. Almost stalls at stop lights and I noticed once at a stop the volt gauge jumping back and forth. I am going to attempt a tune up tomorrow, don't know when last one was , hopefully it will go allright. Noticed from other posts that the O2 sensor may cause this type of problem. Where on a 3.0 is this located? What else might cause this problem?

Thanks

 

Run the codes, throwing parts at it is costly, without knowing what the problem is. Alot of parts houses will do this for free.

 

Saw a post to run a test w/ a paper clip but can't pull up the picture to show the two plugs mounted on passenger side firewall. Cap says EEC test on it. I looked all around but can't find it. Can anyone be more specific on where to look.

 

Took off the engine cover to take a look for what i'm in for to do tune up. I found the center wire from cap had worn thru from rubbing on shield and one other starting to wear. Made a mess of the heat shield under cover (charred and black) . I'm sure that would cause some of the problems I am having. The tune up looks like a heck of a job.

 

Hi Melaero

Welcome to our FTE forum

The EEC connector is mounted approximately above the power steering pump, on the firewall.

 

and how to read their cods click

i hate the key word advertising on this site

plug replacement is easy with 3/8" drive plug socket with u joint built into top, several long extensions 18" 12"
use silicone dielectric grease in plug wire boots and dab of antiseize grease on plug threads

 

Here is another link below, but if you had coil and plug wire burn, I would replace cap, rotor, and plug wires first. Bertha66 said it best, check codes before spending $$$.

http://www.thorssell.net/hbook/eectest.html

 

The tune-up is not as bad as it looks. You'll need a spark plug socket and a plug wire puller. Use a little anti-seize on the plug threads. Use a short pice of rubber hose over the end of the plugs to start them without cross-threading. Stay with Ford plugs and wires. The first time is a learning experience, but after that it isn't bad at all.

 

Did tune up, took 4 hours, 1 beer and no skinned knuckles. Not as bad as I thought it would be. Hardest one was the back one on pass side, had to get it from underneath . Seems to have fixed the problem, runs normal again and a definate feel of more power. Thanks for all the suggestions.

 

Glad to hear your up and runnin!

 

glad to here you got the old girl going

disconnect the -neg. batt. lead for 5 minutes so the computer ECU relearns correct parameters no that plugs wire etc are working correctly
don't want to waste that expensive going up in price gasogold

 

This is the strangest thing. aftre tune up, driving around town it seems to run preety good now check oil light comes on. But when I drive to the school (20 miles away) it seem to run good but about a quarter mile befor the school is a long hill, but not very steep. Just before the top is when it seems to lose power and start stuttering. It does this all the way back and when I stop it seems it's ready to stall and volt meter jumps back and forth. After sitting in driveway a hour or two it seems to run halfway decent again. Tried checking codes w/ paperclip and the only one that seemed to come up with is 33, which relates to the ECR valve. From what I have found the 93 does not have one. Any suggestions. Also check oil light stays on now, oil changed 150 mi ago.

 

hope for some suggestions from previous post

 

recheck codes KOEO and KOER

run the KOER test while the problem is occuring...may not be a required to store to KAM code

intermittent sensor or IAC?
i would suspect the IAT or ECT

any pinging/preignition on the hill?
vacuum leak, line or manifold.....carbon buildup


Continuous Monitor Diagnostic Test Mode (Wiggle Test)


Special Note:

l The technician can ATTEMPT to re-create and detect an intermittent fault using the Continuous Monitor DTM (Wiggle Test) procedures.


Key On Engine Off Wiggle Test Procedure

1. Hook up a STAR Tester, VOM or Scan Tool.

2. Turn the ignition key to the ON position.

3. For STAR Tester or VOM, activate, deactivate and reactivate Self-Test. You are now in the Continuous Monitor Diagnostic Test Mode (DTM). For Scan Tool, enter DTM, then enter wiggle DTM.

4. Tap, move, and wiggle the suspect sensor and/or harness. When a fault is detected, a Continuous Memory DTC will be stored in memory. This will be indicated as follows depending on the type of equipment being used:

l STAR Tester: Red LED lights and/or continuous tone.

l Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL): Lights

l VOM: Needle Sweep

l Transmission Control Indicator Lamp (TCIL)

l Message Center (Continental Only)

l Scan Tool: Continuous Tone


Engine Running Wiggle Test Procedure


Special Note:

l The Engine Running Wiggle Test may be activated any time the engine is running.

1. Hook up a STAR Tester, VOM or Scan Tool as shown.

2. Key off.

3. Start the engine.

4. For STAR Tester or VOM, activate Self-Test, deactivate and reactivate Self-Test. DO NOT shut the engine off. You are now in the Engine Running Continuous Monitor DTM. For Scan Tool, enter DTM, then enter wiggle DTM.

5. Tap, move, and wiggle the suspect sensor and/or harness or drive the vehicle. When a fault is detected, a Continuous Memory DTC will be stored in memory. This will be indicated as follows depending on the type of equipment being used:

l STAR Tester: Red LED lights and/or continuous tone.

l Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL): Lights

l VOM: Needle Sweep

l Transmission Control Indicator Lamp (TCIL)

l Message Center (Continental Only)

l Scan Tool: Beeps


How to Clear the Continuous Memory

NOTE:
Do not disconnect battery to clear Continuous Memory. This will erase the Keep Alive Memory (KAM) information which may cause a driveability concern.

1. Run the Key On Engine Off Self-Test.

2. When the DTC's begin to be displayed, deactivate Self-Test:

-- STAR Tester: Unlatching the center button (up position).

-- All others: Remove the jumper wire from between Self-Test Input (STI) connector and the Signal Return Pin of the DLC.

-- Scan Tool: Pushing the STOP button.

3. Continuous Memory will be erased in the PCM.


How to Clear Keep Alive Memory (KAM)

The PCM stores information about vehicle operating conditions and uses this information to compensate for component tolerances. When an emission related component is replaced, Keep Alive Memory (KAM) should be cleared to erase the information stored by the PCM from the original component.

To clear KAM: Disconnect the negative side of the battery for a minimum of five minutes.

After KAM has been cleared, the vehicle may exhibit certain driveability concerns. It will be necessary to drive the vehicle 10 miles or more to allow the processor to relearn values for optimum driveability and performance. (Distance is dependent on the vehicle application.)


Output State Diagnostic Test Mode (DTM)

The Output State DTM aids in servicing output actuators associated with the EEC system. It enables the technician to energize and de-energize most of the system output actuators on command. This DTM is entered after all DTC's have been received from Key On Engine Off and Continuous Testing. At this time, leave Self-Test activated and depress the throttle. Each time the throttle is depressed the output actuators will change state from energized to de-energized or from de-energized to energized.

1. Enter Self-Test.

2. DTC Output Ends.

3. Do Brief WOT.

4. EEC Output To Actuators Energized.

5. Do Brief WOT.

6. EEC Output To Actuators De-Energized.

7. For vehicles with LFC and HFC circuits:
To cycle the LFC and HFC outputs after code output ends, depress and hold throttle. For LFC, wait until the MIL flashes once (10 seconds). For HFC, wait until MIL flashes twice (15 seconds). Release throttle. The LFC or HFC output is now on (to cycle output off, depress and release throttle).